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Display cases

Lots of good advice in this discussion and I have only two tidbits to add. I put a molding around the base that is higher than the base itself so the case will fit inside without the need for a router as shown in the below photo. Also, if case cost is a big factor for you, select a modeling project that will fit inside one of the pre-made cases from a hobby store or an aquarium.IMG_2466.jpeg
 
I agree, if you can build a ship you can build a case. I have found companies that make the legs for me. I build a nice base out of various wood types. Stain and varathane.
Acrylic turned out easier than I thought. I used some old scrap blocks and cut grooves into them so I could set my 4 sides of acrylic up. Used to clamp to hood it all in place and the. WeldOne.

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Quint said:
I've built plexiglass and wood frame cases, out of necessity. Not going to pay the big bucks! As someone noted, if you can build a ship model, with some practice and the right tools you can build cases. Basic tools, table saw, router/table, compound miter, orbital sander. I bought all my tools used, Facebook Marketplace, I've even bought tools from Pawn Shops. Bought "new" saw blades and router bits. You can use the table saw with correct blade to cut plexiglass. Thanks, YouTube!

I paid $30 for the router and router table combo, $80 for the 10" table saw, $75 for a 10" compound miter saw. All name brand name. Found a local woodworker shop, bought some maple, walnut and cherry wood. Cheaper than buying stock wood from a big box store.

Obviously, if you're not familiar with working with these tools the process can seem intimidating. Practice using the tools with some scrap, follow safety precautions, wear safety glasses and relax. You can get a lot of self-satisfaction with these projects.

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Very nice. I did the same thing with a used router that I affixed to a cheap router table and used a miter saw to trim boards. I found places to get acrylic sheets cut to spec very inexpensively and more precisely than I could do myself. Altogether way cheaper than having them built. Also, shipping costs are exorbitant.
 
Interesting. Especially the prices you quote. Glass, even acrylic, seems way more cost than in the UK
For my two models, Endeavour and Victory, I shopped around local glass suppliers, explained what I wanted and what it was for and they supplied me with glass panels to exact size. I constructed the case using silicon gel (as used for aquarium cases) as jointing on all attaching edges . Then I purchased some right-angle-section wood strips, cut to suit and stained, and then glued them on all the edges to hide the silicon joints. The base was formed from an old wardrobe door stored in my garage (I knew it would come in useful one day) with felt PVA'd onto the upper surface and a small wooden strip (using surplus walnut strips supplied in the kit) glued all around inside the base for the glass to fit against and provide a dust seal. The standing cabinet I bought second hand from ebay.
My Victory was the larger model and the case measures 116cm x 47cm x 83cm high. Picture attached.
This was about 4 years ago. The cost was just under £180 for the glass, £15 for silicon, £5 for the felt, angled wood strips about £12 and £25 for the cabinet. Total £227. Or about $300.
The most difficult part of it was lifting the glass case onto the base, with model already attached, once finished. Because of the weight. It took two of us - one each end - with two more standing by in case it slipped and destroyed 20 years work.
Ok, so it is not cabinet maker standard but I think it looks ok.


P1040686.JPG
 
IF you have a table saw, see if you can buy a set of moulding cutters for it. Sears used to sell ones. I bought mine in the 1970’s. They may be listed on EBay or maybe specialty woodworking dealers may offer them. I find them to be much easier to use for cutting moulding for glass cases than a router.

If you do but a set, post here or send me a PM before trying to use and I’ll post my setup.

Roger
 
I believe that anyone that has the skill to build a ship model, would have no trouble building a display case. The case doesn't need to be a piece of fine furniture, but with basic tools anyone can build one. And it’s a lot cheaper than purchasing one.
Youtube has a lot of DIY videos on building a display case
 
In my area, there is a small company that manufactures display cases and brochure stands for businesses. They were more than happy to slip a display case into their schedule for me. I felt the price is reasonable, considering the time, materials and level of perfection they put into it. This was for my 1/400 Titanic. Clear acrylic over a black lexan base which is “beveled” (by adding a smaller layer to map the clear portion from sliding off and taking Titanic with it) cost around $175 USD. A small price to pay for peace of mind after all the work that went into the build. The good thing about this company is that they can work custom shapes. Hard to see in this picture, it’s the only one I have in the case.

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My casemaker tells me NOT to use conventional cleaners on my acrylic panels. He says it yellows the plastic. Supposed to use a special plastic cleaner. Just passing it on...
 
Has anyone seen this YouTube video of an excellent way of building acrylic display cases? Doesn’t use glue but double sided tape only 3mm wide and very thin. I’ve made a few myself and works very well!
Just need the cost of acrylic sheets. And maybe a table saw for cutting. No other tools required.
 
