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Santisima Trinidad
Build Log |
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VI. UPPER BULWARKS 2nd Row
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February 13, 2009 |
This is the Prep work to install the next Bulwark. The
strip of wood (Bulwark) does look darker because I have brushed water on it. The end at the head was soaked in water for
a few minutes. I used the Planking Clamps to temp. secure Bulwark until wood dries. So far I have used Titebond II for
the entire hull. The CA Glue just dries too fast and can not get items positioned in time. Therefore it seems that I am
going to use Titebond to build most of the rest of the hull. I also will show a picture of some additional supports that
I wanted to add between the Bulkhead and right under the deck. I found that the Bulwark wanted to have a natural sag between
the Bulkheads, so therefore I decided to add some more support. This is not shown in the image below. I will have to detail
this later in another picture. I have yet to add the Gun Port false covers. The Gun Port false covers are going to rest on
top of some of the bulkheads and therefore I will have to make cutouts in a few places. This is normal as the instructions
mention this. I am not saying this is a bad design. I am however saying that at least the instructions acknowledge this
fact. I will demo this part in another picture. I was finally able to get my camera setting to show "in focus"
within reason from the front of image to rear. Just to let some know that are struggling with this, my manual settings on
my camera was f11 and 1/2 of a second and using timer mode so as not to shake camera at that "slow" of a shutter
speed. With f11 (f Stop 11) you are letting the camera lens close down to a tiny pinpoint of an opening.
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Hull 07
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February 16, 2009 |
False Cannon Supports
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False Cannon 01
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February 17, 2009 |
Arrg !!
Even more false Cannon Support covers added to back of Bulwark. I think I lost count at about 108 of these. I used CA on
one of these and found out real quick that this was not going to happen like I want. The CA (even the thicker stuff) would
run underneath the cover and make a mess - no matter how careful I was. So I resorted to Titebond I this time. The Titebond
I will settle down and not look so thick. It will dry and shrink up and become somewhat translucent to the point that you
can not hardly tell.
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False Cannon 02
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False Cannon 03
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VII. UPPER BULWARDS 3rd & 4th ROW
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February 21, 2009 |
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Hull Shim
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February 22, 2009 |
Well, here is the final results before I glue in the last Bulwark.
As you can see the notches and cutouts for the Bulwarks and added shims.
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Hull 08
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Hull 09
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February 24, 2009 |
I have finally completed the Bulwarks installation. Now is the time
to take a break and study on Planking the lower hull to see how that is going to turn out. I will have to buy a few battens and start
measuring for the strakes. So far, I have managed to stay away from any wood putty or wood filler. Besides the planks would have covered
that up anyway.
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Upper Hull 01
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Upper Hull 02
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Upper Hull 03
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Upper Hull 04
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Upper Hull 05
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Upper Hull 06
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Upper Hull 07
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VIII. CANNON RING BOLTS
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March 05, 2009 |
Installed some Ring Bolts and started on the side planking. The Ring Bolts go all the way thru the Bulwarks. I will then
cut off the excess.
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Ring Bolts
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Ring Bolts
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Upper Hull
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March 07, 2009 |
The Ring Bolts so far are all hand made. I bought some 24(?) gauge - can't remember right now because I don't have that
sitting in front of me at the moment. But, I used a simple technique of a small drill locked in a vise and hand wrapped
the wire around it. Put a coat of gray primer and then flat black enamel. The holes were pre-drilled. The other end will
be snipped of of course.
I have got the Ring Bolts done for Port and Starboard Bulwarks. I found a quicker way of doing the Ring Bolts per the
Admiral. I need to post the step process for every body. I have no excuse. I need to do this so that anybody needs Ring
Bolts, they can follow what I did if they want to. If you stay tuned, I will try to post the process. The image below
just shows how I leave enough length of the Ring Bolt to push threw the Bulwark. Only for manageability purposes. This way
I can grab the Ring Bolt shafts using a pair of needle nose pliers without getting my fingers on the Bolts.
I got frustrated because I could not find any black wire (well I could, but it was glossy). So, as lazy as I am, I chose
the opposite and made my own - painted with gray primer, then "enamel" flat black (both of which are Model Master
Paint). On the other side, I will use a pair of pliers to "pull" the shafts threw and bend the wire up against the other side of
the Bulwark. I put of drop of CA glue on the shaft side of the Bulwark. Clip the remaining wire and used a Diamond needle
file to file down the rough spur. Well, actually I lied just a tad - I will say that I used a dremel tool with emery
attachment (shame on me - I know) first, then I used the Diamond needle file to finish off the spur. If you do not have
any Diamond Coated Needle files then you are missing out. These are not like any other files I have used. They have a
"cutting" effect to wood / metal / brass that will take the material off quickly. I suggest highly to get them. They are
not expensive as mine were bought from Model Expo
"DIAMOND COATED NEEDLE FILE SET", 5PCS., 5-1/5¨ ITEM NUMBER: MT1003
Donnie
As always, I hope this post is helpful to some.
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Ring Bolts
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Ring Bolts
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