Brigantine Phoenix, by Master Korabel [COMPLETED BUILD]

[moreplovac]

Continue with work on blocks; there are appr 20+ blocks needed, with a pin inserted into each block.

From here ..... to here...



Removing them all from the frames and cutting extras..



Sanding the pin and removing laser cut burns..



The pins were cut from the wire provided in the kit.. Blocks, pins, blocks with inserted pins and completed block. Next is to clean laser burns from the sides..





The pins were inserted in all blocks, now i need to sand the laser burns at the sides of each block..



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Today i continue with block installation; drilling a pilot hole in already completed inner bulwark was a bit of a challenge. A drip of carpenter' glue was added on block and block inserted in the pilot hole. Clamp helped with making sure block stays in the right position.





Also, i have drilled holes and inserted pins, more decorative than actual functional actually.. Wanted to round the visible end of the pin but was not able to do so when items are on the ship. Next time, make sure you do it before mounting, just a mental note to myself..









Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

Just to correct myself, those nice ship parts i kept calling blocks are actually cleats.. Still learning english nautical terms...

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

I have received brass pipes i will be using to make scuppers; they are 3cm in length and 2,3,4mm in diameter.. I will be using 2mm.

First i tried this approach: slide in a pipe into drilled hole, using pencil mark the deck shape which shows brass to be removed; remove pipe, sand the area and stick it in...



From the outer end, cut the reminder of pipe, fill empty space around the pipe and sand it.. There will be a bit of a touch up painting needed.



I see the light....





Then i deceived to take different approach since i did not like lots of wood filler in use. Smaller diameter hole, the pipe was hammered thru (of course in very controlled manner) and shape the sticking side of the pipe..





With a less damage to the structure this ended up being better approach...

The hole was a bit wider and needed to be filled with piece of wood and CA glue to keep all in place...



This approach was used on all other scuppers, hopefully they will not be that better looking than the first one, in which case i need to replace it...



Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

The scuppers are completed. A bit of a touch up is required but overall i am pleased with the result.











Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Started to work on assembly the ship's wheel.. All parts removed from the frame, the wheel' axle ends were rounded a bit. I wanted to replace the veneer ring with a brass one but i am unable to make one without lathe. So the ring was painted in silver instead.







My rope box was pulled out, some older rope ends were used for wheel rope..







And mounted on the ship...



During wheel assembly, there was a need to make up few glue dispensers... i cannot take credit for this one but it is very useful when it is time to reach some parts that are very small or narrow. The extension is made of Q-Tips but they have to have plastic handle.



The stick is then put above the heat source and slowly stretched to correct length... Very useful and affordable.



Then i made a hand ropes. For this i am going to use a crochet rope to test its usage...



All seizing are simulated with strangle knot.





And completed..





I will see how these hand ropes colour blends with the rest of the ropes and if they are sticking unusually out, will either colour them or replace with other ropes...

Then i installed keel block for a ship boat...



Just testing...



The eye bolts were painted in primer first and a layer of black paint was applied... These will be installed around masts on the deck..



Happy modelling..

 

[Heinrich]

Great work. With all the deck fittings, she is really shaping up nicely now.

 

[moreplovac]

Great work. With all the deck fittings, she is really shaping up nicely now.

Thanks;

yeah, she is close to become a real ship

 

[moreplovac]

I am pretty sure none of us here were able to enjoy Titanic in real, full potentials but here is a virtual tour of it. It will soon become a computer game but for time being, enjoy the really awesome graphics..

 

[Jimsky]

Absolutely incredible! Many thanks for sharing with us!!

 

[moreplovac]

Here is 2hrs video, covering the whole ship...

 

[moreplovac]

More eyebolts needed, very simple process...





Blackened and polished.



On the ship...


The kit instructions as well as ship plans do not call for binnacle stays but kit does include it so let put it on the deck. Assembly went fine, all parts are good and easy to put together....



I decided to replace the hand rail ropes i installed lately; the cotton colour (beige) did not quite fit the ship to my liking so i soak ropes in dark brown textile paint for about 3 minutes, and installed on the ship as hand rails as well as ropes that tie binnacle to the ship.

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

The work on the ship continues with belaying pin rack... simply to assembly, the rack will be secured with two pins.. Today i will try danish oil as an finish, after a coat of nature stain and golden oak stain was applied..







And the windlass is next... All parts for windlass are in one small plastic bag, very convenient and safe since they are very fragile.. lots of staining, cutting, sanding, fitting... This is different approach in building a windlass when i compare it with my Sultana build, which was all almost from scratch..






For dark wood i used dark oak stain, wanted to see if i can get a contrast between "moving" windlass parts and stationary parts..
All parts are easy to remove and required just a bit of sanding, very much like plastic plane models from well known manufacturers..



The toothpick is here to keep all parts together..






















Happy modelling...

 

[moreplovac]

Belaying pin racks installed..



Pins will be dropped in later but every pin needs to be cleaned of a burr that was left on the bottom... no a big deal just it will be visible if not removed..



