Dansk Jagt/Sweden Yacht - (A.k.a Baltic “Hunt” Ship) - Yuanqing, 1:50. Project No. 4. [COMPLETED BUILD]

Joined
Sep 23, 2021
Messages
137
Points
113

Time for a new build (+ bonus video of a little holiday project at the end ).

After finishing my Bluenose II I took a break from the model building and I am now kicking off the first of my 2022 projects. I intend to build this model more as a practice piece in order to try some techniques, making parts from scratch and adding some details etc. It should still be an historically interesting ship to build and hopefully I will make it authentic to the era (we will see). It is a fairly simple model and I don’t expect that it will take me the whole year to build (one mast and not a lot of rigging!) so, I will be starting a second “long term” project later in the year which will be my main build and one that will probably run through 2023/4 (and beyond?).

Part 1 - About The Model

This model is produced by Yuanqing and I purchased it from ZHL model. They call it a “Sweden Yacht''. Scale is 1:50 and is plank on bulkhead with false keel construction. I am not familiar with the Yuanqing brand but their high end models have received positive comments from SOS team members. I have not found any reviews or builds of this particular model, so I will find out if the kit is any good as I go along. The kit itself was inexpensive so I am quite happy to try a few things out and if it doesn't work out as planned that is OK so long as I have learnt something.

In wood picture.JPG

Some History of the “Hunt” Ships

I did some research on these ships to find out a bit more about them. So far I have only found a limited amount of information, but I will search on and hopefully turn up some more detail.

Acknowledgment: most of the information has come from the Marine Preservation Society Website MSV-HEILIGENHAFEN E.V. (msv-heiligenhafen.de)

Ships of this type were developed by a number of States surrounding the Baltic and were very common throughout the 19th and into the early 20th century. They were very capable, sturdily built vessels of about 20T and were primarily used as light coastal cargo ships as well as for ferrying passengers and providing mail services. The type disappeared after the introduction of larger and powered vessels and there are no original surviving examples.

The construction of these ships was basic, functional and with very few adornments (if any). They were work-a-day vessels rigged for easy handling with minimum crew. As a gaff cutter rigged mostly with wide jib, they were equipped for sailing in all winds with the aim of reaching destinations quickly and safely. The type had a continuous mast, shallow draft and in the rear area was often an owner's cabin which sometimes had one or two stern windows. Otherwise, the ship had a fairly bulbous hull to provide a lot of loading space.

The largest number of these types of ship were built in Denmark and were primarily known as "Dansk Jagt” - Danish Hunt ships. Other Baltic States built variants including Norway “Norsk Jakt”, Germany “Deutsche Jagd ” and Sweden “Sverigejakt”. Where the “Hunt” type of ship actually originated is not known precisely but because many were built in Denmark, it is most likely that is where they began their development.

In Denmark they were nicknamed "Peare Skude", which I believe translates as Apple Pram (or Pramm?) and in German coastal areas they were called "Aeppelkaehne", or Apple Barge. This was because their primary cargos were the seasonal perishable crops of the Baltic states and islands such as pears and apples. The term “Hunt” is also a little lost to history, but as far as I have found out, they were called that because their main task was to transport the perishable harvests once per year but the permanent captains had to provide an up-keep on their own responsibility for the rest of the year. They would therefore need to “hunt” for cargo and trade ( it seems the most plausible reason for this term, but that may have been misinterpreted over the years?).

In the 1970’s and 80’s a number of replica ships were built by the Danish boat builder Michael Kiersgaard to a design that retained much of the original historic character of the “Danske Jagt'' but modified for pleasure use with the hold space converted into cabins and a galley with the inclusion of an auxiliary diesel engine. Nine ships were built over this period. The “Olifant”, launched July 1977, is one of those ships and is now preserved by the association "Museumsschiff Heiligenhafe e.V.'' as a museum ship based in Heiligenhafe in Northern Germany.

The Model Kit

Whilst looking for references I did come across another kit of this type by Billing Boats (BB800 - Regina), which was a plank on frame model but they stopped producing it some years ago. Comparing images of the two, it is very similar to the Yuanqing model so I will cross-reference between them and decide which way to go. I will also attempt to find out a bit more about the replica ships in order to glean some details of how they are fitted out and rigged. I don’t know if the kit follows the original historical design or if it is based on the replica ships (should be interesting to find out).

