A look Into a USNA museum restoration;18th c. model of s Spanish 74gun 3rd rate ship of the line; Battle of Trafalgar, model late18th or early 19th c.

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Peter Gutterman

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An assortment of pictures of the restoration of the 74 gun, third rate Spanish ship of the line "El Terrible" model ca,1790-1810. These are just a random selection of a much more vast project restoring this hull in all it's complexities from a model stored and neglected in a boiler room for 60 years. I restored the entire hull. The model was designed with removable decks all the way down to the orlop deck, suggesting that the masting and rigging was added later in its long life.

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These are not all necessarily in order, but you get the idea. In the officer's stern cabin you can see a little door to the left. This door was functional, behind which was contained the little "Seat of Ease" housed in the side Quarter Gallery for the Captain (or Admiral's personal use).
The stern transom Gallery had to be completely restored because it was missing most of the balusters, the railing they support and at least four of the inner and outer pilasters (upright flat fluted columns) which were recreated by a laser cutter, after first making a drawing of the parts, which was then recreated in a zip file for the laser. The same process was used in recreating the poop deck bulk head, front and back as pictured, which was entirely missing, as was the deck itself. Several of the windows in the Quarter galleries were missing and had to be recreated. The entire finish had to cleaned, conserved and restored. The whole model was blackened by several ancient coats of desiccated shellac, oxidized to a shade of charcoal ( which, in fact it was a form of). All upward facing surfaces were covered with caustic layers of dust as thick as felt. The drawing of the bow , bowsprit and all the rigging that I made one to one scale, was typical in order to have a record of the rigging before the entire model was disassembled. This process cannot be done with photographs because they are too confusing to discern the detail accurately. The Masting and rigging process is now in the hands of a specialist in that discipline to whom I have surrendered first chair. All this (so far) has been achieved in several hours a couple of days a week at the Naval academy model workshop (visible in the background) starting in 2016 and interrupted for a year or more by Covid.
This is model# 62 in the Rogers collection at the USNA museum, Sadly not all the models were stored or cared for in the manner they deserved but were squirreled away in the attic of Preble Hall and randomly in empty rooms (like boiler rooms) around Campus in the fifties. And only begun to be recovered in recent years. Some were so far gone as to be unrestorable. We got to this one just in time. these were in un-climate controlled conditions for more than 60 years.
This model appears earlier during the restoration process in chapter ten of " The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models At the U.S. Naval Academy Museum
Third Rates Vol. II, by Grant H. Walker, SeaWatch Books

By the way That thread title I got wrong. She's a third rate.

Pete
 
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Much of it remains a mystery. Not just power tools but decent lighting, magnification, it goes on and on. Especially the French prisoner of war models( toys whirly gigs etc.) made of Mutton bone and rigged (in some cases) with strands of their own hair. We've discovered holes drilled that are smaller than a #80 drill bit. Not a clue as to how. Many of
the Admiralty models were rigged and masted at the behest of Col. Rogers, and were originally built "dockyard style".

In the full hull pictures, the restoration is complete. The idea was to bring the model back as far as possible with as much of the original as possible in tact, including the original finish .She was almost all charcoal black with oxidized shellac, the top layer of which had to be carefully removed. The thin remnant was amalgamated and restored. It was not possible (or even desirable) to remove every trace of Blackened patina, or replace the warped and cracked portions of deck. Only to recreate as closely as imaginable the pieces that were missing ,like the poop deck and poop deck bulkhead pictured, and ladders. Similar analogs from models of the same era in the collection were used as models.
the rigging will most likely take a couple of years.
 
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Hello Peter,

Thank you for the reply. The process of restorations such as this are very fascinating to me. I am familiar with the amalgamation process in art restoration to remove old finishes and that is an art in itself. May I ask a question? I am new at ship building and am very interested in the history of ship model construction. It appears that the ship was fully planked. Was the hull built plank on frame?

Thanks,
Bill
 
It was, indeed, built plank on frame with very thick planks over relatively few frames. Much of the spar deck and all decks below are removable to reveal the interior down to the keelson. There is also a removable gallows complete with extra spars. Much of the interior contained details hidden from view without removing the decks. This suggests that the masting and rigging were a later addition. There is also evidence of the model having had more than one attempt at repair. I couldn't call it restoration, as excessive amounts of shellac had been slathered on and much of the attempts at rigging repair were jury rigged. Some with annealed wire.

