HMS Snake

Remaining end tackle tied on. Just the stunsails remaining now.
 

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I'm waiting for things to dry on the stunsail parts, so a quick re-visit to the chainplates. I have never liked the fact that the chainplate loops are not closed and we had some discussion on this in an earlier post, but there is nothing in the kit and it is what it is - photo 1. The trouble is that it draws my eye all the time and needs sorting out - I'm sure you get that way on some aspect of your own build.
I hit on a solution but did not have anything small enough in my tackle box, so off to the fishing shop for some of the smallest line crimps I could find; the carp fishing boys know a thing or two about good kit The ones I ended up using have an i/d of 0.5mm. They slotted on reasonably easy, I ground them down for the shorter links, a dab of CA to fix in place and then a coat of matt black - photo 2. It may not be to scale, I don't know, but at least I don't scowl now every time I look at the hull.
 

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Back to the stunsail yards. Yards stained & coated and the metal collars glued on -


I then drilled fully through each inboard one and this will facilitate me pinning it to the yard beneath and hopefully keep it secure when I am rigging in the future and I catch it - which is inevitable.

Stunsail yards pinned and glued in place -


End 'L' brackets made from 0.8mm wire and fitted -


Touch up with matt black and finished -



Once I had found a sequence which works for me I enjoyed doing the yards. However, and as I've said before, I do need to get out more. Time to nail 'em on and run some lines.
 

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Fitting the yards. Some of the yards are fitted to the mast with parral beads. When threaded these are a bit sloppy and tricky to keep the tension on so I:-
Threaded them on two cords -


Push them together then mould around a piece of scrap dowel which is a similar diameter to the mast you are fitting the yard to -


Add some dabs of CA glue and when dry paint with matt black -


Allow to dry, but keep the shape -


Offer up to the mast, keep some weight on with pegs -



Yards fitted -


Learning points:
Some of the parral beads are malformed, some badly - I deliberately show some examples on the left in photo 1. Check them carefully before you thread them, otherwise it's a pain unthreading them.
Put a towel or something on the bench to work over. If you don't and happen to drop a bead they really bounce and usually end up on the floor - then the dog pounces on them and isn't too keen on giving them up.
 

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Hi Graham, thanks for those valuable pointers, I have been wondering how I was going to get around that problem with the Endeavour.

This is what makes this site so great!!!

Regards
Eric
 
Thanks guys, I think it's good to share techniques that work well. I know that I'll never stop learning in this hobby and that's why I also share the mistakes I make. Regards.
 
Running rigging. There are two sets of plans and it makes sense to first tie the ones which are along the centreline of the ship and were used to raise, lower and brace the yards because if I do the outer ones now I won't be able to get my hands in. Doubtless these lines I am working on all have individual names and if Santa brings me the rigging book I have asked for I will be wiser in the future, but for now let's just call it 'The stuff along the centreline of the ship'.
Learning point: There are now quite a few lines on the ship and I go cross-eyed now and again. Be very sure that the line you are running is clear of all others and not wrapped around another line before you tie it off.
Some photos:-
 

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I like that you post how you do things. What is important is that you find what works for you and share it. For me what has worked is to do each lower yards first and complete all the rigging before going up to the next level. Donnie's method might have less chance of causing an accident, but I do each line as I come to it. However, now that I have built up a reserve of rigging line, I might switch to his method, especially if I intend to add sails.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post that picture, Donnie. All of the spars are now fixed and I've just read your post, so have not had the opportunity to implement that approach, but it's certainly a consideration for a future build. Thanks again.
 
I wish I had known about the parrell beads, I could have made you some out of stainless steel, wood, brass, or plastic and at any or near any size you wish for.

Donnie
 
The first stage of the running rigging is now almost complete. Nothing special to report at this point, it's just a question of working through the lines on the plan for this stage - luckily all on one sheet.
 

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Cheers, Popeye.

Thanks for the offer on the parral beads, Donnie. As it turned out, by the time I had thrown away the duffers (the badly formed ones) I did not have enough beads to rig the mizzen mast, so I guess that would be a criticism of the kit. Anyway, I was swinging past the fishing tackle shop so I got some small rigging beads used in carp fishing - all perfectly formed. As I have said before, the carp fishing boys know a lot about good kit.
I am a fisherman myself and you will see that I have used several tackle items during the build. Maybe not good in the eyes of the purist, but my view is that if it works it works. If there is a well stocked tackle shop nearby I would encourage everyone to go in and have mooch around - you might be surprised at some of the ideas you can pick up - and the guys in the shop get very intrigued when they find out what you are using their kit for. Last time i was in there we ended up logging on to SoS! Regards.
 
Howdy Mr Graham. I read your complete build thread.
I just received today the Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne, also a 1:64 scale kit. I also ordered Caldercraft's paint set as well. This is my 1st time building a Caldercraft kit. Impressive what comes in the box, one can build SOB or improve/detail as desired. The craftsmanship of this mfg's kit is top shelf. I was awed by your build and your use of what you had available. I too am a Fisherman, going next week for Black Drum. But I never have even though of fishing tackle as model material. Got me rummaging thru the tackle box :text-woo:
Most excellent clean build style, good eye for detail and imagination for coming up with a good replacement for that missing detail. Will refer back to this thread oft.
Rick :ugeek:
 
Rick,
I look forward to seeing your Sherbourne come to life in the Build Logs.

Donnie
 
Hi Rick. Welcome to the forum and thank you for your kind comments. The Caldercraft kits are made by JoTiKa who I have called twice and they have been great; excellent customer service. Like Donnie I hope you will set up a build log as it is always great to see what people are up to and how it is going. I am in the UK so I had to look up what a Black Drum fish is and I see that the world record is just over 113lb, so get out there and make us proud - no pressure! Regards.
 
Graham said:
Hi Rick. Welcome to the forum and thank you for your kind comments. The Caldercraft kits are made by JoTiKa who I have called twice and they have been great; excellent customer service. Like Donnie I hope you will set up a build log as it is always great to see what people are up to and how it is going. I am in the UK so I had to look up what a Black Drum fish is and I see that the world record is just over 113lb, so get out there and make us proud - no pressure! Regards.
No pressure :eek: , 113lbs is a monster.......the ones I am after in the inlets of South Carolina's coast, 10-15 lbs :banana-dance:
The Caldercraft kits are really nice, look to order a few more. My next build is however a French Lugger.
Then the Sherbourne will follow as a French/British display of these two types craft.
Cheers Rick :ugeek:
 
Did I mention to you that I really like your cannons. I hope that mine will turn out as well.

Donnie
 
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