Anthony's 1/48th scale HMS Blandford [COMPLETED BUILD]

A

Anthony1

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i have been getting some tools and things together for my HMS blandford build , i had the plans printed at my local kinko's and i am trying to source some wood , looking at the plans , and reading some of the build logs i know that i need to check the measurements of the prints, so my first question is , how?
i had the base printed on 11 x 17 paper and i found some measurements in a build log but mine aren't the same , how do i know what is right?
 
When you go to a printing store, it is VERY important that they print to “actual size” and not “fit to paper”. This can cause a lot of bad problems. There should be a scale at bottom of plans for the jig. I assume you are talking about the jig, right?
 
Hi Anthony, welcome to the group, as Donnie said the drawings need to be printed actual size when printed, if they were all printed at the same time on the same printer, they will be fine for the exercise.

The drawings sets are available at two different scales, 1:48 and 1:32 you may have been looking at drawing at a different scale than yours in the log you were looking at.

After the frames and keel are built and installed in the building jig it is a good idea to leave the deck beams a little extra long and fit each one to your model to get a good fit.

If you need any help, we will be happy to answer your questions, have fun.

Mike
 
actually i think it was your log that i was looking at and at some point you gave measurements from the outside of former 1 to the outside of former 9 and it is different to what i was getting, i printed the 8.5 x 11 on my laser printer at work ,actual size not fit to page and the larger prints were from kinko's , the scales on the bottom of each drawing are exactly 2 inches , so everything should be ok ? also the measurement of the plank that the formers are cut out from measure what it says on the page 8 x 2 i think.
i printed both sets of 11 x 17 drawings at kinkos and asked them to be printed at 100% i also assume this is ok . i wasn't and am still not 100% sure which scale i want to do but leaning heavily to 1:48
 
so i held the drawing of the base and one of the deck up to the light one on top of the other and they match , so again , i'm assuming that everything should be ok
 
After the prototype was built I made several revisions to the drawings, you may have seen an old dimension that has been revised. The drawings you downloaded are the latest and most accurate. They should be ok.
Mike
 
In addition to Mikes information:

If you are building the 1:48, then the 0 to 1' major tick mark should be exactly 1/4 inches.
For instance the 1:48 scale only example. The full length on scale 10' should measure 2 1/2 on a ruler. If not, then the printer or print settings were not set to ACTUAL SIZE.
 
One note to remember when measuring and cutting pieces.

There were some error in Bill of Material (BOM) listing in both scales at first, many were corrected.

But as told more than once in build logs, always use plan measurements if difference than what BOM lists for part size.

You build from plans and model, BOM is for reference.
 
well the good news is that the scale on my drawings measure exactly 2.5 inches , so i'm good there, to be honest i thought that the bom was just a guide as to what wood to use and i haven't really looked at it properly yet , i started my modelling career (well hobby) with model aeroplanes , many moons ago so i am ok with building from plans , but i will need some guidance along the way as wood selection is totally foreign to me , like i have said in other posts , i have built ship models from kits but i have always wanted to try my hand at scratch building , this project is an ideal stepping stone to bigger things so i am really looking forward to it .
I also tend to work on one project at a time and i am currently working on a corel endeavour , so it is unusual for me to have two things on the go at once , but like i said i am quite excited by this project so i will be dipping in to it while finishing the endeavour .
now that i have everything sorted out in my mind it is time for the wood selection , so i will defer to your knowledge with help with this part of the build , all i know is i like rich coloured wood but dont know the names of any of them, i did order the cherry wood for the canoe build so i will find out what thats like when it arrives other than that i am open to suggestion. sorry for the long post, sometimes i ramble a bit , any way thank you for all the advice
 
Hi Anthony,
I have had a rough week with little time to invest in members. I am like you that I only like to work on one project at a time. The Blandford was "originally" meant as a first-time scratch project. But now that I am over halfway finished with it, I can say that It really does stretch my abilities (and I am sure to get a tongue lashing from Mike). The project was also meant to be experimental and not for people to take it so seriously but supposed to be a fun project to play around with.
As far as wood goes, a lot of people are using Cherry and Pear. I used Birch on all of mine. Usually, a "proper" admiralty ship should be built using all the same wood. There are some that will disagree. American and European builders do things differently. I used a little stain on my Pillars to help make them stand out a little.
I am also going to add you to my Private Blandford PM list so that when I run into problems with lumber sizes or Patterns or plans problems, I will post them there. However, my post is about the 1/32 build.
Take your measurements off the plans and you will do well.
Lastly, I can not remember. Do you want to be a part of being Sponsored by Dave Stevens 'the lumberyard' I am not sure if you meet the qualifications, but I can put in a word - it just means that you will have to have The Lumberyards logo and link in your signature. You will NOT get all your wood at one time. Dave Stevens will only send out sections at a time. This is the only downside of the sponsorship program. If Dave allows you to be sponsored by him, then what will happen is that you will first get just enough lumber (planks) to make the frames first. Then after the frames are built, then he will send you the next shipment. However, you will have to tell him what is next. He does not keep a Bill of Materials on hand for the Blandford. However, this is just an idea. You might want to consider ordering all your lumber at one time from him.
 
hi Donnie,
as far as the wood goes , did you order on piece and rip into the sizes you needed or order planks of the right thickness and size ? as to sponsorship , i am not sure what i need to be qualified and not sure how that would work ,however if it helps Dave out to have his logo in my signature then i don't mind at all having it there without the sponsorship , not sure it would be right anyway , i haven't actually ordered anything from him yet, but i do plan on doing just that once i have worked out what i need for this project
 
Anthony after checking with our other Admin, I am not sure either about your qualifications on sponsorship. The best approach ( I personally believe ) is to order your wood to complete the project. To answer your question, if you have a mini-table saw like a Proxxon, Micro-Mark, or Byrnes, then yes, you can rip your own pieces. For the most part, this is what I did.
For instance, if all of my beams are 1/4" thick (example). Then I would order 3" x 12" x 1/4" plank(s). ok, so if the beams are 3/8" wide, then I just rip off as many beams as I need. This way you have more control over the EXACT dimensions. Sometimes, the milled lumber might be a little different from piece to piece from a hobby store. With your own saw, you can get the cut tolerance as tight as you wish.
These are just some of the ups and downs of scratch building. It does take a few more power tools to get things done.
However, you can still order wood from Dave at the lumberyard. Just get together your list and just order everything you need. I think he is very reasonable on Cherry as he has a lot of it. Pear is a little harder to come by and a little costlier.
Since Mike first designed and laid out the 1/47, his Bill of Materials for that scale might be right on.
If you do not have one, a power scroll saw is a must. Unless you have a jewlers saw and that is possible, but can take more time. I have a drill press and I bought some sanding wheels and converted by drill press as a spindle sander. I think Harbor Freight has a package of different size wheels.
 
i recently got a micro mark table saw and a porter cable band saw and being a jeweler i have a saw , so i am as setup as i need to be for now , i would like to get a scroll saw and spindle sander but that will have to wait until funds allow , probably Christmas present to myself later in the year , thanks for the info , going to look into the wood selection now
 
i wanted to see if i was able to cut out the frame parts so as a test i cut the first one , it didn't take too long and i think it came out ok , my next hurdle is going to be sanding the inside of the frame , any suggestions on what to use?20200725_161225.jpg20200725_161230.jpg
 
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