What’s- in-the-box?

Well…….not that much!

As expected the model, as is the ship, pretty basic. There is a CD instruction video that I have not explored yet but hopefully, it will provide enough information to complete the build. 1:1 drawing plans are included ( not very well printed) and there is also a deck plan with some instructions and construction drawings that are in Chinese (I will attempt to decipher them with a translation app.) but they are not very detailed (I expect all the information is on the CD). The construction of the model looks straightforward and I have found some detailed pictures on the ZHL website so I should be able to go about the build logically without too much reliance on the instructions anyway.

Overall, the kit parts look quite good quality. The main skeleton parts are of good quality 2mm birch ply and the laser cutting looks very well done. The other laser cut wood parts are in a variety of solid woods which vary in thickness from 2-2.7mm. There is a separate set of frames with a building jig and plastic former for the row boat together with some laser cut oak parts. The general fittings look of reasonable/good quality and are made in a variety of materials. The belays and anchors are white metal (I will replace the belays with wood ones). The waxed thread is in a variety of sizes and supplied in both black and tan colour for standing and running rigging. The deadeyes and blocks are CNC and look very good quality. Eyelets are standard brass. There is a set of pre-sewn sails included which I have not yet unpacked so I have not determined if they are fit for purpose (I am hoping that they are better than the ones that Artesania supplied for my Bluenose II - see my last log for my little rant!).

The strip wood all looks of good quality and there seems to be a more than ample supply of all the sizes. The planking strips are nicely finished and are very consistent in size. There is a set of laser cut and finished oak deck planking strips which are very nicely done. The 2nd planking decorative strips are in sapele and oak and are again well finished. Other strips are in a variety of woods - oak, birch and teak and are all well finished. The mast, bow-sprit, boom, gaff and spar are nicely pre-tapered and look to be in light oak.
I will gauge the quality of the laser cut parts once I start to assemble the bulkheads, deck and false keel and see how they all fit together.

As this will be my first complete log on SOS, I will update as I progress the build, but just out of the box, I think the quality is quite good and the model should come together nicely.

Everything in the box:

kit parts 1.JPG

The frame Parts:

kit parts 4.JPG
Laser cut parts:

kit parts 3.JPG

Fittings packs

Kit parts 2.JPG

1:1 plan and deck plan

Capture.JPG


Ins 2.JPG


********************************************************************************************************
AND…….. Some new toys for Xmas!

I decided to treat myself to a few useful tools. A decent scroll saw, a mid-priced 5” disc sander, a mini 3” chop saw and a (very cheap) small bench drill. They seem to be “good enough” but there are a few quality issues and they are certainly not precision tools. The bench drill is probably the worst of the bunch and I will probably up-grade that for something better in the future. However, they all should be perfectly OK for my basic needs and I will make a few modifications and upgrades to improve them. They will certainly help to make things a lot quicker than using a coping saw and hand sanding everything.


I thought I would practice using them over the Xmas and New Year holidays while I was doing nothing else. I came across Ross McSweeney’s little dinghy kinetic wave sculpture on YouTube and thought it would be an interesting and fun little project to do and I could try out all my new tools. I figured out a design looking at his video but reduced the size by about 50%. I made up most of the parts from scrap wood and off-cuts. The base is made from an old kitchen chopping board, cut down and sanded. The only bits I bought were the ply discs to make the cams (£3 for 100 discs = not worth making my own for that price) and a big bag of ¼ x ¼” wood strip off-cuts which I obtained from a craft shop. Everything was done on the fly and I just winged it on measurements based on what I had available. The whole thing was done over a few evenings over the holiday period and was quite fun to do. All the parts were CA glued together.

The little sailing dinghy is made from birch veneer, some spare sapele strips, a bamboo skewer for the mast and a cocktail stick for the boom. It took me about 1 hr to make and I thought it came out quite well and since it was a “scratch build”, I can probably justify putting it up on SOS!

Hope you like the video.

View attachment Kinetic wave.mp4

********************************************************************************************************
 

Attachments

  • Kit parts 5.JPG
    Kit parts 5.JPG
    85.1 KB · Views: 19
I love your little Dinghy kinetic sculpture. Can you throw us a little more detail on how it's constructed? I think I might want to have a go at one.
 