The windlass was installed first by testing its position and drilling two holes for pins that will be "holding" it to the deck.. mounted on the deck afterwards. It is slightly difficult to remove extra wire from simulated pin once windlass is in position so i tried to push the wire in as much as possible and still to have some amount sticking out for visibility.





The windlass was put in position after the ship bell was mounted as well since it has to have correct position on the deck.
So, now to the bell. This part was really interesting. I wanted to actually have a fully workable bell (with a sound) but it was not possible due to the nature of simulated bell. Well, it is actually simulating...
To make it as close as possible as a real bell, i added a dinger, made out of the wire that goes thru the top of the bell and into the wooden part. The end of this wire was twisted and squeezed in attempt to simulate a dinger as close as possible. With this scale appears to be simulating nicely..







Then the axel was inserted; since i already have a bell handle going thru the yoke, was unable to insert an axel all the way thru so i cut the axle in two pieces. Before that, proper hole was drilled all the way thru the yoke and bell rocker.



Then the bell was inserted and axle was pushed thru one side of the yoke..



Same was done for the other side.



And bell functionality was tested, without sound...







The extra wire from axle was removed and ends were finished...



The completed bell looks like this:



It will go on the ship next..

For fun, i started inserting pins into racks...




Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Caboose pipe was assembled and installed on the ship, after being blackened and polished...



Ship anchors were attacked next. The rings were made of 0.6mm wire. The rods were removed from the frame..



There was a small gap between rod and anchor i have filled with a small piece of wood...





The anchor was glued to rod and rod was sanded to remove laser burns.





Then the ring was inserted into anchor and glued to stay in place.



Then i started to wind a thread around the ring, and periodically fix it with a glue..













Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

The pins were installed into anchor's rode... a bit of a CA was applied to holes before...



Cut extras and sanded...



A layer of stain was applied...



The ring were simulated with plastic sheet, 0.2mm thick and covered with black paint.. i could have used paper as well, but wanted to test the plastic.





In one of the ship builder' video i noticed that builder simulated bolts of the guns's breech eyebolts out of a piece of brass wire, 1mm thick. Not sure if this is historically accurate as i did not see any traces of it on the plan or instructions, but decided to do it as it appears to be nice addition to overall ship appearance.

First, starting with poor-man lathe...



Managed to reduce the wire using files of different types..



I will cut this piece so will have two for one cannon...

The length is 0.5mm



And after about a hour, all done...



i have two extras, just in case...

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

And these tiny items were installed; first, pilot hole was drilled, then simulated bolts were inserted into... during this process i lost 4 of them; they simply flew somewhere off my tweezers when i picked them up...



Then i also installed top of the knight heads, after lots of sanding and forming...



Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

I am trying to make a chainplate strap for deadeyes as i dont quite like parts that are provided with kit; the way i like is this:



but i was not able to achieve it; basically the build process will be:
- make a circle by wrapping a wire around an item that has correct diameter;


- solder the end of the circle;
- squeeze it around in this case 5mm drill bit:


- and it supposed to ended up like one on the top of the picture (of course more work will be required after...)

But the challenge i faced is that every time i squeeze the wire, it breaks on the soldering area. No matter where i squeeze it to the correct form, it breaks on the soldering area... So i tried different type of wire, soldering paste and solder, different flame intensity but was not able to make it correct.

Anyone facing the same challenge or it is just me?
If you know of any good how-to pls point me to it...

Cheers

 

[Jimsky]

Hello Moreplovac. A few suggestions may help you.

• First, anneal the wire
• Clean the wire by rubbing it against sandpaper
• There should be absolutely no gap between joints. The way I do it (an old jeweler trick) is to squeeze the loop as you would close the ring (tight), insert a sanding disk between the ends while your grinding machine is on. This will sand both wires ends at the same time make them fit tight.
• Flatten the solder and insert it between the ends. I assume you are using the butane soldering torch and silver solder? If yes, use medium solder instead of hard.
• Last but not the least, try to form the chainplate first and then solder it at the channel slot position, lately it will be covered by a capping strip

hope this will help

 

[moreplovac]

Hello Moreplovac. A few suggestions may help you.

• First, anneal the wire
• Clean the wire by rubbing it against sandpaper
• There should be absolutely no gap between joints. The way I do it (an old jeweler trick) is to squeeze the loop as you would close the ring (tight), insert a sanding disk between the ends while your grinding machine is on. This will sand both wires ends at the same time make them fit tight.
• Flatten the solder and insert it between the ends. I assume you are using the butane soldering torch and silver solder? If yes, use medium solder instead of hard.
• Last but not the least, try to form the chainplate first and then solder it at the channel slot position, lately it will be covered by a capping strip

hope this will help

Cheers, much appreciated.

Yes i use butane torch and silver solder...

I will try the rubbing-sanding disk trick. That part i have not done; managed to have very good, tight close just by cutting wire ends with special cutters.

Will try to add solder between ends, as well as heating the wire from the opposite site of where the solder is put on (if adding solder between does not work).

I tried to put a solder in channel position but it was too bulky looking and needed tons of sanding...

Ordered some different solders on line to try it out...

Thanks