US Brig Syren by Passaro

Taking note and admiring
Will you use peg to fix the mast or just place it with glue
 
Yes, all except the royal yards (top most) either have or will have 22 gauge wire inserted. A corresponding hole in the mast and that'll hold the yard nicely while rigging up.
 
JohnA said:
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You're build looks fantastic. It's coming along very nicely.
I noticed in the photo above that the grain is very pronounced- I'm not sure if that was the effect you were trying to achieve or the camera/light makes it look that way?
Years ago I had a similar result and found it to be very frustrating as it wasn't the look I was after. I prepared the parts very well; sanding them to a fine finish and then, after I applied my first coat of acrylic paint, all my hard work was ruined when the grain raised.
I later found that the water in the acrylic paint raised the grain giving this look.
Now I sand the wood to final finish and apply a very lightly dampened cloth over the wood which will raise the grain, I let it dry (the grain will remain raised after drying) and give it a final light sand that gets rid of the raised grain. Only a few short sanding strokes is required. The grain will only raise once.
Or you can give the wood a coat of paint, let the grain raise and sand the first coat of paint after it is completely dry- it should remain smooth after that.

You may already know this, just thought I'd mention it so as to prevent others from going through the same frustration I went through.
I hope you do not find offense with my comment- my intentions is only to give help to others where I can.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's just a function of a crummy camera on my crummy phone. :-(
 
Finally recieved the premium blocks from Chuck Passaro. With the exception that I stain the boxwood blocks before using these blocks are shaped already and look great.

Here I rigged up all the blocks needed for the two lower yards and the gaff/boom. A mixture of 3/32 single, 1/8 single, and 1/8 double blocks.

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More rope coils. If you choose to have rope coils for each and every line that is secured to pin racks and cleats I'd suggest doing a few at a time every time you sit down to get some work done. Each one only takes a couple of minutes. But for some reason if you have to do them all at once or in a couple of chunks of time it saps the joy out of it. I'd rather have this project produce joy than "OMG I have to work on the ship again".

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New blocks versus old blocks. No comparison, I'll be using these blocks from here on out. Not only are they shaped proper, they have two holes (single block) and four holes (double blocks) rather than the standard stuff that comes in a kit. This really is an accurate representation of a ships block/sheave. The only complaint I might have is that the holes are narrower and in some cases you have to carefully drill out the upper hole before even thinking of trying to push thread into it.

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In Chuck Passaro's practicum he has installing the anchor cable in chapter 21, AFTER doing all the rigging. I figured at least laying down the on deck anchor cable before getting too "webby" with rigging lines would be a good idea. I'm glad I did.

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Main and fore mast yards are all the same. First mounted and completely rigged was aft. Shown in the pics are lower course yard with details of the yard truss, lanyard and jeer ties (holds the yard to the mast, raises and lowers the yard), and then the leech line and buntline.

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