Adhesives for thin planks

[Steviedean]

Hi,
This is a SOS!
I'm trying to plank the outer bulwarks of my Artesania Latina Swift. The detail packed instructions said to use contact glue. I need 10 strips to complete both sides, I have 11 left. Well I masked off the model, applied good old well bond contact cement to the bulwark side and one side of a fitted ( to a degree ) plank. That's seems to be a poor choice, sticks to quick, too easy to break (trying to align it) and all the glue slop that got onto the outer side of the plank.
Extremely frustrated.
Send help please.....
Thank you,
Steviedean

 

[Bryian]

Why not use white carpenters wood glue (PVA ) ?

 

[PT-2]

Why not use white carpenters wood glue (PVA ) ?

I don't know the curvature that is needed for these planks but I made it a practice to use denatured alcohol to moisten and then gently bend them to fit with my electric bending iron. A good fit solved the seating problems and reduced the glue with some clamps holding it in place for a short period. As you are in the home stretch you may be past the greatest bending needs. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)

 

[Steviedean]

Why not use white carpenters wood glue (PVA ) ?

Hi Brian,
Thanks, not as simple as that. It's more of a kit specific question. A wirey thin strip of wood that needs to bend but wouldn't hold a gentle wetted, ironed curve. But needs to form that dam curve....and hold as it is applied.
My first build......I did what the meager instructions suggested and got kicked in the gleuts instead......
BTY, about 90%of that kit has been assembled with Elmers carpenters glue thinned a little.
I do appreciate your response,
Thank you.
Steviedean

 

[Steviedean]

I don't know the curvature that is needed for these planks but I made it a practice to use denatured alcohol to moisten and then gently bend them to fit with my electric bending iron. A good fit solved the seating problems and reduced the glue with some clamps holding it in place for a short period. As you are in the home stretch you may be past the greatest bending needs. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)

Hi Rich,
Roger your procedure......when that failed, I referred to the "why did they bother" instructions-which induced my frustrationzzzzzz!
Appreciate your reply.
Steviedean

 

[PT-2]

Hi Rich,
Roger your procedure......when that failed, I referred to the "why did they bother" instructions-which induced my frustrationzzzzzz!
Appreciate your reply.
Steviedean

There was an earlier video of a Russian using white glue and an iron to gently bend on and holding thin veneers. Perhaps you can search that out and see if it assists you. One of our SoS members will likely know of that posting and provide it. Rich

 

[Jimsky]

There was an earlier video of a Russian using white glue and an iron to gently bend on and holding thin veneers. Perhaps you can search that out and see if it assists you. One of our SoS members will likely know of that posting and provide it. Rich

Hello, Steviedean, Here is the video, Rich talking about, I hope so...

Piroscaf - 28-foot Steam Cutter (1876) in scale 1:24 by Piroscaf Scale Models

Hello, Don. Thermoforming is to use a heat while form (bend or twist) the planks. Russians are happily use cloth or soldering iron to apply heat. It is two step process: - wet\soak the planks in the water, - while the planks are wet apply heat (iron) to form

shipsofscale.com

 

[PT-2]

Hello, Steviedean, Here is the video, Rich talking about, I hope so...

Piroscaf - 28-foot Steam Cutter (1876) in scale 1:24 by Piroscaf Scale Models

Hello, Don. Thermoforming is to use a heat while form (bend or twist) the planks. Russians are happily use cloth or soldering iron to apply heat. It is two step process: - wet\soak the planks in the water, - while the planks are wet apply heat (iron) to form

shipsofscale.com

That video is one but my memory's eye has him using white glue and a small electric soldering iron type of tool to set each strip by bending it and setting it with the white glue at the same time. Many optional techniques are out there. Rich

 

[Uwek]

Ironing is often used during the planking job, especially by modelers of kits like from Master Krabel and others with the thin pre-cut planking.
There should be several videos showing this available

Or ....

 

[Philski]

So..most of you stay away from CA? PVA's and White glue all require clamping to work properly. I cannot imagine using contact cement at all.....

 

[Jimsky]

So..most of you stay away from CA? PVA's and White glue all require clamping to work properly. I cannot imagine using contact cement at all.....

We have different shipbuilding schools and accustomed techniques popular there. But I would never use contact cement for planking. I prefer to use wood glue (PVA-based) for all woodworking jobs. In the planking job, I would use CA at the extreme curve areas only to hold the plank in place.

 

[PT-2]

We have different shipbuilding schools and accustomed techniques popular there. But I would never use contact cement for planking. I prefer to use wood glue (PVA-based) for all woodworking jobs. In the planking job, I would use CA at the extreme curve areas only to hold the plank in place.

We have different shipbuilding schools and accustomed techniques popular there. But I would never use contact cement for planking. I prefer to use wood glue (PVA-based) for all woodworking jobs. In the planking job, I would use CA at the extreme curve areas only to hold the plank in place.