I love your little Dinghy kinetic sculpture. Can you throw us a little more detail on how it's constructed? I think I might want to have a go at one.
Hi, it was fun doing it. It was all done very crudely and guess work, but I did take some pictures and made a note of the measurements in case I make another one. There should be enough information in the attached pdf to have a go. Back to the ship building now!
 

Attachments

  • KW Project.pdf
    270.7 KB · Views: 62
Hi, it was fun doing it. It was all done very crudely and guess work, but I did take some pictures and made a note of the measurements in case I make another one. There should be enough information in the attached pdf to have a go. Back to the ship building now!
Brilliant! Thanks you! I did find what I think is the same video that inspired you and it also provides some insight into how it was constructed.
 
Care to share the. Video link?
Hi, if you search the term "kinetic wave" + Ross McSweeney in YouTube there are a few versions of his work on display.

I like your Speel-Jaght work, very nice. I have already taken a few tips on board from your build that I will put to good use in my current build. Thanks.
 
I would really like to build Ross Mc Sweeney's kinetic wave sculpture. Youtube doesn't have detailed information. Can anyone give a build log for the sculpture? Some detail would be helpful (in my case, necessary. I'm not very skilled, experienced.} Lyon_jim@hotmail.com
 
Part 2. Setting the Bulkheads

Finally had some time to get the build underway. After exploring the DVD that was in the kit, I found the necessary set of instructions for the model. There are 63 separate jpg images with a small text instruction in Chinese on each showing the model at each step. I was able to use google docs translate function to extract the text on each image. The actual instructions are basic, but it is obvious what is required to be done at each step. There are a further 6 images which show how to construct the wooden row boat (there is a plastic boat with the kit which I thought was to be used as a jig but was probably the original offering and has now been upgraded as there is a separate laser cut sheet of oak for the wooden row boat parts and a proper frame setting jig).

First up was to cut out the false keel and bulkheads. The ply is 2.7mm thick making it very stiff and the parts popped out easily. There was very little scorching on the ply so they just needed a quick wipe over with some fine emery on the edges and they were good to go. The false keel piece was nice and straight and I supported it with some angle brackets to keep everything square. The bulkheads were a little on the loose side but they squared up using some engineering angles and needed only small tweaks to make sure that the deck heights at the gunwales were spot on P&S. There are some small filler pieces to shape the bow, but I think I will block out the first 2 frames and the last 3 frames at the stern with some bass wood. It probably is not necessary to do this, but it will help to attach the planking strips although the bulkhead spacing is only 40mm centre to centre, so I am not expecting any issues with the planking. Two stringers are also used to hold the bulkheads in place and provide some extra rigidity to the skeleton. The three deck pieces are in 2mm ply and the main deck has three cut-outs for the hold access. The instructions use the cut out pieces as floors for the holds but that would leave gaps, and the sides of the stringers would also be visible through the hatchways. If the hatch covers are in place it doesn’t matter but I am leaving the covers open for display and I will place some cargo barrels into the hold. I therefore fitted some ply pieces to close off the hold areas and I will plank the interior and cover up the stringer sides before I fix the deck pieces into place. The next step is to complete the first planking


IMG_4442.JPGIMG_4443.JPG

So far so good, it is nice to get this underway while in the depths of winter weather.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4440.JPG
    IMG_4440.JPG
    159.6 KB · Views: 3
Time for a new build (+ bonus video of a little holiday project at the end ).

After finishing my Bluenose II I took a break from the model building and I am now kicking off the first of my 2022 projects. I intend to build this model more as a practice piece in order to try some techniques, making parts from scratch and adding some details etc. It should still be an historically interesting ship to build and hopefully I will make it authentic to the era (we will see). It is a fairly simple model and I don’t expect that it will take me the whole year to build (one mast and not a lot of rigging!) so, I will be starting a second “long term” project later in the year which will be my main build and one that will probably run through 2023/4 (and beyond?).

Part 1 - About The Model

This model is produced by Yuanqing and I purchased it from ZHL model. They call it a “Sweden Yacht''. Scale is 1:50 and is plank on bulkhead with false keel construction. I am not familiar with the Yuanqing brand but their high end models have received positive comments from SOS team members. I have not found any reviews or builds of this particular model, so I will find out if the kit is any good as I go along. The kit itself was inexpensive so I am quite happy to try a few things out and if it doesn't work out as planned that is OK so long as I have learnt something.

