LA SALAMANDRE, bomb ketch - POF - (CAF-models, 1/48)

Uwek, what are the difference(s) in the Proxxon Pen sanders?

Thanks!

Hallo @Jorge ,
I think the main difference is only the fact, that the PS12 is the older machine, and was with the time revised by Proxxon by the PS13.
There are some small differences in the plastic form of the pen, but they are working completely the same. I am working with both parallel, each with different grid of sandpaper........
 
Absolutely stunning kit and workmanship! Your workshop leaves me a little envious as well! I was wondering about the use of various grades of steel wool
for final smoothing other than sand papers. I use steel wool for fine furniture refinishing as the wool tends to shave/slice off wood instead of disturbing the fibers with paper.
Hallo Ron,
I bought this stuff and will try it on the La Salamandre.
It is like a very stiff gauze and should according the advertisment produce a smooth surface.
After use I will write my experience here in the forum....
BTW: The manufacturer Lux-Tools is a daughter company of OBI, an austrian (or german?) hardware store, so I guess it is only available in these stores.
But I guess also other brands have such kind of sanding gauze.....

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Hi Uwe
Nice work you are doing.
The pads look like the same things we get in NZ for cleaning glass cooking dishes.
You can get them from any supermarket.

Denis.
 
I was contemplating the use of actual steel wool for it's slicing/scraping qualities versus something that would lift the wood fibers. It comes in a multitude of grades from 00 super fine all the way up. You can almost get a luster from some hard woods if used correctly. Sanding in the normal way is perfect for taking surfaces down quickly.

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I was contemplating the use of actual steel wool for it's slicing/scraping qualities versus something that would lift the wood fibers. It comes in a multitude of grades from 00 super fine all the way up. You can almost get a luster from some hard woods if used correctly. Sanding in the normal way is perfect for taking surfaces down quickly.

View attachment 46491
I have to try this. Sounds like a great idea.
Havagooday
Greg
 
I was contemplating the use of actual steel wool for it's slicing/scraping qualities versus something that would lift the wood fibers. It comes in a multitude of grades from 00 super fine all the way up. You can almost get a luster from some hard woods if used correctly. Sanding in the normal way is perfect for taking surfaces down quickly.

View attachment 46491


I use this in the finer grades when I turn wood on the lathe, it does give a beautiful lustre to the wood, you got to be careful on the lathe though that you only have a small wad of it, otherwise it can wrap around the especially small turnings,

best regards John.
 
I use this in the finer grades when I turn wood on the lathe, it does give a beautiful lustre to the wood, you got to be careful on the lathe though that you only have a small wad of it, otherwise it can wrap around the especially small turnings,

best regards John.

And get your fingers caught in it..... that is when you know you will be in trouble.
Be careful mate.
Greg
 
Hi Uwe
Nice work you are doing.
The pads look like the same things we get in NZ for cleaning glass cooking dishes.
You can get them from any supermarket.

Denis.

G'day Denis, I think you will find they are just scouring pads, these one's must be impregnated with some sort of a sanding material to smooth the wood, I could be wrong, maybe Uwe can explain it a bit more,

Best regards John,
 
Sometimes it is necessary to say - Now it is enough.....sanding
Yesterday I finished for the moment the sanding activities of the hull of my La Salamandre. Inside and off course also outside.
Maybe at some smaller areas there will be something necessary, when I install the planking, wales etc., but this I can do also directly before.

In addition at this stage I want also to make some small resumee of the kit and want to review some decissions I made during the preparation and installations of the frames:

1) The elements of kit from CAF is fitting extremely good, means that the 3D model which was the basis for the laser cutting of the elements is very accurate and correct. You can rely on these laser lines by 99,5%
2) Due to the fact, that I did not rely on these lines in the beginng, I left on every frame some meat for later sanding. This was one of the reasons, why I had to sand hours and hours more than maybe usual.
3) I was happy, that I tried to prepare the single frames (all together 44) very accurate - with this well prepared frames you can reduce the hull sanding extremely.
4) Take the time for the stem and stern parts. A good and detailed preparation of these elements is a good investment. It is worth to spend these additional hours to get a good result at the end. Dry-fitting, maybe sometimes with double sided adhesive tape was for me a good way to check over and over again.
5) Some things or steps I would maybe adjust a little bit, but overall it worked out well for me.
6) Most important: Do not get in "love" with your ship - I realized at the end, that I like to touch her fine lines...... ;)

Now the status of my built, as usual maybe more photos as usual in a log, but you know, it is for other modelers working on the same kit. And I could not decide which photos not to show.
Enjoy

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The bow with the hawse pieces
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The hawse pieces from inside and the outside hull
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The stern with the lower fashion pieces, after installation of the keelson elements the finishing of the stern construction is one of the next steps.
Herefore I have to reinstall the hull into the jig (which is no problem, because it fits very well)
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Many Thanks for your interest ........ To be continued ......
 
Wow Uwe, that is incredible, fantastic workmanship, and beautiful photo's as well, my credit card is starting to itch , I think if anyone had any concerns about these Chinese models, I think you have just settled it for them,

Best regards John.
 
G'day Uwe
I'm sorry to day this to you mate.
I think you should start over again.
Get another kit an build the same model again,
BUT,
do not do an incredible, absolutely marvelous job as you have done now.
I would like you to leave this model alone, so people can oogle theirs eyes over it.
I can't day anymore now, because my mind is numb.
Happymodeling
Greg
 
Hallo my friends......many thanks for the positive feedbacks you gave and the likes received.....thanks a lot

@zoly99sask : "I like frame like this much better without chars,I guess you got tired of sanding for a while. "
yes you are right......this is realy the main negative part of such kits - if the frame-elements are precut with laser, you reduce the frame production in comparison with scratch built. On the other hand I am pretty sure, that you need some more hours for final sanding, without any remaining char.....
 
Some small progress with the final installation of the keelson elements of the La Salamandre

First with the used clamps - very usefull, but for the Salamandre planking I will not able to use them further, due to the fact, that the screw diameter is slightly bigger than the space between the frames. Only at some locations it will be possible

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and final

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Hi Greg,

Do you know these clamps, seems to be great for solving you clamping issue.
https://www.schiffsmodelle-shop.de/en/special-tools/22246-planking-clamp-set.html
Thanks for the hint.....I saw them already, but I do not have them until now. I am pretty sure they are working well to press the needle into plywood, but in solid cherry i have my doubts. Maybe with drilling a hole before with smaller diameter than the needle. I will order them and give them a chance.
Thanks once more!
 
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