Comparable kits

[Ted Robinson]

I have been watching Artisinia Latinas Trafalgar HMS Victory YouTube videos.
I love the details on the bowsprit, yardarm, and mast. The use of provide fixtures to make complex parts etc. including sheaves, complex three dimensional photo etch and cannon port hole.rigging.
This kit is too expensive for my budget.
Does anyone know of any moderately priced kits that include that extra level of detail not.present on the usual kits..
This all sounds like I should do a scratch build but i don't have the experience ,tooling or space for a scratch build.
I hope this makes sense.
Ted

 

[AllanKP69]

This all sounds like I should do a scratch build but i don't have the experience ,tooling or space for a scratch build.

Experience comes in good time and considering the cost of kits, tools and machines are paid for in a reasonable amount of time. Space is the killer. Wheels with wheel locks on saws and benches is a huge help, but has its limits. One of my favorite all time shops was the one modeler extraordinaire David Antscherl had 20 years ago. He had everything needed for his builds and writing in less than 150 square feet.
Allan

 

[Roger Pellett]

My first workshop was the second bedroom of a two bedroom apartment. My workbench was a small Sears Roebuck drawing table. A sheet of Masonite hardboard kept most of the dirt off of the carpet. I set my first major power tool that I use to this day, a drill press, up in the corner. Really dirty jobs were taken to the balcony.

The drill press was expensive; $300 on a $12,000 annual starting salary. The cost, however, prorated over its life now approaching 50 years is minimal. I can’t imagine spending the money charged for today’s kits. I believe that the latest HMS Victory kits are selling for $1500. A huge amount for for a hackneyed subject. I believe that my drill press will still be going strong for the next generation.

Roger

 

[Roger Pellett]

My first workshop was the second bedroom of a two bedroom apartment. My workbench was a small Sears Roebuck drawing table. A sheet of Masonite hardboard kept most of the dirt off of the carpet. I set my first major power tool that I use to this day, a drill press, up in the corner. Really dirty jobs were taken to the balcony.

The drill press was expensive; $300 on a $12,000 annual starting salary. The cost, however, prorated over its life now approaching 50 years is minimal. I can’t imagine spending the money charged for today’s kits. I believe that the latest HMS Victory kits are selling for $1500. A huge amount for for a hackneyed subject. I believe that my drill press will still be going strong for the next generation.

Roger

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[Ted Robinson]

My first workshop was the second bedroom of a two bedroom apartment. My workbench was a small Sears Roebuck drawing table. A sheet of Masonite hardboard kept most of the dirt off of the carpet. I set my first major power tool that I use to this day, a drill press, up in the corner. Really dirty jobs were taken to the balcony.

The drill press was expensive; $300 on a $12,000 annual starting salary. The cost, however, prorated over its life now approaching 50 years is minimal. I can’t imagine spending the money charged for today’s kits. I believe that the latest HMS Victory kits are selling for $1500. A huge amount for for a hackneyed subject. I believe that my drill press will still be going strong for the next generation.

Roger

Im using a small dining room table in the bedroom of my apartment. The only power tool is a Dremel with a drill press attachment. What the hell I'm having fun.

 

[Drobbs]

I have been watching Artisinia Latinas Trafalgar HMS Victory YouTube videos.
I love the details on the bowsprit, yardarm, and mast. The use of provide fixtures to make complex parts etc. including sheaves, complex three dimensional photo etch and cannon port hole.rigging.
This kit is too expensive for my budget.
Does anyone know of any moderately priced kits that include that extra level of detail not.present on the usual kits..
This all sounds like I should do a scratch build but i don't have the experience ,tooling or space for a scratch build.
I hope this makes sense.
Ted

Why don’t you try building and improving your skills with some of the (horror to say this) non-masted or non-ship kits? Before I moved into ships with larger masts and lots of rigging, I built trams, early locomotives, merchant boats and tugs. All were moderately priced, built skills and finished as unique, fine models. None required any power tools except for a hand drill and a few drill bits.
Good luck!

 

[Ted Robinson]

Why don’t you try building and improving your skills with some of the (horror to say this) non-masted or non-ship kits? Before I moved into ships with larger masts and lots of rigging, I built trams, early locomotives, merchant boats and tugs. All were moderately priced, built skills and finished as unique, fine models. None required any power tools except for a hand drill and a few drill bits.
Good luck!

I like your suggestion. I did build the Model expo of the Pram and Dory first. Followed by the Harvey byAL. My last previous build was the group build of the Bluenose. I'm now building the HMS Jalouse. I have my heart set on the San Felipe next but want to do more details on the yards, mast etc. maybe I just need to get that kit and research the added details I have in mind. I really like the details available on the $1800 kits but can't afford them. My doctor's suggest I probably have 2-3 productive years left with my COPD brought on by Vietnam era exposure to agent Orange. I'm not complaining because I was granted the grace of God in surviving my youth.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I've started group sanding the planks to reduce the variance in width. Helps somewhat.

 

[Jim Fortnam]

I can see that makes sense, but may I suggest that you make up a u shaped jig to allow you some precision in the width of the finished planks, and at the same time ensure a 90 degree corner so that planks butt up to each other tightly?

If you are using abrasive, rather than, say, a block plane, then something like a couple of brass strips, one each side of a ¾ inch spacer would allow you to line up the top surfaces, and using opposing wedges in the gulley to tighten the planks up, you would be batch producing identical planking with good corners.

At a single plank level, then a saw kerf would provide a jig for holding a single plank. Lots of scope for creative clamping in this topic.

J

 

[Ted Robinson]

I can see that makes sense, but may I suggest that you make up a u shaped jig to allow you some precision in the width of the finished planks, and at the same time ensure a 90 degree corner so that planks butt up to each other tightly?

If you are using abrasive, rather than, say, a block plane, then something like a couple of brass strips, one each side of a ¾ inch spacer would allow you to line up the top surfaces, and using opposing wedges in the gulley to tighten the planks up, you would be batch producing identical planking with good corners.

At a single plank level, then a saw kerf would provide a jig for holding a single plank. Lots of scope for creative clamping in this topic.

J

Thank you, tim looking in what little stock I have to make something up

 

[nongri]

... with some of the (horror to say this) non-masted or non-ship kits?

Why "horror to say" ? I build only non-masted ships , I don't like sails and rigging, they hide everything else on the boat
I like tugs and fishing boats with very little sails

 

[bowwild]

My favorite part of the ship build is the rigging. Gotta get past that planking first though!

 

[Ted Robinson]

My favorite part of the ship build is the rigging. Gotta get past that planking first though!

Im fond of rigging to.

 

[AllanKP69]

90 degree corner

Sorry to ask, I am not sure if you are you speaking about the butt or the long edge? Can you post a sketch or photo? With the taper in breadth that is pretty much equal for many strakes, especially below the main wales, a jig sounds like an interesting idea.
Thanks Jim
Allan