Brass photo-etchs treatment for blackening

D

Dematosdg

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Hi all

What treatment(s) do you do to your kit brass photo-etch parts for blackening ?

I think they are cover with "something" to protect the brass for years to come. The blackening chemicals i tried are not working directly on them. I tried Acetone and then a soft sanding before blackening, but still is not working.

I am sure i am doing something wrong to remove that protection coat.

Can you guys tell me what do you do to your brass photo etched parts before applying a blackening chemical ?

Thank you !!!
Daniel
 
Y.T. said:
This stuff works. Jewellers use it. It has to be warm at about 50 degrees C in order to perform the best.
View attachment 171645
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Great thank you. I ordered it from Amazon right away.

Do you add it to 50 C water ?

I was reading i will need cooper tongs to handle my brass pieces.

Can you please tell me how do you handle all the proces ?

Thank you !!!
 
Yes. You need copper tongues as Spirex is an acid and will react with other metals but copper. You would dilute the crystals from the bag with water in proportions indicated on the bag. Do it in glass or ceramic jar (you can keep it in it after use indefinitely for reusing). I put copper and brass parts into solution and warm up whole thing on stove top till I feel it is warm enough. Ensure you do not over warm it. If you get it to boiling it will make a mess. Take parts out as they look completely clean. Have a jar with baking soda solution just beside. Drop the parts into soda straight from acid jar. This neutrolizes the acid. Take parts out, dry them up on paper towel. I put them into blackening Jax solution right away. I use this process for removing flux after copper soldering. It works perfect.
 
Last edited:
Y.T. said:
Yes. You need copper tongues as Spirex is an acid and will react with other metals but copper. You would dilute the crystals from the bag with water in proportions indicated on the bag. Do it in glass or ceramic jar (you can keep it in it after use indefinitely for reusing). I put copper and brass parts into solution and warm up whole thing on stove top till I feel it is warm enough. Ensure you do not over warm it. If you get it to boiling it will make a mess. Take parts out as they look completely clean. Have a jar with baking soda solution just beside. Drop the parts into soda straight from acid jar. This neutrolizes the acid. Take parts out, dry them up on paper towel. I put them into blackening Jax solution right away. I use this process for removing flux after copper soldering. It works perfect.
Click to expand...

Thank you !!!!!!!!!

Daniel
 
Spirex is a break through in solderingf flux cleaning as it is manufactured in dry granules and is safe to ship. I understand before its invention jewellers were using some acids as sulphure acid which is not available in dry granules and therefore prohibited to mail.
 
Brian077 said:
Great advice here from Y.T, thank you.
I just rinse my brass photo etch in thinners then rinse with water. After its dry I submerge in Casy black solution for a few minutes, stirring every 30 seconds until it turns black.
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Brian

Any particular thinner ?

Thanks
Daniel
 
You have received several suggestions, but I'll throw one more out there.
I have found this product to be very effective. And it should be available at your local NAPA parts store.
fullsizeoutput_18e.jpeg
One last reminder....These products can be pretty aggressive.!! Most are acid based, so neutralize with a 'base' solution like baking soda and then rinse completely with clean water before going to your blackening solution. I use and recommend Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Completely immerse in the solution. It smells a little..... Sometimes it takes a little time (it's not always an 'instant' thing..).
Good luck..
 
Hobbit99 said:
You have received several suggestions, but I'll throw one more out there.
I have found this product to be very effective. And it should be available at your local NAPA parts store.
View attachment 172049
One last reminder....These products can be pretty aggressive.!! Most are acid based, so neutralize with a 'base' solution like baking soda and then rinse completely with clean water before going to your blackening solution. I use and recommend Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Completely immerse in the solution. It smells a little..... Sometimes it takes a little time (it's not always an 'instant' thing..).
Good luck..
Click to expand...

Thank you !!!!
Daniel
 
Maarten said:
I also have to order the bigger bottle for brass, ran out of mine. Works very good better t han the one of Krick which I used before.
Click to expand...
Ha Ha - I used also the stuff from Krick and had the same experience - so make an investment - one bottle is enough for soooommmmme time
 
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