View attachment 282243

Some History of the “Hunt” Ships

I did some research on these ships to find out a bit more about them. So far I have only found a limited amount of information, but I will search on and hopefully turn up some more detail.

Acknowledgment: most of the information has come from the Marine Preservation Society Website MSV-HEILIGENHAFEN E.V. (msv-heiligenhafen.de)

Ships of this type were developed by a number of States surrounding the Baltic and were very common throughout the 19th and into the early 20th century. They were very capable, sturdily built vessels of about 20T and were primarily used as light coastal cargo ships as well as for ferrying passengers and providing mail services. The type disappeared after the introduction of larger and powered vessels and there are no original surviving examples.

The construction of these ships was basic, functional and with very few adornments (if any). They were work-a-day vessels rigged for easy handling with minimum crew. As a gaff cutter rigged mostly with wide jib, they were equipped for sailing in all winds with the aim of reaching destinations quickly and safely. The type had a continuous mast, shallow draft and in the rear area was often an owner's cabin which sometimes had one or two stern windows. Otherwise, the ship had a fairly bulbous hull to provide a lot of loading space.

The largest number of these types of ship were built in Denmark and were primarily known as "Dansk Jagt” - Danish Hunt ships. Other Baltic States built variants including Norway “Norsk Jakt”, Germany “Deutsche Jagd ” and Sweden “Sverigejakt”. Where the “Hunt” type of ship actually originated is not known precisely but because many were built in Denmark, it is most likely that is where they began their development.

In Denmark they were nicknamed "Peare Skude", which I believe translates as Apple Pram (or Pramm?) and in German coastal areas they were called "Aeppelkaehne", or Apple Barge. This was because their primary cargos were the seasonal perishable crops of the Baltic states and islands such as pears and apples. The term “Hunt” is also a little lost to history, but as far as I have found out, they were called that because their main task was to transport the perishable harvests once per year but the permanent captains had to provide an up-keep on their own responsibility for the rest of the year. They would therefore need to “hunt” for cargo and trade ( it seems the most plausible reason for this term, but that may have been misinterpreted over the years?).

In the 1970’s and 80’s a number of replica ships were built by the Danish boat builder Michael Kiersgaard to a design that retained much of the original historic character of the “Danske Jagt'' but modified for pleasure use with the hold space converted into cabins and a galley with the inclusion of an auxiliary diesel engine. Nine ships were built over this period. The “Olifant”, launched July 1977, is one of those ships and is now preserved by the association "Museumsschiff Heiligenhafe e.V.'' as a museum ship based in Heiligenhafe in Northern Germany.

The Model Kit

Whilst looking for references I did come across another kit of this type by Billing Boats (BB800 - Regina), which was a plank on frame model but they stopped producing it some years ago. Comparing images of the two, it is very similar to the Yuanqing model so I will cross-reference between them and decide which way to go. I will also attempt to find out a bit more about the replica ships in order to glean some details of how they are fitted out and rigged. I don’t know if the kit follows the original historical design or if it is based on the replica ships (should be interesting to find out).

What’s- in-the-box?

Well…….not that much!

As expected the model, as is the ship, pretty basic. There is a CD instruction video that I have not explored yet but hopefully, it will provide enough information to complete the build. 1:1 drawing plans are included ( not very well printed) and there is also a deck plan with some instructions and construction drawings that are in Chinese (I will attempt to decipher them with a translation app.) but they are not very detailed (I expect all the information is on the CD). The construction of the model looks straightforward and I have found some detailed pictures on the ZHL website so I should be able to go about the build logically without too much reliance on the instructions anyway.

Overall, the kit parts look quite good quality. The main skeleton parts are of good quality 2mm birch ply and the laser cutting looks very well done. The other laser cut wood parts are in a variety of solid woods which vary in thickness from 2-2.7mm. There is a separate set of frames with a building jig and plastic former for the row boat together with some laser cut oak parts. The general fittings look of reasonable/good quality and are made in a variety of materials. The belays and anchors are white metal (I will replace the belays with wood ones). The waxed thread is in a variety of sizes and supplied in both black and tan colour for standing and running rigging. The deadeyes and blocks are CNC and look very good quality. Eyelets are standard brass. There is a set of pre-sewn sails included which I have not yet unpacked so I have not determined if they are fit for purpose (I am hoping that they are better than the ones that Artesania supplied for my Bluenose II - see my last log for my little rant!).

