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Metal strapping on blocks

It depends on the scale, of course. For larger scales, many use copper and blacken it with liver of sulfur. For smaller scales, the usual choice is shellacked acid-free paper strips painted black and glued to the block. While the shellac gives the paper greater strength, is is not really suitable for carrying the tension of the rig and is prone to tearing. Others use a strip of black plastic tape. The tape can be problematic because we have no idea of the archival qualities of the tape adhesive It won't do if it lets go in a few years.
 
Pretty much anything you want, from 0.001" upwards. (1/16" at 1:64 scale,,,, if my math is correct) I have no idea where to get it in the UK or Europe in general but hopefully another member from the UK will post a source. If you do a search do one for copper sheets and another for copper foil. The supplier I use here in the US offers both, but the thinnest sheets are much thicker than the foil.
Allan
 
Maybe you could post some photos of the tools used for this strapping

I try to stay with suture scissors or scalpel. I switched to scalpels decades ago after too many Xactos rolled off the bench and a few times sticking in my leg.
Bending metal at our scales is easy so no special tools necessary. Brass can work as well as copper but if too thick can tend have some spring and cannot be blackened instantly like copper can with diluted liver of sulfur.
Allan
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Pretty much anything you want, from 0.001" upwards. (1/16" at 1:64 scale,,,, if my math is correct) I have no idea where to get it in the UK or Europe in general but hopefully another member from the UK will post a source. If you do a search do one for copper sheets and another for copper foil. The supplier I use here in the US offers both, but the thinnest sheets are much thicker than the foil.
Allan
Ebay UK
 
1/6 scale clinker row boat
Cap'n Robster:
At that scale, it's pretty easy to make a lot of gear. You can use brass, copper, or styrene at scale or near-scale thickness. For example, if full size thickness is 2mm, then model thickness is 0.3mm. I like working on small craft at large scale, usually 1/12. What I have to ask is where are blocks used on a 12-foot skiff? I sail a 16-foot Sea Bright skiff with a traditional spritsail rig and there isn't a block to be seen. Fair winds!
 
I'm building that model and I too, wonder where the blocks come in.
Mine will be sailing, but the sheeting will just pass through brass eyelets as do the rudder guys from the servo
Kim
 
Maybe you could post some photos of the tools used for this strapping

I use a standard old-fashioned guillotine paper cutter for cutting all my copper strips from copper sheet. It will cut long very narrow strips of perfectly straight copper sheet very easily. I have a stash of copper sheeting I got from a roofer friend. It's used a lot in quality roofing construction. Scraps can be scrounged pretty easily. When cut on the paper cutter, the off-cut strips will tend to curl. I then put one end of the strip in a vise and clamp a pair of vise-grips onto the other end and give the curled strip a strong, steady pull. This returns the strip to perfectly straight, uncurled shape. A paper cutter is a handy tool to have for a lot of other modeling uses, particular for card and even thin wood sheeting.

Guillotine paper cutters are a dime a dozen in the online local "marketplace" and auction sites. I even saw a somewhat tired-looking one for free on a local marketplace site the other day. Small, lightweight ones can be purchased new on Amazon for as little as twenty-five bucks. The bigger and heavier ones, the better, though. If you find a good old heavy one that has a dull blade, just take it to your local tool sharpening shop and have them professionally sharpen it for you. If not abused thereafter, it will stay sharp for the rest of your life and probably your grandkids' too!

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