Bluemaxone said:
My casemaker tells me NOT to use conventional cleaners on my acrylic panels. He says it yellows the plastic. Supposed to use a special plastic cleaner. Just passing it on...
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RussF said:
Definitely nothing with alcohol such as Windex.
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This stuff:


They also offer fine and coarse scratch removers, but I've never tried them:

 
Surprised no one has mentioned a critical factor in Plastic sheets
Lexan and Plexiglass are Poly-carbonate plastics
Acrylic is Acrylic plastic
Big difference !

Lexan and Plexiglass are machinable and resistant to breaking ( think- like bullet proof glass)
they can be cut with router bits and saw blades ect
They usually come with a paper wrap to protect from scratching and are more expensive than Acrylic

Arcylic will shatter if not fully supported doing cutting

Not sure of the adhesives to be used, but needed to point this out
 
I had experience with 4mil PE vapor barrier plastic. I used it for a one season greenhouse. (The frame was a Starplate pentagon.)
I skipped the dissemble step and left it up until Winter. The plastic had gotten opaque. On a very cold and windy night the PE shattered into thousands of slivers. The lesson that I took from that. Most if not all plastic is is the result of a catalyzed polymerization reaction. This involves the crosslinking of chains. The more crosslinked = the more rigid. For at least some types of plastic, UV light will act as a catalyst and crosslink the finished product. I have had many plastic items where over time the surface becomes powdery and later it breaks with a minimum force. I would place a serious bet that Acrylic is another plastic that continues its polymerization reaction and become brittle.

From some home display photos, putting aside the serious ventilation necessary and the not wanting an oven, I do not think that putting a case anywhere near a window is a good idea. Even a north facing window can get serious UV light from reflection.

Not apropos to building a model case:
My money is on the plastic used for 3D printing will be particularly prone to continued reaction and embrittling. The properties necessary for liquefaction, ejection, and incorporation likely come with a cost in longevity.

Dean
 
Rich Carlstedt said:
Surprised no one has mentioned a critical factor in Plastic sheets
Lexan and Plexiglass are Poly-carbonate plastics
Acrylic is Acrylic plastic
Big difference !

Lexan and Plexiglass are machinable and resistant to breaking ( think- like bullet proof glass)
they can be cut with router bits and saw blades ect
They usually come with a paper wrap to protect from scratching and are more expensive than Acrylic

Arcylic will shatter if not fully supported doing cutting

Not sure of the adhesives to be used, but needed to point this out
Click to expand...

I agree with you about the differences, however, while Lexan is indeed polycarbonate, Plexiglass is acrylic.

From Wikipedia:

Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) is a synthetic polymer derived from methyl methacrylate. It is a transparent thermoplastic, used as an engineering plastic. PMMA is also known as acrylic, acrylic glass, as well as by the trade names and brands Crylux, Walcast, Hesalite, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, PerClax, and Perspex, among several others (see below). This plastic is often used in sheet form as a lightweight or shatter-resistant alternative to glass. It can also be used as a casting resin, in inks and coatings, and for many other purposes.
 
Occre sells "case corners" and "wood profile" rails (1000 mm) which might make the task easier for a ship model of less than 1000 mm in any direction. I have made a case from scratch, but it does take time and a lot of knowledge of woodworking tools. My current model falls within those dimensions and I think I will give it a go.

occre.com

Wood profile

Set of wood profiles for to build a display case.
occre.com occre.com

occre.com

Case corner

Set of corner pieces to make a model display case.
occre.com occre.com
 
1000003544.jpgHere is an old drawing of how I used to make cabinets, using good
clear pine wood, strips are cut to three quarters by three quarter inches.,the groove for the plexiglass or glass is the thickness if the table saw blade.
You can router a strip or two one side and tack it on the bottom piece
for a little extra trim.
I now make the case so that one piece of the plexiglass at the end
can be easily removed . I can draw you a sketch of how to do this if
you wish.

Cheers, Winova
 
The first photo below shows my system for making glass ship model cases. The second photo shows a finished corner joint. The vertical supports for the glass pass completely through the horizontal ones forming a rigid corner joint.

RogerIMG_1474.jpegIMG_0378.jpeg
 
clogger said:
Has anyone seen this YouTube video of an excellent way of building acrylic display cases? Doesn’t use glue but double sided tape only 3mm wide and very thin. I’ve made a few myself and works very well!
Just need the cost of acrylic sheets. And maybe a table saw for cutting. No other tools required.
Click to expand...
Made my case this was and it works well.1000002649.jpg
 
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