Band Saw or Scroll Saw?

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I'm sure it's an age old question, but which one do you think is better and why?
Or, maybe something else altogether !
I've already got a table saw. :)

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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I just can comment that a Proxxon scrawl saw I own is a piece of bad tool. It is not possible to cut a straight line with it.
 
I have a band-saw which I use for most everything model-wise, and a scroll saw for the stuff too tight for the band-saw and when cutting from within a hole, like doughnut shaped things. If I had to choose, I'd keep the band-saw, but I do other stuff besides models, so that's not really an unbiased opinion. I also have coping and jeweler's saws that can take the place of the scroll saw in a pinch.

My scroll-saw was $5 at a yard sale a decade or so ago, and is pretty basic. One of those $500+ jobs can probably do surgical work, or maybe just cost you $500.

lath_sander_saw_bench01.jpg
 
It depends

It depends, which kind of cuts you want to do

I just can comment that a Proxxon scrawl saw I own is a piece of bad tool. It is not possible to cut a straight line with it.
A scroll saw is the besz if you have to cut out f.e. an element of a frame (POF) - the blade of a scroll saw is not very big / long (only one or two mm in cross section), so you are able to make very small curves - but off course this is an disadvantage to make straight cuts
I have a Hegnar scroll saw and absolutely happy with it for these works, for which they are designed

on minute 13 you can see what I mean - with a bandsaw more or less not possible

A band saw blade with a band width ( length of up to 5 or 8mm is off course much more able to make straight cuts (but not really small curves)


a little bit a mix is the Pegas band saw with very thin blade - here curves are possible - therefore she is named sometimes "scroll-band-saw" - but I think thick boards will be problematik


 
Because the band saw always goes in one direction I think it would be easier to control. The "up" stroke on a scroll saw sometimes messes me up and parts get away from me. I have no way to properly compare them as my band saw has a 1/2" blade but if you could get a small band saw with a very narrow blade I think it may be nicer to use than a scroll saw. Quieter too. Scroll saws dull quickly because you are only using about an inch of the blade. Band saws use the entire length of the blade. Sawing a straight line is more of the result of having a wider blade than anything else. If you have a narrow blade on either saw you're not going to be able to cut a straight line. If I had to do it again and I could find a decent small band saw with a deep throat, I would go with that rather than the scroll saw.
Edit- any small band saws I've seen have been crap so there's that too :)
 
I'm sure it's an age old question, but which one do you think is better and why?
Or, maybe something else altogether !
I've already got a table saw. :)

Thanks,
Jeff
They're two different tools/machines altogether. Sure you can cut curves with both, but the scroll saw might be best for model work because of its ability to handle small or fine work. And there are a lot of different blades for scroll saws. The bandsaw, has its uses where a scroll saw would never be able to accomplish the same work. Bigger materials, thicker stock - and the one thing a bandsaw can do is resaw lumber into thin stock or even veneers. I have both. I use both. Careful consideration as to your job at hand will help if you're needing to make a choice.
 
They're two different tools/machines altogether. Sure you can cut curves with both, but the scroll saw might be best for model work because of its ability to handle small or fine work. And there are a lot of different blades for scroll saws. The bandsaw, has its uses where a scroll saw would never be able to accomplish the same work. Bigger materials, thicker stock - and the one thing a bandsaw can do is resaw lumber into thin stock or even veneers. I have both. I use both. Careful consideration as to your job at hand will help if you're needing to make a choice.
I agree with Phil. They are two different machines and yes they both cut wood. You have to decide what you're going to cut and how best to accomplish the task. I too have both and use them both.
 
I prefer the bandsaw over the scroll saw for a variety of reasons. Chief of which is when cutting small parts and thin veneers, the oscillating blade of a scroll saw moving upward can lift the part off the table if it catches the wood, causing it to split or tear instead of cut, and making it difficult to control the part position. The band saw moves in a continuous, predictable downward motion, allowing much more control and confidence. It can cut curves almost as sharp as a scroll saw having a narrower blade, but not quite, since most band saw blades are wider. But for cutting long planks, ripping thin wood into strips, the band saw works better. Most people use a table saw for this.
 
Depending on your planned usage, one might consider building a simple scroll saw, such as shown in attached document. I saw a very old scroll saw in an antique store and I sketched a drawing of it so that I could build one. It cuts very well and it can be motor driven, but I stayed with the hand-crank operation.
It's biggest drawback was lack of a tilt adjustment, but that could be added if desired. Eventually, I gave the scroll saw to a friend of mine when I found a bargin on a commercial built scroll saw. His son is still using the one I built.
Happy Modeling,
Steven
 

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I find I need both. I need the band saw for longer straighter cuts, and for thicker material. I need the scroll saw for tight radius cutting.