The strip wood all looks of good quality and there seems to be a more than ample supply of all the sizes. The planking strips are nicely finished and are very consistent in size. There is a set of laser cut and finished oak deck planking strips which are very nicely done. The 2nd planking decorative strips are in sapele and oak and are again well finished. Other strips are in a variety of woods - oak, birch and teak and are all well finished. The mast, bow-sprit, boom, gaff and spar are nicely pre-tapered and look to be in light oak.
I will gauge the quality of the laser cut parts once I start to assemble the bulkheads, deck and false keel and see how they all fit together.

As this will be my first complete log on SOS, I will update as I progress the build, but just out of the box, I think the quality is quite good and the model should come together nicely.

Everything in the box:

View attachment 282245

The frame Parts:

View attachment 282248
Laser cut parts:

View attachment 282247

Fittings packs

View attachment 282246

1:1 plan and deck plan

View attachment 282242


View attachment 282244


********************************************************************************************************
AND…….. Some new toys for Xmas!

I decided to treat myself to a few useful tools. A decent scroll saw, a mid-priced 5” disc sander, a mini 3” chop saw and a (very cheap) small bench drill. They seem to be “good enough” but there are a few quality issues and they are certainly not precision tools. The bench drill is probably the worst of the bunch and I will probably up-grade that for something better in the future. However, they all should be perfectly OK for my basic needs and I will make a few modifications and upgrades to improve them. They will certainly help to make things a lot quicker than using a coping saw and hand sanding everything.


I thought I would practice using them over the Xmas and New Year holidays while I was doing nothing else. I came across Ross McSweeney’s little dinghy kinetic wave sculpture on YouTube and thought it would be an interesting and fun little project to do and I could try out all my new tools. I figured out a design looking at his video but reduced the size by about 50%. I made up most of the parts from scrap wood and off-cuts. The base is made from an old kitchen chopping board, cut down and sanded. The only bits I bought were the ply discs to make the cams (£3 for 100 discs = not worth making my own for that price) and a big bag of ¼ x ¼” wood strip off-cuts which I obtained from a craft shop. Everything was done on the fly and I just winged it on measurements based on what I had available. The whole thing was done over a few evenings over the holiday period and was quite fun to do. All the parts were CA glued together.

The little sailing dinghy is made from birch veneer, some spare sapele strips, a bamboo skewer for the mast and a cocktail stick for the boom. It took me about 1 hr to make and I thought it came out quite well and since it was a “scratch build”, I can probably justify putting it up on SOS!

Hope you like the video.

View attachment 282250

********************************************************************************************************
Hallo @DomCee
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Part 3. Decking

Unfortunately a hand injury stopped me working on the model but I have now managed to make some progress over the last few days.

I decided to do some work on the decking before I move onto the first planking. I also lined the hold areas that were visible through the hatch ways as I will leave these open and add some cargo for display.

The kit came with an ample supply of laser cut planking strips and because this is a practice piece I decided to use some thread to simulate the caulking rather than using a pencil (or sharpie). To stiffen the thread I ran it through some clear PVA and then wiped it down and dried it off. At smaller scales, I do not think using thread adds much over a black line, but at this larger scale I thought it would look better. The decks are open so there are no considerations for any other structures that need to be in place before I fit the false decks and then glue the decking down. On this model, the bulk head stanchions will be removed after the planking, so it is actually easier to fit the decking afterwards anyway.

My method for preparing the decking is to glue the deck strips onto some wax free tracing paper rather like a laminate using the false decks as a template. I lined out the tracing paper and planked to the lines and over the edges.

decks 1.JPG

The small pieces of thread across the joints were very fiddly but fortunately there were not many of them to do. I sandwiched the deck between two boards with a weight on top and let everything dry. I trimmed to the finished size and gave the planking a scrape with a razor and a very light rub with fine emery. I tested a fine-line pigment ink marker on a scrap strip but the ink spread through the grain so I used a fine pencil to simulate the planking nails at the joints.

decks 2.JPG


I will move onto the hull planking next.
 