Bill, Thanks for the good questions.
Pete
 
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All the way from Great Britain! Please forgive Col. Rogers for buying up your national heritage. We're doing our best to maintain it over here. Check out Grant Walker's books on the collection. He's finished with at least three of a planned six volume set (SeaWatch Books).
My work on the hull (keel to the railings) is done. The rest is still in progress, pretty much in the hands of a master of the art of rigging who has drawn out a complete set of plans based upon the best sources of English, French and Continental rigging designs and techniques of the period. He is fastidious and uncompromising in his work. So it looks like its gonna be awhile before it joins the collection with The Ages Of Sail display at the USNA Museum.
 
Hello Peter,

Thank you for posting this thread on the repair of this 300 year old ship model. It must be fascinating work knowing that you are trying your best to preserve the work of the original modeler.

I'd would be interested in learning more about the techniques and materials you are using to preserve this gorgeous model.
For example, what did you use to repair the the corners of the Quarter galleries with and how did you match the neighboring wood color?
Also how did you address the dust issue?
 
Thanks, BMT.
I never served in the military. My dad was in the Navy in WWII. Partly aboard a Destroyer Escort in the North Atlantic in 1944.o_O
I had the freedom to develop and use my skills, while others got drafted and got sent to Vietnam. :oops:
So when I got the opportunity to volunteer my skills and subsequent experience at the Naval Academy Museum workshop a few hours over a couple of days a week, I jumped at the opportunity. It required 2 and 1/2 hours ,round trip from where I live, but worth every minute. My opportunity to say "thanks ' and give back.
Due to time, tide and health challenges , my tour of duty seems to be coming to an end, after about15 years. But , BOY what a great ride! :D

Pete
 
A variety of artists bushes for dusting, Cotton swabs and makeup applicators from the drugstore for cleaning. The secret sauce for cleaning used to be enzyme solution (AKA spit), since replaced with Trewax brand floor wax stripper, which is water soluble, so the strength of it is infinitely variable, to be made as gentle in its effectiveness as desired. I stumbled across its use purely by serendipity years ago.. It cleans, dissolves and amalgamates old shellac finishes without removing the patina ,crackle. color or desired qualities depending on how much you dilute it with water, while still removing the blackened oxidized top layers and dirt ,bit by bit. It has now been adopted by Don Preul, Curator of models at the USNA, as the preferred method for cleaning. I know it doesn't sound very scientific, but it works with no discernable ill effects noted after many years of being employed in this use. Who knew? Only this single brand of cleaner (to my knowledge) works this way. I bought the work shop a lifetime supply. Since it can be so diluted only a half dozen bottles will last for years.
The worm eaten wood damage and rot can be stabilized and hardened with PC-Petrifier brand Wood Hardener. (Water soluble acrylic, DON'T use the solvent based stuff!!!) It soaks right into dry rotted wood and dries over night creating a stable base for wood fillers or putties. I used two part epoxy putty( Comes in a roll in various colors, needed together and modeled like clay ) available on line or at the hardware store. Work time varies, slower is better. Elmer's brand carpenter's water soluble wood putty works very well ,is infinitely workable, and sandable with the virtue of being easily reversable. For coloring I have used Behlen powders mixed with thinned blond shellac , or acrylic water soluble varnish. Even Acrylic artist colors and mediums will serve nicely, are very stable and light fast. Oil artist colors work, are reversable, but are toxic and take forever to dry. In fact, stay away from solvent based stuff altogether (alcohol not as bad). It is toxic and unnecessary in lieu of environmentally friendly and non toxic alternatives.
My techniques and training were acquired on the job, experimentally and through personal study (like asking experts and research and through experience). My work at the Academy all took place under the scrutinizing eyeballs of Don Preul, Curator of Models, and Grant Walker, director of Education at the Academy Museum as well the watchful eyes of a highly experienced crew of long time volunteer model shipwrights.
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Thanks, BMT.
I never served in the military. My dad was in the Navy in WWII. Partly aboard a Destroyer Escort in the North Atlantic in 1944.o_O
I had the freedom to develop and use my skills, while others got drafted and got sent to Vietnam. :oops:
So when I got the opportunity to volunteer my skills and subsequent experience at the Naval Academy Museum workshop a few hours over a couple of days a week, I jumped at the opportunity. It required 2 and 1/2 hours ,round trip from where I live, but worth every minute. My opportunity to say "thanks ' and give back.
Due to time, tide and health challenges , my tour of duty seems to be coming to an end, after about15 years. But , BOY what a great ride! :D

