Building question

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Oct 9, 2017
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I'm a relative newcomer at 74. I'm building the Armed Pinnace. I got a copy of Keith Julier's book and he mentions using "contact cement" for planking the second and third layers. I've never used contact cement for this application. Does anyone have any comments, advice, etc about using contact cement?....Allan
 
Hi Allan,
I have Keith Julier's books too and they are a wonderful reference for building kits. His method of contact cement is fine to use, but most modellers use white carpenters wood glue or Titebond.
 
Hi Allen,

Titebond is the glue of choice for my modelling. I have a good friend who used some CA glue 20 years ago to secure some rigging and today it has broken off even though the model is in a display case. Titebond wood glue is good for many many years and I used it for all my planking. Hope that helps,

Bill
 
I use Titebond 2 and Titebond 3 where greater strength is needed. I use their transparent glue for rigging. On rigging, glue and leave alone. If you mess with it to much it is no longer transparent.
 
Contact cement is very messy. There are much better modern glues. As mentioned Titebond is very good and strong. I like Weldbond white glue as it can be dissolved with alcohol. I also use gel and medium CA (super glue) for tacking planks and other tasks. While I understand some purists may not prefer CA, I have never had a model come apart in over 20 years of using it. For certain tasks CA greatly speeds up build time. I have found very few applications where contact cement was better than CA or white glue.

My 2 cents.
 
Hi

Do forget CyanoAcrylate ( super glue mor CA) and Contact Adhesive ( or C.A.) are two very different things. Some people get them mixed up. due to using the initials for both. For Deck laying & second skin, where you don't want pressure markings or holes Contact Adhesive is great. Its flexible and you brush on both the hull surface and the planks. Whit a few seconds for it to dry and then place like sticky tape. Use Acetone to clean brushes.

For all other wood work I use PVA. For metal either CA or EPoxy depending on strength required. CA thin / thick is fast but not very strong on lateral pressure. CA stains wood so be aware ( especially wet wood). Knots I use CA or diluted PVA to soak in. The CA leaves rope glossy where the white PVA leaves no marking.

As I an in Aus I do use Tight bond ( hard to get) and a little patience with white PVA drying s not an issue for me. Once again we all do things a little different.
 
Just so nobody is confused, including myself. Here in the U.S. white glue (titebond, weldbond, elmers, etc) is the same thing as PVA. Can be diluted with water, dries matt clear. :)
 
Ahhh... they make Titebond in both white and amber/yellow. The amber stuff is what I call "wood glue". It is essentially PVA with a filler added for additional strength. Where as the amber/yellow/wood PVA can only be used on wood... the white PVA can be used on various materials.
 
white glue = poly vinyl acetate
yellow glue = aliphatic resin

they are not the same: http://newtowoodworking.com/aliphatic-resin-glue/
 
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