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Dust on Completed Models

DennisP

DennisP

Joined
Dec 23, 2024
Messages
116
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78

Having not long completed my first build, it now sits on a shelf in my Workshop / garage collecting dust.

I have seen many of you put a glass box around it, which then obviously stops the dust on the model, but for those of you who do not put your prize possession in a glass case, how do you get rid of the dust around all those delicate structures on the model as it will accumulate the inevitable dust.
 
If not building a glass case, I am sure, it is better to cover model with something like cellophane covers or fabric covers. Otherwise dust will accumulate. Cleaning model off dust is very tedious and time consuming process. I never tried but someone said one can use compressed air can as for computers if not afraid that some damage can occur. Then take some small cheap painting brushes and start going through all dusted parts.
 
Y.T. said:
If not building a glass case, I am sure, it is better to cover model with something like cellophane covers or fabric covers. Otherwise dust will accumulate. Cleaning model off dust is very tedious and time consuming process. I never tried but someone said one can use compressed air can as for computers if not afraid that some damage can occur. Then take some small cheap painting brushes and start going through all dusted parts.
Click to expand...

I’d be very wary of using a computer type compressed air can. It’d be like blasting the model with scaled hurricane Beaufort force 12 winds :).
 
How to prevent a model that's not in a case from getting dusty? Well, if you want to look at it, the honest answer is, "You don't." An uncovered model will inevitably accumulate dust and, even worse, all manner of air pollutants, airborne smoke and kitchen grease, and the rest. This destroys the model's appearance and promotes decay of finishes and rigging fibers and other types of deterioration.

When I have a model that comes into my possession without a case or requires being out of its case for long periods, I always keep such models covered with lightweight plastic bag material. I save the lightweight plastic bags that dry cleaners use to cover cleaned clothing. Cut and opened into flat sheets and joined with light clothes pins, they effectively prevent dust buildup on uncased models in my shop for work. Parenthetically, I would not consider spending time trying to effectively clean a filthy model that's been uncased for a long period unless it was something stupendously valuable that warranted conservation. Cleaning a cobwebby, dusty, tobacco smoke-stained model is tedious, miserable, nasty work that's best avoided.
 
I recently used my airbrush to gently blow dry dust (mostly sawdust) off a model as I loosened it with a soft small make-up brush. It helped and made a visible difference, but as Bob says, kitchen grease, human skin cells and other ‘dirty’ dust are quite tenacious.

I solved my problem by giving the model away to a neighbour on the condition that he would never ask me to clean or repair it. ROTF
 
the plastic bag idea is brilliant! but if the plastic bag settles on the ship, it may break parts n rigging.


which turned the bulb on in my head.... build a simple frame over the ship like you see temporary green houses use, then put the bag over the frame.

wa cha think?
problem solved?


edit... check this out?


www.ikea.com

ÅKERBÄR greenhouse, indoor/outdoor dark blue, 17 ¾" - IKEA

ÅKERBÄR greenhouse, indoor/outdoor dark blue, 17 ¾" Get ready for the growing season! The ÅKERBÄR series helps you fill your home with flowers, herbs and other plants. The low weight makes the products easy to move – even when there are plants in them.
www.ikea.com www.ikea.com
 
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Folks, thanks for all your ideas, most people that come to the house will never get to see the models, but I will. So, I like the idea of a small lightweight wooden frame, say something like balsawood and then cover it with the very thin lightweight clothes bags, but cut to fit the frame.
Brilliant idea, I like it.
Thanks guys for your input and ideas
 
Three are many trophy boxes available in hobby stores such as Michaels or Hobby Lobby. They are quite reasonable in price. The downside is that they do not come larger than baseball, helmet, or bat sizes. Here is an example of a 1/12 Mercury space capsule in a box designed to hold a sports helmet.
IMG_9447.jpeg
 
Actually, I've found that the plastic bags the dry cleaners use (here in the U.S., at least) are so lightweight as to pose negligible risk to the model if laid over it. However, I do have take care when moving the plastic film around on a model be careful not to pull in any way that would allow the plastic to catch on something and pull it. Building a framework is one alternative, but I've always found such frames to be awkward to handle, especially in larger sizes. With the frame, extreme care has to be exercised to lower the frame without hanging it up on protruding spars.

