Cazador Xebec 1750 - OcCre - scale 1:60 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Sometimes the guns within kits are very good and you don't need to make any. The method @Jimsky shown in his mini tutorial are absolute beautiful, but I don't have a lathe nor permission to place one on the dining table... just checked....:rolleyes:
I know the feeling Peter. But then, I probably would not have known how to work properly with a lathe in any case ...
 
Richie I do not think that it is a question of being lazy per se. I simply know that I cannot make scratch gun carriages in this scale that will look as good as those supplied by a good kit or as an aftermarket option.
That may be a better way of putting it, realizing I just don't have the x factor (tools and skills) to work at such a high level so look for an alternative.
Guess it's like most of us can drive a car but not many can or will develop the skills to a high level needed to race one.
 
I know the feeling Peter. But then, I probably would not have known how to work properly with a lathe in any case ...
...my teacher always told me: If you want to make it happen - you will look for ways to accomplish it, and not for excuses. :p All you need is to try...
 
Hi guys,

I'll continue with the gun carriages. This time I fabricated all wheels. I use two different diameters on the wheels. The front wheels are bigger that the ones on the rear axel. I have only one diameter of walnut and so I fabricate the smaller wheels by hand with a knife, file and some elbow grease.

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Wheels done, time to move on to the fabrication of all the axles. I made them out of toothpicks.

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All the carriages are rolling now but I need to make all the parts that support and aim the guns.

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Well, still not finished, to be continued...

regards,
Pete
Exquisite detail Pete. Especially the canon barrel elevators. I know your carving skills comes in handy on those tiny pieces.
 
...my teacher always told me: If you want to make it happen - you will look for ways to accomplish it, and not for excuses. :p All you need is to try...
I agree wholeheartedly with you - however my situation is a bit different. Due to my work permit (which will expire in 18 months' time and which I cannot renew because of my age) I may have to leave China. I am already in a predicament as to what to do with my models - let alone expensive power tools.
 
Part 3 of the gun carriages

The closing of an era. I finished all the carriages. Luckily there were only 20. :rolleyes:
I let the pictures do the talking and before I forget, I still need to fabricate all the bolts, rings and blocks for all these cannons...so...I'm not out of the woods yet...

Then a question for those who has the knowledge about rigging these guns. It's a mid 18th century Spanish ship with French influence. Does any of you have a picture how these cannons were rigged? I mean, I have seen pictures were the thick cable goes through the carriage and I have seen pictures where the cable lies round the back of the cannon / barrel. I do not know what is correct or not. Your help is much appreciated. ;)

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Until the next update,
Pete
 
Hi Ptèr


1655103394033.png
Image enlarged from the above website. Even with the French, the "thick cable" did not always go through the carriage.

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Photo: Wolfram zu Mondfeld, Schiffsgeschütze 1350 bis 1870, page 78.

Spanish gun carriage after 1780 with cast iron wheels, before that with wooden wheels.

Best regards
Thomas
 
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Your carriage is already in form of leading the "broeking" around the back of the cannon. There is in the case of how the "boeking" was attached also a different build of the carriage.
In the picture below you see the hole of the "thick rope"
Rolpaarden_Ned.jpg
Edit, it's also in an open carriage possible to lead the brook through a hole in the carriage. This was so before 1750 continental.
 
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Hi Ptèr


View attachment 313533
Image enlarged from the above website. Even with the French, the "thick cable" did not always go through the carriage.

View attachment 313535
Photo: Wolfram zu Mondfeld, Schiffsgeschütze 1350 bis 1870, page 78.

Spanish gun carriage after 1780 with cast iron wheels, before that with wooden wheels.

Best regards
Thomas

Danke Thomas!

I see that both methodes were used. Because this ships represent in a timeperiod between changes, I should choose the most likely. I think I follow the example from Ancre / Frölich.
 
