Cleaning Models

J

JIMBO1912

Joined
Jun 30, 2018
Messages
15
Points
28

A few weeks ago, there was a thread on Cleaning your Model Ships . (which I can't find) . I was reminded of a chapter in a book by Harold Underhill .
He was working in Glasgow, a city not known for it's air quality, and his advice was to put the model out in " soft rain" and let nature do its work ,bring it in and allow to dry naturally.
If it worked for a master builder ,it's good enough for me.. I have tried it a couple of times and it does work for me.. I should add I paint and varnish my models
 
I would not do it like recommended by Underhill
My models are glued with waterbased wood glue - after a rain there would be no model anymore, only wooden sticks
 
Uwek said:
I would not do it like recommended by Underhill
My models are glued with waterbased wood glue - after a rain there would be no model anymore, only wooden sticks
Click to expand...
I dont remember what glue Underhill would have used but he would have had a really limited choice, Cascamitte or Casein and I think that the Casein is more of water resistant glue and he didn't define what soft rain soft rain was
 
Last edited by a moderator:
a very soft makeup brush and an air puffer bulb. ive only cleaned my models maybe once in the past 50 years. the dust that accumulated was very fine so it cleaned easily and dampening the brush helped.

what i find most delicate are the rigging lines. they get brittle over the years... hit one and 3 or 4 will break. so be very carefull as you move between them.
 
The best way to clean a model is to keep it from getting dirty in the first place!

If you have access to a table saw and router plus basic hand tools you can build a simple glass case that will protect your model for many years to come. You will also need a set of inexpensive right angle “picture frame” clamps. While many of these cases posted on various ship modeling forums are masterpieces of cabinetry, good looking simple cases will serve the purpose of protecting your model.

A common, table saw blade will cut a groove to accept a piece of inexpensive single strength glass cut to size by a local hardware store. It is not necessary for the edges to be polished as they will be covered by wood strips. Decorative molding shapes can be cut with a router. I personally don’t have the knack for using a router so prefer a set of Sears Moulding cutters that fit my table saw. The glass panels are constrained by wood strips but are loose enough to permit ventilation. A picture of one of my cases is posted below.

If you have the skill to build the model, you can certainly build the case.

Roger

image.jpg
 
the case is the ultimate solution.... if you have room for it. i dont inow why i build ships... i have no room to display them properly so they sit on shelves. the clipper 1:96 im working on will have a wall mounted case but still trying to figure out where to hang it. ive got at least 2 more years to decide as i do the rigging.
 
I guess with adequate ventilation a case would be a good solution. My challenge is that I have few rooms in my house where sun doesn't play a factor, and I'd be more concerned with extreme heat build up inside the case, and what potential warping might entail from that. So no cases for me, though I do love the looks of them. Every few years, a light (read "delicate") dusting and vacuuming using a small wireless keyboard vacuum and a soft artist brush is how I tackle the "dirty deed".
 
JIMBO1912 said:
A few weeks ago, there was a thread on Cleaning your Model Ships . (which I can't find) . I was reminded of a chapter in a book by Harold Underhill .
He was working in Glasgow, a city not known for it's air quality, and his advice was to put the model out in " soft rain" and let nature do its work ,bring it in and allow to dry naturally.
If it worked for a master builder ,it's good enough for me.. I have tried it a couple of times and it does work for me.. I should add I paint and varnish my models
Click to expand...
Re paint & varnish Jimbo I have done the same with the models I have built but with the addition of a few coats of varnish on frames and planks on the inside prior to fitting decks.
 
Roger Pellett said:
The best way to clean a model is to keep it from getting dirty in the first place!

If you have access to a table saw and router plus basic hand tools you can build a simple glass case that will protect your model for many years to come. You will also need a set of inexpensive right angle “picture frame” clamps. While many of these cases posted on various ship modeling forums are masterpieces of cabinetry, good looking simple cases will serve the purpose of protecting your model.

A common, table saw blade will cut a groove to accept a piece of inexpensive single strength glass cut to size by a local hardware store. It is not necessary for the edges to be polished as they will be covered by wood strips. Decorative molding shapes can be cut with a router. I personally don’t have the knack for using a router so prefer a set of Sears Moulding cutters that fit my table saw. The glass panels are constrained by wood strips but are loose enough to permit ventilation. A picture of one of my cases is posted below.

If you have the skill to build the model, you can certainly build the case.

Roger

View attachment 459000
Click to expand...
Agree, quite simple to make, this without any power tools, just some lumber & plexiglass. Next for my Victory will be more of a challenge though.

DSCN0710.JPG
 
40% turpentine
40% vinegar
20% liquid Vaseline
Wet soft brush and DRY the brush so that it is slightly damp.
Then, patiently and gently, always with an almost dry brush, the dirt is removed.
Do a test first and wait a couple of days to check that you don't run out of the model.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top