Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

@donfarr

I bought this one:
Height gauge

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THANKS OLIVER, WILL BE GETTING ONE PROBALLY THE 200mm one going to need it for my LE ROCHEFORT BUILD. Don

I´m looking forward to my future projects. The 300mm was the choice as well for the Bonhomme Richard.

For not spend all my money for chrismas gifts for the whole family i spend it for this loveley Unimat 3. In this way my money is saved. To find a good Unimat is like a parking place in the city. It´s war ! This machine close my last gap on the subject tool machines. I don´t need the milling/drill adapter, but it´s nice to have. How good the machine works we will see soon.

Now that is a wonderful toy Oliver Fabulous little machine,the only thing you could do with sourcing is the compound slide to enable taper turning,especially if you plan on turning your own cannons

Kind Regards

Nigel

Thank you, Nigel. Yeah i need some little modifications for good results.

The height adjustable quick change tool holder will be a good buy Oliver.It will save on shimming tools.If you plan on doing complex turning I would suggest your buy two or three.Each one can then be set up with your frequently used tools already mounted

Kind Regards

Nigel

I saw this Chinese "Engraving tool" down some internet rabbit hole, and figured it was inexpensive enough to go ahead and order one.
It is actually made for doing fingernails. I have some projects where I am engraving plexiglas and corian to make forming dies for soft sheet metal. For the price it is pretty amazing. The handpiece is the best part- it feels solid, handles nicely and is more like drawing with a pencil than other cheap rotary tools. Best of all, it is variable speed and reversible which is important when you are doing rotary engraving. The foot switch is plastic, but will be easy to replace when it breaks. The transformer/control box is WAY too lightweight. It is easy to pull it around with the very stiff coiled cord, but a drafting weight keeps it in place. It' so light I really worry how long the transformer will last, stepping down 110v AND 220v to 12v DC. The European plug just plugs into a US standard adapter. It takes a limited shank size- seems like between 2.25mm and 3mm. I had a few carbide burrs that fit, and 3mm seems to be standard for inexpensive diamond and stone burrs- I have a bunch from the US Harbor Freight 9.95 USD rotary tools. After playing with it, works great! With the Optivisor on I can see doing ships carvings with it. I'm not sure how hard 3mm shank burrs will be to find. I'll report back when and if it fails.

I'm not sure how hard 3mm shank burrs will be to find.
In Australia at our big hardware store (Bunnings) I have seen and purchased Dremel burrs as well as Chinese site Banggood.

Today I received two interesting books in german language.



"Über den Wellen bin ich einzigartig - Das Skulpturenprogramm am Heck der Royal Louis (1668)" by Eugen Rickenbacher (1)
and
"Versailles der Meere - Die barocken Segelschiffe Ludwigs XIV im Kontext Ihrer Zeit" by Bernd Monath (2)

Synopsis (1):
„Über den Wellen bin ich einzigartig, so wie es mein König in der Welt ist“ – so lautete die unbescheidene Devise des französischen Kriegsschiffes Royal Louis, das 1668 in Toulon vom Stapel lief. Das Prachtschiff in der neuen Flotte des jungen Ludwig XIV. übertrumpfte mit über hundert Kanonen tatsächlich das bis dahin immer noch mächtigste Schiff der Welt, die englische Sovereign of the Seas von 1637. Für den Skulpturenschmuck beauftragte man Ludwigs ersten Hofmaler Charles Le Brun mit dem Entwurf und die Bildhauer François Girardon und vor allem Pierre Puget mit der künstlerischen Werkstattleitung, während Ludwigs Minister Colbert stets ein wachsames Auge auf die Arbeiten hielt. Anhand zeitgenössischer Text- und Bildquellen rekonstruiert der Autor das bedeutende Skulpturenprogramm der Heckfassade, eine opulente Schauwand, auf der nicht nur der König, sondern auch die französische Kunst über alle Vorbilder gestellt und die Royal Louis zum veritablen Staatsschiff erhoben wurde.

