Design and build model ships from scratch.

T

Toleolu

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Honolulu Hi.
I was surprised to find that you can get, what appears to be, some pretty decent table/bench mounted saws for hobby level work of this type for a couple hundred bucks a pop.

I've got space for something like that, so now that's got me thinking about roughing out some of my own designs and building those, in addition to kits.

I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of that. I just wonder how many other people had the same great idea and, for whatever reason, all that equipment ends up just sitting around.
 
yup i have been doing judt thst for many years

i suggest looking into home use size tools and not the little hobby tools. Or else you will find yourself haveing to purchase resawn sheet stock witch kind of defeats the purpose of DIY approach.
 
I was looking at things like that Wen scroll saw and some of the MicroLux stuff. The Proxxon products get mentioned a lot as well. Thinking maybe start with a scroll saw and a table saw.

Still, I am talking about a small space here, about 10 X 10. Ventilation is OK and I've got a 2 HP Shop Vac so I like the saws that have the hose attachments. I'm not too concerned about noise, those saws don't appear to be much louder than my shop vac, but that's still something to think about.

But I like the idea of sketching something out on paper and then building it.
 
I find that being able to use woodworking tools in my shop lets me repair, add or augment my kit builds. I haven't yet considered scratch building. I do have a full woodshop and added a Proxxon mini tablesaw to mill grates. It all helps!
 
For many years I had a really good 10" contractors saw that served my woodworking needs very well. When parts for it became unavailable I had to dispose of it and started looking for a newer version for replacement. Meanwhile, my son-in-law gave me one of his two DeWalt 10" bench-top saws. To my surprise, it proves to be an excellent saw! Very carefully I set all the adjustments per the instructions in the owners manual and they have held extremely well for a few years now. The table top is somewhat smaller than my previous saw, but the great performance outshines all the bad comments people make about these kinds of saws. It has a 10" blade that I most often use, but I also have several 7" blades, including some fine-toothed planer blades from my portable circular saw. Those blade are about 1/16" thick and the cut very smoothly. If I only built models, I might consider a smaller saw built specifically for modelling, but my DeWalt satisfies all my needs for both worlds of woodworking. Just consider your needs and get what suits you best.
Happy Modelling
Steven
 
SAHaskell said:
Oops! Forgot to attach photos
Here they are.

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One or two items not mentioned unless I missed them are a planer to work larger pieces down to small thicknesses or a sander which can handle wider stock feeding it through to small mm thicknesses. It would seem that if we are talking about cutting large boards into small model sized pieces that it is a sequence of cutting and reducing to arrive at what we may be looking to order commercially. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
 
PT-2 said:
One or two items not mentioned unless I missed them are a planer to work larger pieces down to small thicknesses or a sander which can handle wider stock feeding it through to small mm thicknesses. It would seem that if we are talking about cutting large boards into small model sized pieces that it is a sequence of cutting and reducing to arrive at what we may be looking to order commercially. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
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Do you know of a good planer suitable for modeling?
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Do you know of a good planer suitable for modeling?
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Not by specific model as I don't have one but see some members calling them something like thinning sanders or devices. You will likely get several suggested to follow up with. You may post a specific request for this. Sorry not to be of more specific help. Rich (PT-2)
 
@SAHaskell

Nice saw. I like DeWalt, never disappointed with any of their stuff I've bought in the past. That particular saw would no doubt work, but a new equivalent looks to be close to 400 dollars and while I'm sure it's worth it, that might be a little more than I need to spend at this time.

@PT-2

I like the idea of having a planer, but that might be more of a down the road kind of thing for me. I think in the short term, I can get by without one, kind of see how things go then start adding toys as needed. Then again there's the space consideration. Two power tools like I'm talking about is doable, three might be pushing the envelope a bit.

In my head right now, I'm thinking a table saw, primarily for ripping planking, and a scroll saw to cut shaped pieces.

Micro Mark has that MicroLux All In One saw, basically just a scroll saw with a rip fence attachment, looks like it would handle both, but I'm just not sure how well it would work when it comes to ripping planking. I'm not saying it wouldn't do it, I've just got the feeling that when it comes to long clean straight rips, a table saw is the better way to go. Proper tool for the proper job kind of thing.

Has anyone tried using the MicroLux All In One to rip planking or making other long, clean, straight cuts?

Thanks
 
I have a related post going in the Tools section of the forum and DonFarr suggested the Performax band saw. He said he gets good results ripping planking with it and it will easily handle the shapes I'll be cutting for now. I can always add a small table saw later if needed.

I'm still a week or so out on pulling the trigger on any of this, but I'm thinking starting with the band saw might be a good plan for someone just getting started on putting together a small woodworking shop?

As always, your thoughts and comments much appreciated.

I forgot to add:

@DARIVS ARCHITECTVS

In that post in the Tools section, the Brynes Thickness Sander was mentioned as a good planer for modeling.

Thanks
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Do you know of a good planer suitable for modeling?
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Any decent planer will do. I own the DeWalt. Most only plane to 1/8". The best way to get thin stock is to resaw your stock. It can be milled as thin as veneers. Done typically with a bandsaw. I plane boards square before resawing. Milling wood is a step by step process and can be spendy. Including the wood.
 
Philski said:
Any decent planer will do. I own the DeWalt. Most only plane to 1/8". The best way to get thin stock is to resaw your stock. It can be milled as thin as veneers. Done typically with a bandsaw. I plane boards square before resawing. Milling wood is a step by step process and can be spendy. Including the wood.
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It does produce a lot of sawdust which you have to think about how that can be used;-) Rich (PT-2)
 
Maybe it is an idea to buy a lathe with some additions, like for instance a table saw. I have a small Unimat lathe (just 40 cm), which works very well and the table saw was the best thing I ever could lay my hands on. It easily saws up to 1 cm thick pear wood. Actually I won it many years ago in a contest, organized by the import firm here for Unimat stuff. I never looked for any kit again.

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Ab Hoving said:
Maybe it is an idea to buy a lathe with some additions, like for instance a table saw. I have a small Unimat lathe (just 40 cm), which works very well and the table saw was the best thing I ever could lay my hands on. It easily saws up to 1 cm thick pear wood. Actually I won it many years ago in a contest, organized by the import firm here for Unimat stuff. I never looked for any kit again.

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I could use a tiny table saw. I'm using this old American Eagle 10" table saw, and If I try to rip small sticks of wood, it's dangerous to fingers, and often launches the pieces across the ship like arrows. I need a small saw for better control, and one with a kerf less than a monstrous 3/32" (waste of wood).

I have this Proxxon 12V DC transformer and near useless Proxxon hand held vibrating sander, but is there a small Proxxon table saw that also uses this transformer?
 
I have made planking starting from logs using a craftsman table saw. It is a 9" with a high tooth finishing blade. It is capable of less than 1/16" thickness. By controlling the thickness I was able to make ship planking first cutting the planking thickness and next by cutting the planking width. I followed up with a drill press sander to finish the edges both width and thickness. I also have a small 4" table saw for very fine work.
 
WDO said:
I have made planking starting from logs using a craftsman table saw. It is a 9" with a high tooth finishing blade. It is capable of less than 1/16" thickness. By controlling the thickness I was able to make ship planking first cutting the planking thickness and next by cutting the planking width. I followed up with a drill press sander to finish the edges both width and thickness. I also have a small 4" table saw for very fine work.
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Thin kerf sawblades usually have a kerf that is 1/16" wide.
 
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