Pete
Click to expand...
Pete, we have something in common besides model ships. I too volunteered to give back and say thanks. 1994 was the 50th anniversary of D-Day. I have studied WW2, especially June 6th for decades. I recognized early on that the invasion of Normandy was one of if not the most significant events in history. The sacrifices made in the Normandy campaign guaranteed that democracy would survive and that I was able to live in freedom. I worked as a tv news cameraman for about 40 years, 27 of those at ABC/WABC in New York. I wanted to show my gratitude to those veterans of D-Day so I called the D-Day organizing committee in Washington, D.C. and offered my skills as a volunteer. To my surprise they called me and asked me if I was still interested in volunteering. I didn’t hesitate and they asked me to do a PSA with Cliff Robertson, of PT 109 movie fame, that ultimately didn’t happen but then they asked if I would record a different PSA with Ossie Davis, famed star of film and Broadway. The Army Officer who was my contact said that he would bring Ossie up to my home and we could record it in our home based studio. He eventually wound up coming to my home twice. I’ve never really been star struck but having Ossie Davis performing in my home, giving back to the veterans of D-Day was and is one of the best moments of my career.
 
Hi HPeterB, What a wonderful story! I too am an admirer of Ossie Davis. Thankyou for performing this invaluable service in memory of our father's sacrifices.
Democracy is not gauranteed. The work goes on. Every generation has to protect, defend and nurture it. The WWII generation certainly set the bar.
Thank you too Rick!
Pete
 
Peter Gutterman said:
A variety of artists bushes for dusting, Cotton swabs and makeup applicators from the drugstore for cleaning. The secret sauce for cleaning used to be enzyme solution (AKA spit), since replaced with Trewax brand floor wax stripper, which is water soluble, so the strength of it is infinitely variable, to be made as gentle in its effectiveness as desired. I stumbled across its use purely by serendipity years ago.. It cleans, dissolves and amalgamates old shellac finishes without removing the patina ,crackle. color or desired qualities depending on how much you dilute it with water, while still removing the blackened oxidized top layers and dirt ,bit by bit. It has now been adopted by Don Preul, Curator of models at the USNA, as the preferred method for cleaning. I know it doesn't sound very scientific, but it works with no discernable ill effects noted after many years of being employed in this use. Who knew? Only this single brand of cleaner (to my knowledge) works this way. I bought the work shop a lifetime supply. Since it can be so diluted only a half dozen bottles will last for years.
The worm eaten wood damage and rot can be stabilized and hardened with PC-Petrifier brand Wood Hardener. (Water soluble acrylic, DON'T use the solvent based stuff!!!) It soaks right into dry rotted wood and dries over night creating a stable base for wood fillers or putties. I used two part epoxy putty( Comes in a roll in various colors, needed together and modeled like clay ) available on line or at the hardware store. Work time varies, slower is better. Elmer's brand carpenter's water soluble wood putty works very well ,is infinitely workable, and sandable with the virtue of being easily reversable. For coloring I have used Behlen powders mixed with thinned blond shellac , or acrylic water soluble varnish. Even Acrylic artist colors and mediums will serve nicely, are very stable and light fast. Oil artist colors work, are reversable, but are toxic and take forever to dry. In fact, stay away from solvent based stuff altogether (alcohol not as bad). It is toxic and unnecessary in lieu of environmentally friendly and non toxic alternatives.
My techniques and training were acquired on the job, experimentally and through personal study (like asking experts and research and through experience). My work at the Academy all took place under the scrutinizing eyeballs of Don Preul, Curator of Models, and Grant Walker, director of Education at the Academy Museum as well the watchful eyes of a highly experienced crew of long time volunteer model shipwrights.
Click to expand...
Hello Peter,

Thank you very much for sharing your techniques with us.
The treatment of wood rot and worm damage is of great interest to me as I have a few very old items that have that damage. I've tried to think of ways to stabilize the wood and fill in the missing cellulose due to the worms.

I look forward to the continued progress of this models restoration.
 
Gents,
With lots of photos and some good, solid technical information, this would make a great book! Some years back I slightly helped with some material in the shop. They ran a model ship symposium which was fantastic. They had just begun using a medical camera inside a model. Examining another ship we inadvertently released a catch and the ship launched itself down the display base shipway. Ever see 5 or 6 guys have a heart attack at the same time? I bet there are a lot of secrets and surprises to be discovered and techniques to be learned. All a fascinating glimpse into the past!
Best of luck with the project!
 
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