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While I haven't used Mylands sanding sealer, I have used Mylands friction polish. Primarily on pens that I have turned. I don't recommend it because it is fairly soft, deteriorates ans scratches easily. Maybe the sealer is better. Try it on scrap first to see what you think.Hey Daniel,
Yes, I recommended it as I scoured North America for Clou. Mylands is cellulose-based, with a high solids count which was the key requirement I was looking for. That said, I do use it like Clou to protect the wood until I apply a final finish much later on in the project. That may be 2 years from now. One unknown, to me, is whether can it be stained or tinted AFTER it is applied. Sanding sealers, from everything I've read, is to create a uniform surface in preparation for staining. To prevent heavy grain soaking of stains resulting in blotchy ugly finishes. I have yet to test this, thoroughly. I plan to test wood after it's been treated (off-ship) with Mylands. See if I can then apply tinted oil or wax with bitumen. If this application fails, I'll attempt to tint the Mylands itself before the application of the wood.
I do really like Mylands, but beware, use it in a very, very, well-ventilated environment.
Looking at your image and the gloss, I'm assuming the photo is of the finish after it has been applied and dried with no additional treatment. I don't want to assume anything, so I don't know if what you show in your photo is the finish you are going for. If so, great.
I typically let it dry, then sand it with 340 grit, wipe it clean, and then hit it with 0000 steel wool. You may be very pleased with the satin-smooth, natural finish which is then protected.
Ok, Daniel, I will admit it, initially, I was going to admit I recommended Mylands, only if you were happy with it, but I decided to go out on a limb and throw caution to the wind.
Can't wait to see Mylands on your ship!!