I have seen many pictures of model ships of the mid 18th century period. Both method are used where the "Breach rope" goes through the carriage or was going to the knob of the cannon. (Cascabel)
Because my model is supposed to be from 1750/1751 but looks a bit earlier 18th century, I'll go for the rope through the carriage like the picture below of another Xebec shows.

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Hi guys,

Today I did some small "detail" work on the halfdeck and made some ironwork eyebolts and rings from brass.
First things first. The halfdeck ends just as shown on the photo below. You can see the endgrain of the veneer wood and the false deck below, so I wanted to change that and place a walnut strip at the end to cover this up.
Well, there wasn't enough space to place the plank and the only option was to cut-off the end of the deck so the plank would fit in between the bulwark.

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I decided to use my knife to make the cut. To keep a straight line, I use a "guide" made of a piece of walnut.


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The result is a straight line which needed only a small bit of sanding. After that a placed the strip of walnut.

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After this I worked on the eyebolds and rings. The eyebolds were part of the kit, but a bit out scale, so I reduced the diameter and blacked them with Brass Black.

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After the rings and eyebolds were put together, I placed them on the bulwarks. The breach rope of the cannons will be attached to these rings.

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And that's it for this update,
Thank you for all the likes and comments and help I get allong the way.

Pete
 
The walnut strip finishes the half deck so much better. I await the cannon and guncarriage installation in anticipation.
 
As work on Cazador continues, I'm looking for alternatives blocks for her. The kit contains 4mm single blocks and 4mm double blocks. Does anyone has a good source for alternative blocks? For this model I would like "boxwood" versions because I can use dye to stain it into the color of the rest of the model. :)

Your help is being appreciated! Thumbsup
 
As work on Cazador continues, I'm looking for alternatives blocks for her. The kit contains 4mm single blocks and 4mm double blocks. Does anyone has a good source for alternative blocks? For this model I would like "boxwood" versions because I can use dye to stain it into the color of the rest of the model. :) Your help is being appreciated! Thumbsup
As work on Cazador continues, I'm looking for alternatives blocks for her. The kit contains 4mm single blocks and 4mm double blocks. Does anyone has a good source for alternative blocks? For this model I would like "boxwood" versions because I can use dye to stain it into the color of the rest of the model. :) Your help is being appreciated! Thumbsup
Hello Pter- Zoly from drydock models has really good blocks. Check his website. Cheers Grant
 
Hi guys,

Some progress on the yard I made some improvements at the focsle construction that holds the fore-mast. To do so, I had to put my saw into the current construction. A bit nerve breaking kind of work.....The part I inserted is a slightly different color. Both walnut, so in time the color difference will be less visible.

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The mast is on a certain angle and the fit is just what I was looking for.

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From fore to aft. Some scratch build parts made and placed on deck. And yes, it's not being placed in the center of the quarterdeck due to the place of the mizzenmast.

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The supportive "arch" I made out of a single piece of solid walnut was a difficult job. The amount of angles this thing has is ridiculous.
It's an add on I see on other Xebecs and I kind of liked it. It supports the spanker boom.

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Regards,
Pete
 
Hi guys,

Some progress on the yard I made some improvements at the focsle construction that holds the fore-mast. To do so, I had to put my saw into the current construction. A bit nerve breaking kind of work.....The part I inserted is a slightly different color. Both walnut, so in time the color difference will be less visible.

[IMG]


[IMG]


The mast is on a certain angle and the fit is just what I was looking for.

[IMG]


From fore to aft. Some scratch build parts made and placed on deck. And yes, it's not being placed in the center of the quarterdeck due to the place of the mizzenmast.

[IMG]


[IMG]


The supportive "arch" I made out of a single piece of solid walnut was a difficult job. The amount of angles this thing has is ridiculous.
It's an add on I see on other Xebecs and I kind of liked it. It supports the spanker boom.

[IMG]


[IMG]


Regards,
Pete
Wow- just incredible modeling!
 
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