Bluenose II Build (Artesania Latina) 1:75 by Nomad [Completed Build]

RDN1954 said:
Can't say I ever tried to make scuppers, but all of the available methods are, IMHO, full of risk;
- Inside-out: risk of damaging one's decks, drill angle not parallel to deck or normal to planks.
- Outside-in: risk of damaging one's decks, scuppers to high or to low.
- Off ship: risk of misaligned scuppers, both horizontally (stansions) and vertically (decks).
Once came across a solution where the scuppers were printed (white) on (black) paper and glued to the ship's hull. From a normal viewpoint rather convincing, only a close inspection would reveal the truth.
For those who succeeded with their selected/preferred method: chapeau! That includes you, Mark; consistent in dimensions and positions, at least as far as I can see; very nicely done.
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Ok, I feel better now that I know it was fraught with risk :). AL actually provide a template with which to mark out the scupper slots; a small square of wood with two pre-cut holes which hangs from the top of the bulwarks to provide the position of the scupper hole. You slide it along, placing one of the template slots over the scupper just marked to position the next scupper hole, and so on. It looks good in theory, but it is a bit fiddly and also assumes that you have got every other measurement to that point (deck, bulwarks) exactly correct. And some of AL's measurements must also be taken with a bucket of salt - note the '70mm' (nearly 3 inches) in the large picture at the bottom left. Way out :p

scupper_template[1].jpg
 
I have been looking forward to constructing the bowsprit, to me one of the most attractive aspects of a sailing ship. First things first though, the assembly of the samson post and bowsprit bitts to support the bowsprit on the foredeck.

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The key to this procedure was to keep everything lined up with the centre of the deck, the mast openings, and the bowsprit opening at the stem.

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Contrary to instructions, I kept the bowsprit itself loose for the time being. There seems to be too much work ahead with stays and tighteners to warrant cementing the bowsprit to the bracket just yet.

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Nomad said:
I have been looking forward to constructing the bowsprit, to me one of the most attractive aspects of a sailing ship. First things first though, the assembly of a bracket to support the bowsprit on the foredeck.

View attachment 263988

The key to this procedure was to keep everything lined up with the centre of the deck, the mast openings, and the bowsprit opening at the stem.

View attachment 263989

Contrary to instructions, I kept the bowsprit itself loose for the time being. There seems to be too much work ahead with stays and tighteners to warrant cemeting the bowsprit to the bracket just yet.

View attachment 263990
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NIce clean work up here on the bow. Interesting idea to add your "rubbing strakes" which are different than hull strengthening strakes called wales. You gave her a clean new line and appearance. Rich (PT-2)
 
The walnut rails and rail covers were cut, shaped and dyed before installation. The arms of the stern rail cover, in particular, required a couple of additional strips on either side in order to align flush with the inner bulwarks. The holes for the belaying pins sat precariously close to the edges of the wood and were hand-drilled, very cautiously, starting with a .5mm bit and progressing proportionally to the full 1.5mm diameter.

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All the rails and rail covers were glued to the bulwarks and stanchions using my trusty Gorilla white glue, interspersed with dabs of CA glue for peace of mind.

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The trick to laying the foredeck rails was to have them protrude just enough over the outer bulwarks to allow the chain plates to pass through their slots and hang freely on the outside of the hull. At least I hope that is the trick.

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I dyed all the walnut pieces with an oil-based walnut dye, which, ironically, was the only dye I had on hand. The effect was satisfactory, however, and gave the original walnut a darker and slightly weathered look.

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The monkey rails along the quarter deck required a small degree of tapering to meet flush with the slightly thinner rail at the stern.

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The buffalo rail at the stem was made of basswood and was the last of the rails to be installed. I was obliged to touch up the black paint on the hull in places where I had been over-enthusiastic with the glue and dye, and, once dry, I finished off by coating all the rails and rail covers with a clear satin varnish.

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The windlass was a fun little piece of machinery. The main body was made of cast metal, the axle solid brass and the pulleys aluminium, all assembled and mounted onto a walnut base.

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I used truncated brass pins in the mounting holes to give it that 'bolted down' look, and, as with other cast metal parts of the model, I buffed the each piece with light steel wool before applying a metal polish and finally a clear varnish to maintain the sheen.

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Add the axle, double bollard, central and side pulleys, heave it on board and the windlass is ready to go :)

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