San felipe 1690 zhl kit 1:50

Love this kit until now. No stress till now. Everything fits almost needless. Couldnt sleep last night because of my crohn disease is active again so i build a bit without making any noise that can wake up my wife and son. Cutting out the parts with exacto knife and than glue. No sound.....no sanding.
 
Gday mate nice ship
What are the plans like I'm doing the occre diana and i find their plans great.
Im curious as i like zhl prices but i still want quality and good plans
Thanks snowy I'll keep watching.
 
The quality is verry good. All the parts are lasercut and most of them fit needless. There was almost no sanding needed. With this kit you get a cd with fotographs and text in english. Also are 11 A4 plans included and 2 a0 1on 1 plans. Easy to follow. The wood in the kit is also good. I am really happy with this kit and my next will also be zhl. Delivery is quick. So no worry.
 
I have this same kit and I was impressed by it. What I I see is the decks are very level but usually the guns should curve up from the center of the ship toward the back and front. I know it comes with a cardboard pattern to put over the planking for cutting out the cannon port doors. Thus, the backing blocks for the cannons should run up from the deck up to the next deck since the actual hole to fit the dummy cannons would not follow a straight line. So the blocks must be glued very solid since you would be drilling the hole after the doors are cut.
Thanks for posting your build stages since I will use this to avoid any pitfalls as I build my model.
 
I would not suggest using any "reddish" wood, like mahogany, cherry or any exotic wood which looks nice on models but actually spoil the authenticity of the model.

A small research should be done about build model to find out what kind of wood was used at that time and kind of ships.
You would never mistake using walnut in the first place or oak veneer for the second planking since the most of the sailing ships were build from that wood due to their superb characteristics in the maritime use.
I would prefer walnut veneer planking for San Felipe, stained by some acrylic colorless wood stains no glossy at all if possible. and all painted ornaments and colors on that ship to be slightly blended, paled, not vivid like on the plastic toys. A bit of "patina" over it would make your model just perfect .

Try to avoid any reddish or light colored wood since they have never been used in shipyards from 15th to 19th century (except for expensive captain's cabins furniture).

Finished model should resemble the real ship, not to just serve as a nice toy in the glass display.
If you let me say one more thing- try avoiding any kind of varnish- old sailing ships were never "varnished" they were sealed and impregnated by oils, tar, oil based paints (later). They had their vivid colors only after leaving shipyards. A few months on the sea, the most of the vivid colors got pale and blended. The more realistic colors of the 16th century ships for example, are more like these on this model from my previous build. P4160354.jpgIMG_20180405_143740.jpg
 
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Short high-jacking of your log - sorry!

Related to sorts of timber and the possible use in ship-modeling I want to give a link to the very informative topic "wood it's characteristics and use in model building" made by @didit in which all sorts of timber is described.
https://www.shipsofscale.com/sosfor...aracteristics-and-use-in-model-building.2047/


As usual it is a final question of taste referring to color etc.

F.e. I would not use any kind of oak in building my models, although a lot of ships were originally built with this timber. For me it is a question also of the scale, due to the fact that the grain of oak is not fitting to the scale of our models. also the grain should be downscaled !!!

Off course it is an extreme example, but I think the photo showing a table is explaining my doubts on oak
Esstisch-Holz-Eiche-Maserung-attraktiv-Altholz-Möbel-Design.jpg
 
G'day Pat
You're doing great guns mate. Working at warp speed I have noticed!
It looks like a standard Chinese quality kit.
First class
I am really happy with this kit and my next will also be zhl. Delivery is quick.

So will my next kit!
ZHL's quality is far superior than all the others.
Happymodeling
Greg
P.S. I'm hoping that your Crohn's disease will soon clear up, that's is a pain in the arse, isn't it.
Greg
 
Going bit slower now. Going to do first planking. Have to make lot of canon ports . Crohn is better now. Back stil hurts.
 
Update. Started first planking. There is a piece of paper with the kit where the cannon ports are cut out. But they dont aline well. Half way its about 1 cm off so it doesnt line up with the blocks for the dummy's. It also doesnt fit on the scale 1 on 1 drawing. So made holes in the blocks for the cannons and put a wooden stick in it and now drawing the line for the line of the decks on the wood. I ordered premade metal cannon ports and when they arive i can use the stick as the middel point to cut the ports . Tnx for watching.

20180906_190331.jpg20180907_172703.jpg20180907_172722.jpg20180907_172734.jpg20180907_172744.jpg20180907_172756.jpg
 
G'day Pat
U wouldn't trust that cardboard cut out. But you said that it didn't fit the plan. Hmmm that might be a good sign.
Remember the plan are 2D and the model is 3D and the arch of the hull is where the discrepancy comes into play.
What you are doing is the best method.
Regarding the second planking. I always use contact adhesive. It's easy to sand off and the excess glue between the planks attracts the sawdust and the result is far neater.
The colour of veneer you have to do research on. For example the Royal Caroline had a yellowish tone due to the wood that was used. The Royal William has a dark reddish tone etc. by memory.
The information that Uwe gave you sounds the best.
Happymodeling
Greg
 
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Copied the 1 on 1 scale drawing cut out the cannon ports but the are also not in line. I like the redish wood or cherry maybe cobmbined with walnut.
 
nice work, take your time. My AL kit gave measurements, for the cannons, but no template. However the measurements were not right, Make your own template up and you should be able to flip it for both sides of the hull.
 
Between thet second en thirth deck also must be placed some cannons. This time you have to make the port and then push a little walnut wood Block in the port with glue on it. When that is fixated you have to push the canon through the port with glue on it . Didnt seems handy to me so i glued some balsa blocks allong the whole deck because dont know yet where the port must come . So now i hope i did the right thing but thats for later on when the hull is closed and the port cut out.

20180907_235500.jpg
 
The cannons are silver colourd and at some pictures on Internet the are painted gold. Think i make them blackish never seen golden cannons
 
Hi Pat

Nice work.
Re locating the cannons, I had the same problem with my SoS build I ended up putting the filler blocks from bulkhead to bulkhead so the dummy cannons did not miss the blocks.

Denis.
 
your rolling Bro she's coming together nice. I have found on almost all the AL kits I've built that the cannon ports are off from the drawings in fact most of the ship usually is. I use my best judgment on the cannon ports as it rarely makes a difference being off an 1/8" one way or the other so long as the up and down is good. I've had to cut into bulkheads in the past for below deck cannons because the ports were misaligned on the drawing when I measured it, now if one is gonna hit a bulkhead I just shift them all that tiny bit to avoid the issue. I'll only cut bulkheads if shifting will create other issues.
 
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