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woodworkers drawplate substitute to Byrne's

Bonjour Michel
Did you contact Donna Byrnes to see if they are in stock? She is not selling machines right now, but maybe drawplates are still available
Allan
 
Hi, there is a good substitue to the Byrne's Drawplate ? M. Byrne's passaway and trying to find trunneling tool. Thank.
Michel
I would contact them
The drawplate is very good, in my opinion the best on the market for the use we need - wooden treenails
Often other juweliers drawplates are not working well because these are designed to reduce the thickness of silver (or other metals) wire, with pushing from the other side through the holes, so more pressing together and not cutting.
the edges of the holes are often not sharp enough to cut the wood.....
 
I made an atemps to contact Mrs Donna Byrnes. Not easy, on Edge it is impossible for me to used the form for contact on web their site. I was more succesful, may be ??? on Chrome, but some weird thing happen during the process. When I will have de answer about the material used for the drawplate, I will put the answer here.
 
I made an atemps to contact Mrs Donna Byrnes. Not easy, on Edge it is impossible for me to used the form for contact on web their site. I was more succesful, may be ??? on Chrome, but some weird thing happen during the process. When I will have de answer about the material used for the drawplate, I will put the answer here.
I was overreading the question of material..... upps
Like @Bob Cleek already wrote - definitely
I guess in our membership we have several dozens of drawplates from Byrns - the best on the market and definitely stainless steel
and sharp
so no question of quality - the only question should be the availability - if available -> you should order one - it will last for your hole modeling life
 
if available -> you should order one - it will last for your hole modeling life
I would offer one caveat regarding the Byrnes drawplate: It's small. It's range of sizes run down to the near invisible. (You have to hold it up to a bright light bulb to be able to see the smallest of the holes on the Byrnes plate. Now, that's the sign of a very high quality drawplate, to be sure, but finding wood material that can be drawn down to such fine dimensions requires some sophistication in selecting the species to use. Many species aren't going to hold up to being shaved down to the thickness of a human hair or less! Additionally, I expect most will find a need for holes larger than can be drawn on the current Byrnes drawplate. Now that I hear Byrnes Model Machines is again starting up production, I'd suggest, if they are listening, that a draw plate offering diameters larger than the ones on the current draw plate would be a very welcome additon to their line.
 
I would offer one caveat regarding the Byrnes drawplate: It's small. It's range of sizes run down to the near invisible. (You have to hold it up to a bright light bulb to be able to see the smallest of the holes on the Byrnes plate. Now, that's the sign of a very high quality drawplate, to be sure, but finding wood material that can be drawn down to such fine dimensions requires some sophistication in selecting the species to use. Many species aren't going to hold up to being shaved down to the thickness of a human hair or less! Additionally, I expect most will find a need for holes larger than can be drawn on the current Byrnes drawplate. Now that I hear Byrnes Model Machines is again starting up production, I'd suggest, if they are listening, that a draw plate offering diameters larger than the ones on the current draw plate would be a very welcome additon to their line.
I'm with Bob on this one. The smallest holes are really unnecessary. And the room created by eliminating some of them should be used to include EVERY hole size diameter. Every once in a while a jump of two sizes is made - it is at these points that it becomes difficult to progress.

But to reiterate - in its current version this is the very finest drawplate of the half-dozen or so I have tried.
 

Not endorsing; in my experience MicroMark tools are often overpriced and sometimes sub-par. But sometimes they are good. Can always return it if not.
 
I purchased one from Donna a few months ago and received it in short order. It is stainless steel and well made, but I've had no luck at all trying to make and use treenails, but then that's me.
 
Hi, there is a good substitue to the Byrne's Drawplate ? M. Byrne's passaway and trying to find trunneling tool. Thank.
Michel
Lie Nielsen makes them in inch and millimeter sizes - but only down to about 3mm

 
Lie Nielsen makes them in inch and millimeter sizes - but only down to about 3mm

Thanks Van, IT is first Time ever I Heard about other brand for drawplate used for wood.
 

Not endorsing; in my experience MicroMark tools are often overpriced and sometimes sub-par. But sometimes they are good. Can always return it if not.
Over the years, I've come to the same conclusion. The price they're asking for the MicroMark drawplate is obscene, considering the questionable quality of it. It's a jeweler's drawplate, as well, for drawing wire thinner, not wood, although it's possible sometimes, depending upon the wood species to pull wood backwards through a wire drawplate. Good drawplates are surprisingly expensive. I'm not exactly sure why. (The best wire ones are made of tungsten steel.) I know of no drawplates for wood in small dimensions other than the Byrnes Model Machines one. There are many drawplates in various sizes and shapes available from the jewelry supply houses, but these are for drawing wire. Wire drawplates compress the workpiece, lengthening it overall as it's pulled through the hole. For this reason, the hole is conical, larger at one end and smaller at the intended dimension end with the wire being drawn through from the larger end and out the smaller one. Drawplates for wood shave the excess wood from the circumference of the workpiece as it is drawn in past the sharp edge of the drawplate and the hole sides are parallel. As far as I know, the industry leaves making drawplates for shaping wood to the woodworkers themselves.

You can make your own drawplate for wood by taking a suitably stiff piece of metal plate and drilling progressively sized holes in it. The back of the plate is then ground flat, creating a sharp edge at each hole. When the edges are worn, the plate can be laid on a perfectly flat abrasive surface (e.g. emery sheet taped to a table saw table) and honed flat.
 
I'm with Bob on this one. The smallest holes are really unnecessary.
I think this is a good one to agree to disagree. My Byrnes plate goes down to 0.016 which is good for treenails down to 3/4" at 1:64 scale. For the hull planking, with treenails of 1" to 2" the largest holes are fine. Finding a wood species as Bob mentions is another issue. I have found bamboo to work well depending on the species. Bamboo skewers can be split then run through the plate down to the smallest size. There are some tricks to using any plate but getting to 0.016 is readily doable. I have cheap plate with larger holes than on the Byrnes plate but at our most common scales it rarely sees the light of day. Just one more opinion :)
Allan
 
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