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Sometimes life gets easier

B

BarrySR

Joined
May 2, 2020
Messages
85
Points
88

Here’s a great use for AI.
I have the Mamoli Kit of the victory. And of course the instructions are in Italian. Now that AI ChatGPT is available foreign instruction are no longer problem.
I took a photo on my iPhone copied and pasted into ChatGPT and asked it to translate it into English.
This is the results.
1770600508565.jpeg
Below is a careful English translation of the text as written (keeping the meaning and technical flavor of the original Italian). I’ve kept the numbering and structure the same.


Table (Plate) No. 9


  1. Prepare all the shafts and accessories according to the dimensions shown on the table.
    Pay particular attention to the following details:


317 – BOWSPRIT (BOMPRESSO):


Make at the forward end first the inclined 6×6 square at 30°, then with a file and sandpaper shape the first 60 mm section into a cylindrical form. Glue the two fairleads (passacavi) made from strip wood onto the sides of the bowsprit. Glue the stays for the rigging formed from small pieces of strip wood glued around the shaft, also tapered at 30°, since the bowsprit is mounted at the bow with this inclination. In the figure, the dashed-and-dotted line indicates the end of the part from which to obtain the forward square.



318 – JIB BOOM (ASTA DEL FIOCCO):


Lightly chamfer a section of the rear part.


320 – MOOR’S HEAD (TESTA DI MORO):


This is a normal adjusted Moor’s head.



324 – PENNANT (PENNONE):


It is made from a 4 mm dowel and has the central part covered with 1×2 walnut strip. All larger pennants are built in the same way; only the measurements vary. In the figures they are shown cut slightly beyond the cylindrical part.


326 – MAIN YARD (ALBERO DI TRINCHETTO):


It has a cylindrical lower part, a conical central part, and the end with a square section. On the sides are glued the strips 327 tapered toward the bottom; previously strip 328 is glued on to facilitate gluing the strips. Slightly plane the yard along the gluing lines.


330 – TOPMAST (ALBERO DI PARROCCHETTO):


The lower cylindrical part has a chamfered section and 2 pieces of strip glued on the sides to increase the thickness of the strip to 7 mm. The upper part is square in section and has 2 pieces of strip with 2 holes of 1 mm attached to the yard to act as fairleads.


336 – MASTHEAD (ALBERO DI VELACCIO):


The round top of the mast is made from a cannon wheel to which the spikes have been rounded off.


378–379 – BOOM AND GAFF (BOMA E PICCO):


They have forked ends made from 2 pieces of strip glued to the sides of the spar after it has been planed with inclined planes.



THE TEXT CONTINUES ON TABLE B, WHERE THE MISSING NUMBERS IN THE DRAWING ARE ALSO FOUND.



If you’d like, I can also:


  • make this more “model-builder friendly,”
  • simplify it into step-by-step instructions, or
  • match specific parts to a particular kit or plan.
 
I have to build my first ship using instructions in Italian, a book written by Vincenzo Lusci on rigging the ship in Italian, and using other drawings featuring the rigging of the same ship model in German. All the really good books seem to have been written in a language other than English. After a while, you learn a lot of the terminology in other languages and the problem becomes smaller. The main source book for the decorations on the ship I'm working on right now is in German, and my cell phone has a Google Translate application on it that instantly translates a page into the language of you choice.
 
That's got to be a huge help for kit builders. Regrettably, though, in many instances, the problem with too many imported kits isn't merely that something's been lost in the translation of the instructions. Just as often, the problem is poor engineering, substandard materials and/or production quality, out-of-scale parts, and/or just plain sloppy research.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
I have to build my first ship using instructions in Italian, a book written by Vincenzo Lusci on rigging the ship in Italian, and using other drawings featuring the rigging of the same ship model in German. All the really good books seem to have been written in a language other than English. After a while, you learn a lot of the terminology in other languages and the problem becomes smaller. The main source book for the decorations on the ship I'm working on right now is in German, and my cell phone has a Google Translate application on it that instantly translates a page into the language of you choice.
Click to expand...
I am from the Isle of Hellen Keller, and everything is difficult for me. Italian, German, Latvian or (am I at 7-11?). For what it is worth, I work for Keller Supply for a living, so I can throw the dumb jokes out if I want. Your SOS must be progressing along very well now by the looks of all the different figurines you have 3-d printed. I would like to see progress on installation of these guys, see where you are at on your build. (Show Off) You are the first contact I made when I became a member, and you were absolutely correct about the knowledge and books and other things I would need to build my first ship of wood. Thank You! I actually have a completed first planking of my HMS Surprise. I stared at the bulkheads for the longest time and thought where do I continue from here. I am pleased to see I am not the only one who struggled through this process. Continue on young sailor and fire that weapon.... first let me get out of the way.


Sturgeon opens in Pacific NW and I have to work........... What? Well, Spring Chinook are just around the corner.
 
dnalley said:
I am from the Isle of Hellen Keller, and everything is difficult for me. Italian, German, Latvian or (am I at 7-11?). For what it is worth, I work for Keller Supply for a living, so I can throw the dumb jokes out if I want. Your SOS must be progressing along very well now by the looks of all the different figurines you have 3-d printed. I would like to see progress on installation of these guys, see where you are at on your build. (Show Off) You are the first contact I made when I became a member, and you were absolutely correct about the knowledge and books and other things I would need to build my first ship of wood. Thank You! I actually have a completed first planking of my HMS Surprise. I stared at the bulkheads for the longest time and thought where do I continue from here. I am pleased to see I am not the only one who struggled through this process. Continue on young sailor and fire that weapon.... first let me get out of the way.


Sturgeon opens in Pacific NW and I have to work........... What? Well, Spring Chinook are just around the corner.
Click to expand...
The 3-D objects have not yet been printed an applied to the hull yet. That will begin happening after all the 3-D objects are completed.
 
I have also run into issues such as this. I have the book Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. Fortunately he has included an Italian-English Dictionary and glossary of terms for masts and rigging. This way I can put notations on the plans and instructions as I go. Has been a great help.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
The 3-D objects have not yet been printed an applied to the hull yet. That will begin happening after all the 3-D objects are completed.
Click to expand...
I did AutoCAD for a living, years back designing and converting old glass tempering oven drawings and files. It drained me. I could not believe the way people cheated on their dimensions or properly set up scale. Measuring parts of old DISK files found me in another world. If these drawings went to a laser or plasma cutting company, they would be defective and not work at all. I am impressed by your work and others on this forum. So how much to 3-d print a few cats heads for my anchor davits?

Take care and continue to impress us all.
 
dnalley said:
I did AutoCAD for a living, years back designing and converting old glass tempering oven drawings and files. It drained me. I could not believe the way people cheated on their dimensions or properly set up scale. Measuring parts of old DISK files found me in another world. If these drawings went to a laser or plasma cutting company, they would be defective and not work at all. I am impressed by your work and others on this forum. So how much to 3-d print a few cats heads for my anchor davits?

Take care and continue to impress us all.
Click to expand...
Pennies. It takes more time to set up the printer and print than it does to pay for the resin. Once I get into the printing stage, I may be able to help some of you out with some printed parts. They won't be on the quality level as others here on the forum, since I am a beginner at this. The others are offering top quality 3-d model prints at really good prices. I recently bought a 3-D model from @SeasModels , the Roman soldier figurehead for 1:64 privateer Rattlesnake, and previously bought 50 gun barrels from @SZKUTNIK .
 
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