YQ Bluenose Ted R

Take a deep breath. Sit back, consider where the stress points are in the framework. Then when you proceed to remove the frames you won't transfer your own stress to the point of weakness in the structure. "The fault is not in our stars..." ;)
 
Take a deep breath. Sit back, consider where the stress points are in the framework. Then when you proceed to remove the frames you won't transfer your own stress to the point of weakness in the structure. "The fault is not in our stars..." ;)
I have been using CA glue for the frame attachment to the jig to get an instant location.
Is this not a good practice.
 
I too succumb easily to the guiles of the instant (gratification and adhesion:rolleyes:) In both cases the slower-well considered approach allows for reversibility in case the results don't deliver what was intended, or worse, what was un-intended.Cautious
 
I've got the jig sanded down and checked all of the frames.
They we all either perfect or almost perfect.
I'm going to do a dry assembly concentrating on the alignment of the load bearing beams line. Last time I concentrated on the fit at the keel. If all works out great I will glue it up.17151150057682815089998599116835.jpg17151150306877517927227347415967.jpg
 
Here's the first twenty frames in place. Load beam bearing line is great. The notch is a little loose at the keel on a few of them. Please look at the frame keel junction on frame twenty.View attachment 446249View attachment 446250View attachment 446251
First of all, my respect for your perseverance in getting everything right, Ted.
I suspect that your attention is now too focused on the line of the notches for the bearing beams.
The overall line of the points of the underside of the frames deviates further and further from the rabbet in the keel. Also with large gaps between the frames and the keel. You must avoid the latter because then you lose the structural strength. They can all be placed deeper in the recesses, while the line of the notches for the bearing beams remains (almost) smooth.
It is not ‘the one thing or then other’ but it’s both-and.
Regards, Peter
 
Once again if every frame is properly constructed and in its proper location while at the same time properly seated in the correct notches (which by the way you have not met those requirements based on the last set of photos, I see gaps all over the place), you will not even have to worry about curvature, it will come automatically. The junction at #20, 19,18, especially 17 looks way out of tolerance. I hope this is a dry fit and as you know if just one notch is held up or not seated it will keep adjacent keel rib notches from fitting as well. Hope this helps.
 
First of all, my respect for your perseverance in getting everything right, Ted.
I suspect that your attention is now too focused on the line of the notches for the bearing beams.
The overall line of the points of the underside of the frames deviates further and further from the rabbet in the keel. Also with large gaps between the frames and the keel. You must avoid the latter because then you lose the structural strength. They can all be placed deeper in the recesses, while the line of the notches for the bearing beams remains (almost) smooth.
It is not ‘the one thing or then other’ but it’s both-and.
Regards, Peter
Thank you, I went back and moved frame one down some and the really helped it. Today I will dry fit all the frames and see the results.
Ted
 
Once again if every frame is properly constructed and in its proper location while at the same time properly seated in the correct notches (which by the way you have not met those requirements based on the last set of photos, I see gaps all over the place), you will not even have to worry about curvature, it will come automatically. The junction at #20, 19,18, especially 17 looks way out of tolerance. I hope this is a dry fit and as you know if just one notch is held up or not seated it will keep adjacent keel rib notches from fitting as well. Hope this helps.
Yes this is a dry fit. I adjusted frame one and all is looking perfect for mating of the frames and curvature up to frame twenty. I'll repost pictures when I get the remainder of the frames dryfitted.
 
By the looks of it, your frames are sitting as good as you can possibly get them; frames close to the rabbet line, my guess this is as good as you can get them, firmly sitting against the keel(?). The notches appear to line up way better than they were.
In all, based on these pictures, a definite improvement.
 
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