Black Shim Brass Anchor www.shipsofscale.com Ships Rigging

OcCre 1:90 Santisima Trinidad Build Log   page 02





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III. DECK PLANKING

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January 16, 2009

As seen in the image, it demonstrates a method I choose to simulate precut planking lengths. I just use a pencil to make a light mark across the deck and then alternating planks, I will use a knife to cut into the planking to simulate the planking lengths. I am cutting almost all the way threw the plank. I am not sure if anyone else uses this technique, but it does save a lot of time and frustration of precutting decking planks. I had read that decking planks are from 16 feet up to 25 feet. I think I made mine 25 feet. Therefore (I hope that I do not get into trouble doing this math and especially not used to Metric, but here it goes)

25 feet x 12 inches = 300 inches 300 inches/(90 scale) = ~3.33inches each plank

7.62 meters x 1000 = 7620 mm 7620mm/(90 scale) = ~84.66mm

Deck Cutting 01

Deck Cutting





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January 16, 2009

There is some research that dictates that either a 60—40—20 lengths are used, or either a 50-50 cut pattern is used. I wanted to use the 60—40—20 ratio cut pattern, but I had already started. Based on other builders of this project, I noticed a 50—50 ratio. It wasn´t until I found some plans that shows the other mentioned.
The purpose of this image is only to show how I choose to cut the planking boards (no matter what arrangement) after the entire plank from Bow to Stern has been glued and laid, instead of cutting each plank individually and "then" gluing them down. I was demonstrating an efficient method.

Lower Deck 01

Lower Deck





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January 19, 2009

I finally have the Main Deck Planking completed with one coat of Satin Polyurethane, then sanded with 150, then lightly with 400 grit to finish.

Some things to take note of:
1) Some planks had to be removed- too rough of edges.
2) I used pencil for caulking only on one side.
3) I used a dremel tool to make treenails with .47mm or .018¨ bit. Sorry, do not know the # size. Each treenail hole was prepared with a sharp scriber so that bit would not "wander" around.
4) There are no planks laid individually. One full length strip was used, then I used an xacto blade to score or mark off the deck to simulate where the planks butt up against each other.
5) Since I started with the 50-50 ratio of laying planks, I had to stick with those values. Wish I had known earlier about the 60-40-20, but that is ok. The Deck will be busy with cannons, rigging, ect.
6) I think that I am going to stain those Bulwark post with either walnut stain or Red. I have not decided yet.

Deck 01

Deck 01


Deck 02

Deck 02


Deck 03

Deck 03


Deck 04

Deck 04


Deck 05

Deck 05





IV. CANNON FITMENT

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January 31, 2009

Ok Friends,
I have a problem that I am faced with. It is the dreaded cannon problem. I am getting frustrated with my attempts to find a solution. I have already spent about $100 USD on sample cannons, first from Bluejacket and now I ordered some samples from Model Expo.
It was requested of me to post the images of the Bluejacket cannons that I received yesterday, but I have not done so. The cannons are ok. There is nothing wrong with them per usage, but as far as putting them to use on my project, I might have a problem. First of all, all the cannons, carronades, carriages that I bought from BJ are of some type of whitish metal. I guess it must be britannia metal, not sure. But BJ, if I remember, does not specify on their website store about this. I am after wooden carriages and brass cannons carronades. BJ´s also do not have any rigging ring bolts on the carriages either. And besides, the cannons are not brass !!

My requirements:
1) Find BRASS cannons that match the cannons that came with kit.
2) Find carriages that have the rigging ring bolts added to it.
3) If I can not find a match, then I would then need to replace all upper deck cannons. Then those would not match the other lower deck cannons.

My dilemma remains at just building the kit as per instructions and not add cannons to the lower deck. Maybe the designers of this kit thought that the cannons for lower waist deck would not be seen from above, so they just used a false cannon instead. I was slightly disappointed when I saw that the kit did not include waist deck cannons. Even if I scratch build my own carriages, I would have to buy upper deck cannons to match the lower ones. I guess I am being too picky about things. I will wait and see what the Model Expo Cannons carriages look like. They have provisions for the ring bolts. I guess I could drill holes for the ring bolts to the kits carriages.





