Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hi Donnie
A box cutter with a little pressure on each tab ( flipping ply) will works well on 4-6mm CNC cut. Save you using the SS and risk damaging the parts and cutting up good ply.

Wait till you try a Jotika Kit thats all CNC.
 
Thanks PaulV. I will remember that. This pic just shows that I temp installed the Bulkheads - no glue. I have to make a building board for this next.

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Check out HobbyZone.biz
I have the small version I am using for Le Renard.
The large one will be ordered in the near future.
Very impressive slip for ship building.
Rick
https://www.hobbyzone.biz/psm01.shtml​
 

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Rick, if the one you are talking about is the HobbyZone PSM01 Professional Ship-Building Slip, which I did look up - it is unfortunate that it is out of stock at this time. I like it and wanted to order it. I already stopped at the Home Depot because they have small pieces of MDF and not have to buy a whole sheet.

I got a piece of 1/2 inch 4 x 4 and will cut it up later. If I have time, I will draw a 3D of it and post it here. It will be very simple.

Donnie
 
I got my Building Board made. It is not elaborate. Just a simple base 24" x 10" and then two separate pieces cut with a rabbet on each one. The rabbet forms a channel so that the thickness of base will not interfere with the Bulkheads. I just need a little relief area. The creative part of my brain is not working well, so, it is what it is and will have to work. It is time to get on with the project now !!!

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It didn't take but a few minutes to install the Bulkheads and the two layers of decks. I am really amazed as how all of this fits together and is really a tight fit. The frame is really solid even with no glue. The two layer pieces really make the Bulkheads line up square.

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Well,
everything you saw was just a dry fitting. I really wanted to glue up all the Bulkheads at one time and while the glue was wet to install the decks 1 and 2 so that the decks would provide a nice platform for being square.
As I was applying glue to one of the Bulkheads, I realized that this is not going to happen as it is difficult to manage the wet glue as it flows - so, I thought that I would wind up having a mess on my hands. Just decided to do things the old fashioned way and use clamps galore and 3" machinist squares to make sure things are square.
I am showing this 'one' as a procedure and won't show the remaining as it is just the same.

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Hi Donnie, don't forget that on the laser cut parts the edge is at an angle.
As an example on the Mayflower the bow keel and beak will be off at an angle of about 30 degrees, so should one use a "fill in" or sand the "proud" side level and then maybe have to reshape a whole lot of other things.
Regards
Eric
 
Well, on to the rest of the Frame glue up. No problems. All laser pieces fit nice. The strips in one images are the beam supports for the lower deck.

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BEWARE OF THIS STEP IF YOU ARE BUILDING THIS MODEL:
I am adding this info now as of May, 29 2018. The problem continues with the placement of the Cannon support balsa parts. Even with the supports lined up with the false deck, they are STILL not going to set correctly. EACH Cannon will have to be measured and fitted. What is the remedy ? I am not sure.
The Cannons will also have an ANGLE to them which also poses a problem. I do know that they LOWER supports are too far back, but this can not be accomplished at this time. Another method should be developed. This is very poor method if you want to have a ship that looks great. This method below is still not acceptable. The only other method would be to modify or add a "box" for each cannon like some other kits do. Then fit the box after the hull is completed. It would be necessary to file out extra square opening for such.


Adding the Cannon support strips next.
PROBLEM: These Cannon support strips should NOT be glued flush with the upper and lower platform. These strips should be glued at least about 7.5mm back towards the center of ship. I did not review the length of the False Cannon barrels at first of which I should have. As a matter of fact, each strip should be positioned correctly. But, how can this be done before any planking. You will have to measure the best you can because the Cannon barrels are TOO LONG and will protrude out of the ship a huge amount.

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thank you Daniel.

As a side note, I am not sure if I should paint the dummy cannon supports black or leave them alone.

Donnie
 
Paint black and the dummy cannons look like full cannons. Leave unpainted and the wood will show that they are not full cannons since it can be seen easily. I paint the entire area black and it even makes them look real on close examination as long as you do not use a flashlight to highlight the area.
 
Thank you Gary - will do !
As suggested by Gary, and cutting the Cannon supports, they are painted black. I used Folk Art brand "Pure Black" Acrylic.

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Thank you Zoltan - I appreciate the compliments. Now the Port side Canon supports are completed, now on to the Starboard. I really do not like the way Panart decided to do it this way with the blocks. As now that I am at the stage of almost installing Cannons, there are some gaps and misalignment's. My suggestion is to fill up the entire area with like a balsa wall to make sure that your Cannon "stub" will have a balsa insert to attach to.

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Completed the Starboard side of Cannon supports.

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I had to remove some of the Cannon support material as it was interfering with how the False Deck was laying down on support beams. The last image shows that I am dry fitting the False Deck using tacks. Now, I am ready to glue the False Deck in place.
The 3rd forward Bulkhead upper piece snapped off (which is supposed to) no problems there. The lazer cuts all the way through except for a "tab" on each side. They protrude upwards to use as a guide and support to hold the False Deck in place. Afterwards, they will be snapped off.

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