Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale

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Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale​



This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!


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I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel.



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A lot of great drawings in that book!

There are a lot of real challenges involved in building this little ship…not the least of which is the extended hatch to the cargo hold. The framing for than long hatch curves across the beam to match the deck camber, but also fore and aft to match the deck sheer. I plan to also change the wooden slats which cover the hatch opening from flat to curved. Lots of solid geometry to contend with. I suspect that part of the build may take a month to complete, with multiple trial and error attempts. Challenging and fun!


 
I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel.



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The method you listed as weird is how the canoes and many small long boat kits are built, with an inside frame and hull assembled on the outside. of jig.
 
The method you listed as weird is how the canoes and many small long boat kits are built, with an inside frame and hull assembled on the outside. of jig.
You're right, Kurt. If the model were designed to actually show the frames, this method would make more sense, but this is really, in essence, a POB build, not a POF. Using bulkheads and a central false keel is easier and faster as well as less work.
 
HI DOC A SUGESTION CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE DIFFERECES IF ANY BETWEEN YOUR BUILD AND THE PROPOSED NEW KIT FOR THE HOY ALSO WAS THERE NOT A BOOK THAT WAS ON THE SEAWATCH ABOUT A HOY, THANKS A LOT. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
 
HI DOC A SUGESTION CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE DIFFERECES IF ANY BETWEEN YOUR BUILD AND THE PROPOSED NEW KIT FOR THE HOY ALSO WAS THERE NOT A BOOK THAT WAS ON THE SEAWATCH ABOUT A HOY, THANKS A LOT. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
Hi Don!

I’m not sure what kit you’re referring to, but Seawatch does distribute David Antscherl’s book and plans for the “Hayling Hoy”. That is a Plank on frame model…a beautiful little boat!
 
The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick. You can see the two layers in the second photo. The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up!

Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions. That may be a problem a little later!



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HI DOC THE KIT IS THE ONE BEING DEVLOPED SHOWN HERE ON SOS DO NOT REMEMBER THE MANUFACTUER THE ONE WHO DID THE BLANFORD. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
Don that is the Model Ship Dockyard that you are referring to - it is a POF build.
 
I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel.



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Hi Doc,

I am looking forward to seeing your interpretation, of this lovely boat.
I also have the Model Boats mag with the free plan.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.



You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.

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As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also. (Photo 15-19)


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