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Bowdoin 1/48 Bluejacket

  • Thread starter Thread starter ubjs
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ubjs

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Here I thought I would show my attempts to get this boat together.
I started construction several years ago. Parts list is updated 25/5 2015 so I don't know if the content is the same today. The boat is built with frames and a layer of planks. It is a long way between the frames, but the entire hull must be painted and the planks are thick. Will return shortly with pictures showing how she looks now. It's time to start planking the hull.

Looks like I have to sand more on the frame before I plank.

bowdoin1.jpgbowdoin2.jpg
 
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Sanded the frame and tried to bend two wooden strips. Let them soak for 10 minutes and then ¨lock¨ the bend with a plank bender. Will sand and glue tomorrow.


bowdoin3.jpg
 
That’s an interesting looking hull.
May I suggest that, before you affix those planks, you attend to the fit around the stem, and the Garbo and planks? Rebating those planks to produce a smooth and fitted hull is key to success. I’ve just written about the same thing in the thread

USS Constellation 1797 Build Log...​

At comment #14. I think the same comment there applies to your build.

Jim
 
The instructions are quite detailed so I think I will follow them. You must put 5 planks from the top and then start planking from below.
What is not visible in my pictures is that there is a rabbet, both in the bow and along the keel and largely in the stern. The planks are 2 mm thick. The kit is originally an old construction from Laughing Whale.
I think I recognize most of it from this excellent build log:

modelshipworld.com

Bowdoin by John Ruy - FINISHED - Laughing Whale - 1/48 Scale - Arctic Exploration Schooner

The schooner Bowdoin was designed by William H. Hand, Jr., and built in 1921, in East Boothbay, Maine at the Hodgdon Brothers Shipyard. She is the only American schooner built specifically for Arctic exploration, and was designed under the direction of explorer Donald B. MacMillian. She has made ...
modelshipworld.com modelshipworld.com
 
5 from the top to stabilise the shape, then work from the keel - sounds very sensible.
As do 2mm planks. A bit of meat in the timber explains the apparent wide spacing of the bulkheads, and rabbets would be needed to accommodate the material at the join.

You seem set up to go. Take some time, and be sure to edge trim the planks to get a tight fit between each plank.

J
 
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