Part 4. First Planking Underway
Finally had some time to get the planking started. I was in two minds about fully blocking the hull. It is quite a small ship and in the end, I decided it was not really necessary to do this. The two fore and the four rear bulkheads are only 2cm centre and the rest are 4cm so there is plenty of support for the planking strips. I just used some small fillers where the planks meet the bow and I filled the stern that will help attach the planks that form the transom later. I made a slight error and fared the No.2 bulkhead too far but I was able to correct it with some epoxy putty and reshape it.

On my previous builds I used a nipper type plank bender which worked fine, but I found that because it crushes the wood slightly it can leave the planking uneven. I thought I would try some other methods to see if they were any better (or worse) for me. The aim of the exercise was to find out which method gave the best result. I tried using a mandrel with my laundry steam iron. I spotted the mandrel (which is used for shaping metal bands) at a craft shop.

mandrel.JPG




It has a number of sections which are quite wide so it is very easy to use the narrow part of the iron on it. I ran the steam iron over the damp strip, pressing lightly down on the part of the mandrel that matched the curve I was looking for. By placing the strips at an angle I could also put a twist or lateral bend into the wood. I found this method worked well and I was able to shape the planks with no scorching or damage to them. I also bought a heated shaping tool to see if that was any better. I found that the main advantage of the shaping tool was that it was easier to make a tighter radius on the plank but, otherwise, both methods worked fine. Where I had some high spots I still used the nippers to get the adjacent planks level. My conclusion was that depending on how the planks sat on the skeleton a combination of methods were needed. Overall, it was a very useful learning exercise for future builds.

Onto the planking itself, I started from the deck level because this the plank is fully attached to the bulkheads, bow and stern. The planks to the top of the bulwarks are only attached at the bow and to the adjacent plank, so I had to make sure they were well stuck together. I did not want the upper planks sticking to the stanchions because they will be removed at the next stage so I used some masking tape on them and used lots of clamps to hold the upper strips in place. Very slow going waiting for the glue to fully cure before I could move onto the next planks. Hopefully it will be a little faster for the lower planks because I can pin them to the bulkheads.

Room for some more clamps?

Hull planking 1.JPG
 
Part 5. Progress on the First Planking - Need Some Advice Please.

Making progress. I was able to place 7 full strips from the top of the bulwarks without too much trouble. I measured off the remaining open hull so that I had 5 plank widths from the keel and set one full plank as my planking line and worked up to close off the upper hull. Hull planking 2.JPG

Here is the upper hull closed off . I have also placed one plank towards the keel so that I am at the top of the stern post.


Hull planking 3.JPG

All good, but now I need some advice please about closing off the bottom of the hull to the keel. The instructions are a little vague as to the planking to the keel and the stern post.

Hull planking 4.JPG

They appear to have not continued the planking to the bottom of the keel (garboard) also there is not a separate stern post. It looks like they cut away the planks and sanded the planks down before the second planking and used a thin sapele strip glued along the keel board to form the stern post. This looks rather odd, would it be better to taper the keel board and continue the planking to cover the rest of the keel and then sand down? Any comments are welcome. Thanks.

I have attached the images from the instructions that are relevant.instructions hull.JPG
 
Part 6. First Planking Completed.

I decided to more or less follow the process suggested in the instruction images. I used a bit of masking tape on the stern post edge to stop the planks from sticking there and then continued to plank down to close off the lower hull. After trimming the planks and forming the transom I went over the hull with some coarse grit, tapered down the planks that meet the stern post and the lower plank to the keel board and then gave the hull a light skim with some wood putty and finished off with some medium grit. The hull is now nicely shaped and is ready for the 2nd planking. Overall the first planking process went well with no major hiccoughs.