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January 24, 2009

This is my Cannon update of which I plan not to use the cannons supplied with the OcCre kit. There is nothing wrong with the kits version, so why am I doing this. It all started with the idea that Fam and Charles gave me to modify the kit to "add" cannons to the waist deck.
So, it is with their inspiration I took the task of finding the cannons for myself. The units from Bluejacket are fine and very well detailed, but simply was not my choice.
Then I decided to order a variety from Model Shipways. I still have some on back order and hope to get those in as well. I will do an up date on that too. I think that I am overall satisfied with the 20mm size. The bore will also come close to matching the false cannons on the other levels (sorry, can´t think of what deck number that is). I will take parts and pieces to make the carronades. Once I decide what I want to do, then I am going to have to be committed to purchasing the cannons from Model Expo. I hope that they do not change styles on my in the meantime !!
So anyway, here is the documentation for what I have so far.

Sample Cannon 01

Sample Cannon 01


Sample Cannon 02

Sample Cannon 02


Sample Cannon 03

Sample Cannon 03


Sample Cannon 04

Sample Cannon 04





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January 24, 2009

This is the same one except painted and I added my own trucks, (tooth pick for the axle, and 1/8¨ dowel for the wheels). The original wheels are of brass. Seems a little too much for what I want. So I made my own wheels and kept the carriage and cannon. The paint is Model Master #4228 Anti—fouling Red and American Walnut stain for the wheels. The whole time I am doing this I am thinking why do us modelers go threw this much just to be happy with something. Now, once I decide what I want, it is a matter of ordering a bunch from ME and start making a bunch of wheels and axles.

Sample Cannon 05

Sample Cannon 05





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January 25, 2009

The main reason that I did not want to use the given cannon carriage that came with the kit, they do not have any rigging rings. The directions only want you to pass a breaching line and that is all. It is representative instead of accuracy I think that OcCre was after.





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January 25, 2009

Things like the cannon carriage become so tiny of scale, it becomes almost impossible to fully accurately "within reason" to build something that small with all features like the hooks. Things at this point become "representative". At this point, you have to put things in proper perspective and put a hook or cannon as close to the size relative to what you are building. I don´t think that I can make a hook that would be finite accurate within reason on such a tiny object. As a matter of fact, this whole short post is on dealing with scale accuracy and what the Model Manufactures gives us are sometimes not accurate and to the trained eye, those pieces would need to be changed. However, I am not a historian nor a naval historian. Sometime parts become relative within scale and appearance to please the wide range of modelers. The whole idea of what started all of this is that I wanted to put cannons on the third (waist) deck. The model calls for false cannons glued to side of ship. So, if I follow the instructions, I would not have a headache !!!





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January 25, 2009

I have decided that I am going to keep this one. It is the original kit version cannon and carriage. I then painted it Anti-foul red as previously mentioned. I then added some rigging rings that I scratch built out of some soft brass wire and then painted them black. I left the wheels the natural bronze color. I then lightly sanded the edge of the wheels to reveal the axles.
I also used the 3/32¨ (2.5mm) Single Walnut Block from Model Shipways that I had laying around. As far as the third deck, I think that I am going to abandon the idea of adding cannons to this third or waist deck. I would rather place all my energy on the main deck. I will scratch build my own carronades for the main deck as well. I have some carronades that got back ordered from ME that I am waiting on. I appreciate everyone´s patience. I know that some said to themselves that I wish that Donnie would hurry up and decide what he wants to do because he is driving us crazy !!!

Sample Cannon 06

Sample Cannon 06


Sample Cannon 07

Sample Cannon 07





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January 27, 2009

I have made a decision. I am not going to put full cannons carriages of any type on the Third (waist) deck.

1) I want to focus my energy on the main deck detailing the cannons there.
2) I decided to use the original cannons carriages that came with kit.
3) I am going to paint the kit carriages with a dark red and use original cannons.
4) I am going to add the ring-bolts to the kit carriages along with 2.5mm (3/32¨) walnut single blocks.
5) I might deviate and put some howitzers on main deck.

I have already made the decision last night and then I glued the main deck onto frame using TiteBond II glue. I did not use Cynoacrylate because I needed the time for the parts to be positioned and added weights to the main deck to hold it in place for about 12 hours. I believe that I will be happy with my decision. Why the decision? Well, I know what my limits are I guess. I would rather focus my energy on the main deck. I am bracing myself for a lot of tedious work on the cannon modification.





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