Unfortunately, my band saw seems to have lived its lifetime. It is a two-wheel one, and the supposed adjustable upper wheel mount will not hold adjustment and throws of the blade. Looking for new or used replacement.
 
If you had to choose between one or the other I would get a band saw with a 1/4 inch fine tooth blade. This will cut close radii curves and also handle basic cuts for most parts needed for your model. A scroll saw would be advantageous if all you want to do is very fine cuts on small curved parts.
 
If you had to choose between one or the other I would get a band saw with a 1/4 inch fine tooth blade. This will cut close radii curves and also handle basic cuts for most parts needed for your model. A scroll saw would be advantageous if all you want to do is very fine cuts on small curved parts.
One often overlooked ability of the scroll saw is it's ability to cut inside cuts. Requiring a hole or two be drilled and the blade inserted through. I like the bandsaw for resawing.
 
My answer is, BOTH, depending. Fact is there is certain work they can both do like gentile curves and pretty much cross cutting (across the grain) most woods. So for most work it's your preference. And the band saw is more flexible by changing blades as band saw blade with and tooth count (TPI) will allow you more flexibility and as someone already stated is better for cutting straight lines because of blade width.

Some things can only be done by one or the other. Small delicate work with tight curves can only be done with a scroll saw. If you want to "rip" straight thin pieces of wood along the grain over a significant length of board, the band saw is your tool. Wide blade, low TPI and a fence is the only way to achieve consistent cuts.

I use both, as I do delicate 1st cuts for carvings. But I can see where most modelers would have a band saw only. If I were forced to make a choice, it would be a band saw as it can perform more types of jobs than the scroll saw can.
 
I prefer the bandsaw over the scroll saw for a variety of reasons. Chief of which is when cutting small parts and thin veneers, the oscillating blade of a scroll saw moving upward can lift the part off the table if it catches the wood, causing it to split or tear instead of cut, and making it difficult to control the part position. The band saw moves in a continuous, predictable downward motion, allowing much more control and confidence. It can cut curves almost as sharp as a scroll saw having a narrower blade, but not quite, since most band saw blades are wider. But for cutting long planks, ripping thin wood into strips, the band saw works better. Most people use a table saw for this.
There is a very easy solution to this problem. You make a veneer sandwich with the outside pieces (the bread) a few mms thick and your veneer (the bologna) in the middle. The outside pieces allow you to steady the veneer with minimum "hopping". Someone shared this with me from this very forum and it works well for cutting curves on veneers. When working with veneers, I always choose a wood with a tight grain. Anything with a looser grain provides "catches" that will cause the blade to follow the grain rather than your guide line, when cutting along the grain.
 
I have both and find myself using the bandsaw much more frequently. I also agree with Kurt (@DARIVS ARCHITECTVS) Regarding wood splitting on the upstroke of the scroll saw. I fitted the bandsaw with a 1/8” blade and a zero clearance insert for small tight corners. I really only use the scroll saw for interior cuts and use a 360° blade.
 
I have both, and could not get along with just one or the other. I use a lot of 1/64th and 1/32 bass plywood on my ships. When doing any cuts with the scroll saw I draw the required part on the wood, and cover it on both sides with masking tape that I can see through to follow the line. I never have any problem with the blade chipping the thin ply.
 
I have both, and could not get along with just one or the other. I use a lot of 1/64th and 1/32 bass plywood on my ships. When doing any cuts with the scroll saw I draw the required part on the wood, and cover it on both sides with masking tape that I can see through to follow the line. I never have any problem with the blade chipping the thin ply.
And do not underestimate safety. Trying to cut thin, small pieces on a bandsaw can be very problematic with the closeness of fingers to blades. I'm not advocating one saw over another - I use both. But keeping your fingers out of the way on tight cuts can be daunting for some!
 
It is quite possible that the upper wheel ( perhaps the lower wheel) just needs a new ball bearing. The bearings tend to wobble and possibly come loose, as they age and get used. I bought replacement bearings from VXB in California. There are many other bearing companies around the world. Just read the numbers for each size/type of bearing you choose to replace and call the company.
I have replaced bearings in a Craftsman Lathe, my band saw and my drill press and each time the performance improved nicely!
Happy Modeling
Steven
 
For myself and for fine wood working and small radius cutting, a scroll saw would be my choice. I had a small Craftsman band saw that had little use so it went down the road to a new owner. Even that ~1/4" wide blade wouldn't cut the very small radii. If I need a very thin, straight cut, my 10" JET table saw with the precision Delta fence works great down to about 1/32nd inch as long as assemble has been dial indicator "tuned" up.

Of course if money and floor space are of no consequence, both saw types are the best bet along with a table saw:)
 
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