The only time that I used fast setting CA was while setting the interior ribs in my two strip canoes as those had to be held with fingers until set. Sometimes that had to be redone as the rib was out of line with the opposite or not I the center location desired. Otherwise for planking decks or hulls it is TightBond and clamps that secure pre-bent/formed strips that work best for me. That way they only have to sit in place. Rich (PT-2)

 

[mallacoota]

I planked the Caldercraft Endeavour which has a fully bluff bow by dipping the straight plank in water for a minute, then gently rubbing an electric soldering iron (using the side of the tip) on the wet plank while bending it with my left hand. I curved the planks right around nearly 90 degrees and with a compound twist in about 10 or 20 seconds. As long as they are wet they dont break and will bend as much as you want under the side of the iron.You have to dip them a couple of times. Then as almost no tension clamping is required you can use quality PVA and just enough tape or rubber bands to hold it for 10 minutes. I would never use contact adhesive...too unforgiving for a klutz like me. And for perfectly irrational reasons I hate CA and only use it as a knot locker and occasionally small assemblies. Some pics below of all planking using a 40W soldering iron and a bucket of water and PVA.

John

 

[PT-2]

I planked the Caldercraft Endeavour which has a fully bluff bow by dipping the straight plank in water for a minute, then gently rubbing an electric soldering iron (using the side of the tip) on the wet plank while bending it with my left hand. I curved the planks right around nearly 90 degrees and with a compound twist in about 10 or 20 seconds. As long as they are wet they dont break and will bend as much as you want under the side of the iron.You have to dip them a couple of times. Then as almost no tension clamping is required you can use quality PVA and just enough tape or rubber bands to hold it for 10 minutes. I would never use contact adhesive...too unforgiving for a klutz like me. And for perfectly irrational reasons I hate CA and only use it as a knot locker and occasionally small assemblies. Some pics below of all planking using a 40W soldering iron and a bucket of water and PVA.

John

Very nicely formed and laid down. It looks very good. Well done. Rich (PT-2)

 

[Steviedean]

Hi all,
First off, I appreciate all the replies and different approaches to the issue of planking.
This is my first build-I was dam frustrated trying to apply the "second layer" of ultra thin and super dry veneer. After a decent night of sleep, I came up with a solution-cheap purple glue stick.
I coat the area on the ship, let it get semi-dry, fit strip, coat the back and install the strip, rubbing into place as the glue dries.
It works and reasonabley fast.
Thanks again,
Steviedean

 

[Uwek]

Hi all,
First off, I appreciate all the replies and different approaches to the issue of planking.
This is my first build-I was dam frustrated trying to apply the "second layer" of ultra thin and super dry veneer. After a decent night of sleep, I came up with a solution-cheap purple glue stick.
I coat the area on the ship, let it get semi-dry, fit strip, coat the back and install the strip, rubbing into place as the glue dries.
It works and reasonabley fast.
Thanks again,
Steviedean

I am crossing the fingers, that this glue will also stick over a longer time period and not only for a certain time......

 

[Philski]

Hi all,
First off, I appreciate all the replies and different approaches to the issue of planking.
This is my first build-I was dam frustrated trying to apply the "second layer" of ultra thin and super dry veneer. After a decent night of sleep, I came up with a solution-cheap purple glue stick.
I coat the area on the ship, let it get semi-dry, fit strip, coat the back and install the strip, rubbing into place as the glue dries.
It works and reasonabley fast.
Thanks again,
Steviedean

I have never heard of the 'purple stick glue' - is it a form of contact cement?

 

[Philski]

I planked the Caldercraft Endeavour which has a fully bluff bow by dipping the straight plank in water for a minute, then gently rubbing an electric soldering iron (using the side of the tip) on the wet plank while bending it with my left hand. I curved the planks right around nearly 90 degrees and with a compound twist in about 10 or 20 seconds. As long as they are wet they dont break and will bend as much as you want under the side of the iron.You have to dip them a couple of times. Then as almost no tension clamping is required you can use quality PVA and just enough tape or rubber bands to hold it for 10 minutes. I would never use contact adhesive...too unforgiving for a klutz like me. And for perfectly irrational reasons I hate CA and only use it as a knot locker and occasionally small assemblies. Some pics below of all planking using a 40W soldering iron and a bucket of water and PVA.

John

So far, I have totally used CA glues to do my build. I bend the planks after steaming and clamp them in forms to allow to fully dry. They hold their shape nicely. CA is a bit of a pain but I developed my technique to use it easily. I use an accelerator spray to cause the parts to grab quickly. I have made mistakes and had to chisel the occasion goof off the hull and re-apply but it works well for me. I have used Titebond PVA glues extensively in woodworking and they required at least a 1/2 hour setup at the very minimum with clamping applied. They're designed to work that way. They do provide a lot of open time to futz with the fits before clamping. I usually leave PVA adhered parts to dry at least 3 hours. For this reason, I went with CA. It would take me forever to build anything if I had to include that wait time.

 

[donfarr]

BE CAREFUL OF THAT METHOD LIKE UWE SAID HOW LONG WILL IT HOLD, ANOTHER METHOD THAT I HAVE FOUND INDISPESIBLE IS AS MANY OF THE RUSSIAN MODELERS DO IS TO USE THE SOLDERING IRON ON THE VENERRS WORKS LIKE A CHARM YOU WET THE PLANK NOT HEAT OR FOR BENDING THE WATER ACTS LIKE AN ACCELARETOR FOR THE GLUE IF YOU WANT MORE INFO ON THIS GO TO HEINRICHS BUILD OF THE LEUDO ON SOS EXPLAINS IT IN DETAIL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON

 

[Philski]

I am crossing the fingers, that this glue will also stick over a longer time period and not only for a certain time......

When it comes to CA longevity, for me, its a wait and see what happens. I think it'll hold and remai viable for a long time.