Synopsis (2):
Das Segelschiff war der komplexeste, von Menschenhand gefertigte Mechanismus der Welt: ein Stück wundervolle Holzarchitektur – angetrieben allein vom Wind.
Die Künstler und Baumeister, die das Versailler Schloss errichteten, ließen gleichzeitig die barocken Segelschiffe Ludwigs XIV. entstehen. Bernd Monath stellt diese Künstler und ihre Netzwerke vor und schildert ihr Ringen mit den Schiffskonstrukteuren um die Verwirklichung gewagter Ideen einer geradezu entfesselten Ornamentik. Die Beschreibung dieser reichen Skulpturenprogramme illustriert er mit zahlreichen Zeichnungen und Fotografien. Sprachgewaltig gelingt es dem Autor, die längst vergangene Zeit der Freibeuter wieder auferstehen zu lassen. Er porträtiert charismatische Frauen und Männer, die Europa und dessen gesellschaftliche Konventionen hinter sich ließen, um ein freies Leben nach ihren eigenen Vorstellungen zu führen.
Ein wissenschaftliches Sachbuch, das sich liest wie ein spannender Roman seiner Zeit.

Brass nails for various things.

Black acrylic paint that I will try to make (kaulking?) Between planks with, tips from Dave.
Thin 0.5mm brass plate for hinges for door and hatches, Blandford.

For us, Frenchys, the right stuff, Uwe ! Interesting.

Black acrylic paint that I will try to make (kaulking?) Between planks with, tips from Dave.
Thin 0.5mm brass plate for hinges for door and hatches, Blandford.
Hello Norway, I will assume that the paint is to be used on your Blandford? For the larger scales your best option would be to used black paper or even thin black card. The best way to utilize the paper/card is to cut a piece 10 - 12 times the thickness of you planks, apply glue to planks and/or paper, attach next plank and so on, when glue is almost dry shave paper/card flush with deck with a very sharp blade. When totally dry timber deck and paper/card can be sanded smooth. For the 1/48 I would use black card stock and on 1/32 use black paper. Make caulking look more realistic and uniform where paint MAY bleed. Use the paint for the cannons.

Olivers Historic Shipyard said:

For not spend all my money for chrismas gifts for the whole family i spend it for this loveley Unimat 3. In this way my money is saved. To find a good Unimat is like a parking place in the city. It´s war ! This machine close my last gap on the subject tool machines. I don´t need the milling/drill adapter, but it´s nice to have. How good the machine works we will see soon.

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The Unimat 3 is a beautiful tool. I feel lucky to have one now. Beyond the tapering head you might find the automatic feed-attachment very useful (this is one attachment i do not have). Be just careful with the driving belts, they are easily damaged. And keep an eye on that certain 8 min rule. I put a small fan behind the Unimat to keep the motor cool.
Janos

Eric, the result of Doc Blak`s Blanford looks very good, he has used acrylic between the boards under Whales,
but I'm going to make samples with paper and cardboard even before I do the actual work on the model.
Thanks for your attention, all good advice is welcome.
Regards-

JEDINO ŠTA NA UNIMAT ILI EMKO 3 NEVALJA TOJE MOTOR ALI ZA TO
IMA REŠENJE
Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten
Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten

google translation (and Uwe interpretation):
The only problem of the Unimat or Emco 3 could be the motor, but there are solutions possible.
Das einzige Problem könnte der Motor darstellen, aber hierfür gibt es Lösungen

Hi guys, I have a Unimat SL lathe, my father gave me in 2012, it was then over 40 years old! When I was using it the motor would get extremely hot and the shut down if I did not switch off. After a suggestion I took the motor off and dismantled it and was shocked to see the amount of carbon dust inside the motor. Motor was cleaned out and the commutator was cleaned with some 1000 wet and dry. When reassembled the motor now runs quieter and cooler, after an hour or continuous running the motor is only a little warm.
I am also looking at the possibility of having a stepper motor instead of the standard motor, speed on the stepper motor is variable and would heat up the same as the standard motor.

Bought this - I think it's cropped up on SOS before. It looks useful and the only criticisms I've seen are about the quality of the included sanding pads, but these are easily replaced with homemade ones. Do I really need it? Stupid question - it's a proxxon and looks good in any reputable workshop

Just received a new beautiful book, for which I was searching longer - in the meantime rare and unfortunately expensive copy



Nicolaes Witsen and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age
(Ed Rachal Foundation Nautical Archaeology Series)
by A. J. Hoving (Author)

UWE, WHERE DID YOU GET THAT ONE I TOO HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS ONE ALSO PRICE RANGE. THANKS Don