Different paint

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Johnrichards07

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Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between paint bought in a craft shop to those supplied the model manufactuer. I am having trouble with patches in the paint work
 
Johnrichards07 said:
Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between paint bought in a craft shop to those supplied the model manufactuer. I am having trouble with patches in the paint work
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Yes there is.

Good quality model paint has finely ground pigments, and a high ratio of pigment to binder to allow for the smaller painting surfaces.

Craft shop paint is meant for amateurs to use on a larger canvas. It's often not much better than the stuff we paint our walls with.

(Artists quality paint from an art shop is also finely ground and, like model paints, is rather expensive.)
 
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Exactly what Smithy said. In addition, you may get differences in color if you are painting on wood and there is a spot that has glue on it. The paint will somewhat penetrate the wood but will only lay on top of the glue. Or different kinds of wood if you have some parts that are balsa and others that are plywood or parts that are wood and parts that are plastic or metal.
An undercoat of primer will help with these situations.
 
Johnrichards07 said:
Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between paint bought in a craft shop to those supplied the model manufactuer. I am having trouble with patches in the paint work
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If you're experiencing patchiness, the craft paint may be the culprit. You might want to experiment with:
  • Proper Priming: Ensure your model is primed with a primer specifically designed for plastics. This will significantly improve the adhesion of any paint, including craft paints.
  • Careful Thinning: Craft paints usually need to be thinned with water or a suitable acrylic thinner to achieve a consistency that works well for models. Experiment to find the right ratio.
  • Multiple Thin Coats: Apply several thin coats of the craft paint instead of one or two thick coats. This can help to achieve more even coverage and reduce the risk of patchiness.
  • Trying Model Paints: If you want the best possible finish and are finding it difficult to work with craft paints, consider switching to a reputable brand of model paints (e.g., Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel, AK).
I hope this helps!
 
There is also a wide range of types of paints (which now seem to be increasingly generically called "coatings.") Two main types encountered in modeling are oil-based paint and acrylic paint. Different types of "coatings" are sometimes incompatible with others. Then, there are wide variations in quality, as noted above. There is a learning curve involved in painting and much more to it that simply slapping it on. Consideration must be given to sealers, primers, and finish coats, all which must be compatible with its neighbor. Surely as much as anything else, if not more so, painting a ship model is critical to its final quality. For this reason, studying painting is a worthwhile endeavor for any modeler. In an effort to maximize sales, paint manufacturers tend to "dumb down" painting to attract the DIY market. Painting a model well takes much more knowledge and expertise than rolling a coat of latex on your kitchen wall. ;)
 
Corsair said:
Exactly what Smithy said. In addition, you may get differences in color if you are painting on wood and there is a spot that has glue on it. The paint will somewhat penetrate the wood but will only lay on top of the glue. Or different kinds of wood if you have some parts that are balsa and others that are plywood or parts that are wood and parts that are plastic or metal.
An undercoat of primer will help with these situations.
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Exactly that and some wood types of my (unfortunate) acquaintance are oily and will resist water based paint to the death.
 
Smithy said:
Exactly that and some wood types of my (unfortunate) acquaintance are oily and will resist water based paint to the death.
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That is where a seal coat of shellac helps. It will stick to most anything (sometimes pre-wiping with alcohol or acetone helps with oily wood), and you can cover shellac with most any type of primer/topcoat.
 
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