Hull planking 5.JPGHull planking 6.JPGHull planking 7.JPG

The suggested next stage for the 2nd planking uses lighter wood strips ( I think cherry wood) along the bulwarks and inner gunwales and darker sapele strips on the rest of the hull. It looks fine but the sapele strips do not start at the indicated water line and I have decided to paint the bottom of the hull with a black paint to simulate pitch-pine. To avoid a “three tone” hull finish (which I think would not look right - any comments?) I will completely cover the hull in just one type of strip which would be more accurate. I like the lighter cherry wood but I do not have enough strips and I am unable to source anymore because of all the supply issues. I think my only option is to fully cover the hull with sapele strips as I have a plentiful supply of those.



flags 3.JPG
 
Part 7. Second Planking

I have not had much time to work on the model but I managed to get some work done over the last few days on the 2nd planking. I have made a slight change of course after my Superior Officer pointed out that if I covered the hull with the sapele strips, the black paint below the water line on the dark wood would not have much contrast and would look odd. She liked the two wood finish even if the dark strips do not follow the water line. I was unable to source any cherry strips of the correct size other than waiting weeks for stocks to arrive and I did not want to buy a complete set of alternative strips. Therefore, I decided to go with the cherry/sapele wood finish and I will not be painting below the water line. I would have preferred a single wood finish but, as this is just a practice ship, it will still look OK and I can finish it with some better detailing.

I covered the transom with the cherry strips and then used five cherry and one sapele wood strip from the tops of the bulwarks and one strip at the bottom of the hull where it meets the keel. All were full width strips. I used some masking tape where the stern post is positioned to stop the planking strips sticking there and I then measured off the remaining uncovered portion of the hull following Olha Batchvarov’s method she used on her HMS Pegasus HMS PEGASUS (1776) - Amati - Scale 1:64 | Page 4 | Ships of Scale. Unfortunately, I messed up and made very heavy weather of it. Looking at it again, I realised I should not have added the keel strip and started tapering from the gunwales. The problem was that the very bulbous shape of the hull made it very difficult to get the strips to follow the hull line and I had to re-adjust the tapering as I planked down to the keel. As a result I could not get a whole number of strips to fit the widest part and I ended up with a very annoying gap which needed a small filler. Fortunately, I managed to get the gap to the bottom of the hull where it was not very noticeable. It was a complete pain to correct as I went along so I will have to look at how other people have tackled this type of hull shape if I do another model of this type. I did however learn a lot and I should be better at it next time. To finish the outer planking I used some pieces of strip to cover the rest of the exposed keel and the stern post.

Hull planking 8.JPGHull planking 9.JPGHull planking 10.JPG


I will fit the rubbing strakes next before I fit the decks because I will be able to use clamps to hold the strakes in place. After fitting the decks I can cut off the bulkhead stanchions and plank the inner gunwales and then I can clean up the hull planks and seal the wood.
 
Very nice build log, I'll gladly follow along. Especially because the ship does look very similar to my recent build of a "Holstein Jacht" (with a build log in a German speaking forum). Seems that general type of vessel was quite common in that area...

IMG_20220402_154750.jpg

Planking that rather bulbous hull can be quiet a pain, that's one thing I remember only too well.... You certainly did a pretty good job here!

Cheers, Frank
 
Last edited:
Very nice build log, I'll gladly follow along. Especially because the ship does look very similar to my recent build of a "Holstein Jacht" (with a build log in a German speaking forum). Seems that general type of vessel was quite common in that area...

View attachment 302670

Planking that rather bulbous hull can be quiet a pain, that's one thing I remember only too well.... You certainly did a pretty good job here!

Cheers, Frank
Hi Frank,

Very nice model, was this a kit or scratch built from a plan? I haven't seen other models of this type other than the Billing Boats one, so yours is the only other I have seen. Your "Holstein" does look to be similar to the Yuanquing version with the square + fore and aft rig. Do you have a link to your DE build log, it will be nice to compare the construction, thanks. The main difference I can see is that the YQ model has raised decks fore and aft but otherwise the hull line is pretty much the same.

Thanks

Dom.
 
Hi Dom,

it's a kit from GK Modellbau, but the one on the web site is a newer version. The build log can be found here: Holsteinische Jacht .

My first build of a kit that size. The hull planking was a catastrophe covered up with generous amounts of paint. I was lucky to get some help from the forum members, some of them real experts for these vessels.

Cheers,
Frank
 
Last edited:
Hi Frank,
Thanks, I have not seen any kits from GK so I looked at their catalogue and there are a few interesting models that I may consider for a future build. Your model looks very good, I have hidden a lot of sins under filler and paint on some of my earlier models so what's underneath is between the model and the modeller! Thanks for the link but it looks like I need to register to view it.
 
Back
Top