I've concluded over the years that the best option is a traditional glass case which opens in some fashion, such as easily removable sides, that allows the model mounted on a separate plinth to be slid out of the case. At present, I have a replica Admiralty Board model with a beautiful stand and case that's a fine piece of the cabinetmaker's art in itself. The problem is, it takes four, and preferably six healthy men to carefully lift the "box" glass case up off the model.
 
DennisP said:
Having not long completed my first build, it now sits on a shelf in my Workshop / garage collecting dust.

I have seen many of you put a glass box around it, which then obviously stops the dust on the model, but for those of you who do not put your prize possession in a glass case, how do you get rid of the dust around all those delicate structures on the model as it will accumulate the inevitable dust.
Click to expand...
The only way I know of is to use a can of compressed air and a small (dry) paintbrush.
 
RogerD said:
I’d be very wary of using a computer type compressed air can. It’d be like blasting the model with scaled hurricane Beaufort force 12 winds :).
Click to expand...
Roger, you can reduce "wind speed" by moving the can further & further away.
 
DennisP said:
Folks, thanks for all your ideas, most people that come to the house will never get to see the models, but I will. So, I like the idea of a small lightweight wooden frame, say something like balsawood and then cover it with the very thin lightweight clothes bags, but cut to fit the frame.
Brilliant idea, I like it.
Thanks guys for your input and ideas
Click to expand...
If you're going to go to all that trouble, why not just build a case? I build cases for all my large models and have developed a relatively easy system for doing so. I first buy 1/2" or 3/4" inexpensive pine boards from Lowes and have them cut them to the desired length. To decorate the base, I add 1" molding that I also buy from Lowe's and cut it to the proper lengths for the base. I glue and nail that to the base, with the top of the mold rising above the pine board. Then I stain and polyurethane the whole thing. For the top, order 1/4" acrylic sheets, cut to size from TAP or Professional Plastics for about $100. The size should exactly match the size of the pine board base. You need four sides and a top. Glue those together using an acrylic solvent. The top will then come down inside the molding and that's it. You have a permanent, attractive looking case for your model.
 
DFGINMIA said:
If you're going to go to all that trouble, why not just build a case? I build cases for all my large models and have developed a relatively easy system for doing so. I first buy 1/2" or 3/4" inexpensive pine boards from Lowes and have them cut them to the desired length. To decorate the base, I add 1" molding that I also buy from Lowe's and cut it to the proper lengths for the base. I glue and nail that to the base, with the top of the mold rising above the pine board. Then I stain and polyurethane the whole thing. For the top, order 1/4" acrylic sheets, cut to size from TAP or Professional Plastics for about $100. The size should exactly match the size of the pine board base. You need four sides and a top. Glue those together using an acrylic solvent. The top will then come down inside the molding and that's it. You have a permanent, attractive looking case for your model.
Click to expand...
Very close to what I did here. Used 2 boards for the base, the top one a 1/4 inch smaller all around, to allow the glass to fit between the base & molding.

DSCN0780.JPG
 
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DennisP said:
Having not long completed my first build, it now sits on a shelf in my Workshop / garage collecting dust.

I have seen many of you put a glass box around it, which then obviously stops the dust on the model, but for those of you who do not put your prize possession in a glass case, how do you get rid of the dust around all those delicate structures on the model as it will accumulate the inevitable dust.
Click to expand...
I'd say first- do not use the compressed air in a can. It will blow stuff all over the place. I use a soft brush to 'stir' the dust and blow it away. I also use a moistened Q-Tip on decks and yards. I find this keeps the dust problem under control - but you will never be able to get rid of all the dust, except by putting it in a case.
 
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