Dr. Y Bluenose [COMPLETED BUILD]

Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
148
Points
113

Location
California
Hello fellow modelers. I have been watching this group build and have learned a great deal. Not the least of which have been my own lack of talent and experience.
All of you have been very generous sharing your explanations and photos. I am taking a bit of a plunge to share some of my photos beginning the bluenose which is my first POF model. I definitely have some significant shortcomings, and welcome any constructive criticism. Have been working about five or six weeks now and certainly welcome any suggestions.
frame 31.jpegfirst.jpegJig day one.jpeg
 
Now for the difficulty I am facing. Top view of the hull which shows some frames not quite in line and the work ahead to fair the hull. I am not sure where i went wrong. Hopefully it can all be sanded/and or filled to make it right. Would appreciate any thoughts. Won't be working on the project for the next ten days, but then hope to be back and make some headway. Regards to all

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Hi Phil. Great you started with the build of your BN and started a build-log.
You will realize that you will receive advice from all sides.
I will ad the link to your build-log on the BN-list soon.

I will start with some advice.
My first impression when I saw your frames in your posts #2 and #3, it was like ...... phoe-phoe ..... But they where there dry fitted. ;)
At first be sure the bottom of the jig is complete flat on a solid surface.
Like several other builders, we screwed the 'thin' base plate of the jig to a sturdy board. Because the jig can easily bend a bit.

I took some cutouts from your photos and added some arrows.
Phil.jpg
Make sure that the ends of the frames are aligned in height / depth and width with the recesses in the jig. As show in the right picture from the frames in my jig.
About the aligning of the outside of frames.
Take a strip of wood and hold it over the frames and check the alignment.
The frame with arrow A has the bevel on the wrong side. But I think there is wood enough the sand it in line.
By the frame with arrow B, check if the tip of the frame sits ok in the recess of the jig. You can push it a little bit into the jig to flatten the curve slightly. But you can also sand it off. But be careful with this, as you know, they are thin and fragile.
Keep on checking with the wood strip over the full hull to check the alignments.
It there is a frame 'under the line', perhaps you can push it a bit up to make the curve bulge out slightly.
If the frames are still not glued in the jig, check them carefully with the frame drawings.
Hopefully this will give you some help.
Regards, Peter
 
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I agree with what Peter said. Thus far, there are a few things that require precision. One is the gluing and beveling of the frames. The other is the placement of the frames in the jig and keel.
At this point, you can see if you can make any adjustments to the frames as Peter mentioned above. The upper part of the frame, that goes into the jig, has to be sanded to fit the slot in the jig. Be sure to take width off the same side of each frame. Once all the upper frames are fully seated into the jig properly, that should help ensure alignment.
Next you will start the internal frame work. And after that comes the installation of the deck beams. Once that is done, you will have enough support to fair the hull. So for now, just see if any frames are not glued into the jig properly, and fix them if you can, then move on.
In conclusion, I think you are off to a good start. Welcome aboard and glad to see your build log!
 
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I glued just the edge of the frames to the jig, and found it easy to break some of them loose to fair the hull shape better, thus reducing the final sanding/filing.
It looked like your frames were jigged to pieces of corrugated cardboard. If so, were they flat enough?
I was there five months ago. I struggled with opening the slots in frames, keel and others. The laser cutting is accurate, but parts thickness is not. Not easy to stay square. Or keep the corners sharp. A good file is needed to maintain seating depth.
 
Thanks to all of you. Of course I should have known. I did a dry fit first, but these are now glued in place.
I only put small amounts of glue in the frames at the jig initially. Using alcohol and a small syringe and needle (27 gauge), I injected the joints and was able to pry them loose, pretty easily using a small awl wedged in as a fulcrum. It is challenging and has to be done carefully because the frames are fragile. I corrected some of them but have more to go
I will be away for a few days, but will definitely post again in a couple of weeks when all is corrected.
Thanks again. IMG_0308.JPEG
 
Thanks to all of you. Of course I should have known. I did a dry fit first, but these are now glued in place.
I only put small amounts of glue in the frames at the jig initially. Using alcohol and a small syringe and needle (27 gauge), I injected the joints and was able to pry them loose, pretty easily using a small awl wedged in as a fulcrum. It is challenging and has to be done carefully because the frames are fragile. I corrected some of them but have more to go
I will be away for a few days, but will definitely post again in a couple of weeks when all is corrected.
Thanks again. View attachment 251880
Glad to hear you are taking the time to correct it. We have all had to back track and redo some things. ;)
 
Hi Phil,
Good that you started a build log

I agree with the other builders above,
I have one more small addition

I don't think it is very nice to post my photos on someone else's report

See my comments in my report #33, #34
 
Hi Phil. From my side a bleated WELCOME to the Groups Build section. It is wonderful that you have started your log and you will see that the advice and support that you receive from everyone is unique. You have done a fine job until now - heed the suggestions already passed on to you and all will be well.
 
Thank you Heinrich and to all who helped my needed corrections. I am now back home and able to resume my BN journey. The ends of all frames are now flush with the bottom of the jig and are somewhat more in alignment, though not perfect. I hope to make further adjustments with sanding at the appropriate stage.
A few photos to demonstrate. Welcome any comments, criticism and corrections.
I will be continuing with construction and posting progress going forward.

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Hello to all. I did not take long to find another significant problem, and I am reaching out, once again for guidance and advice..
After instialling ribs 50 to 55, I did a dri fit of parts 51 and 52 on one side and discovered they do not line up properly. I think the problem is as follows. I believe I do not have the 50-55 ribs seated properly in the keel and that throws everything off. Belos are two photos of parts 51 and 52. They can be adjusted to be parallel quite easily, but the side view (second photo( shows that they do not line up with the keel.
IMG_0380.JPEGIMG_0381.JPEG
 
And a couple of more views, the outside which shows the ribs are surely not seated properly from outside the hull and a further photo showing inside the hull. I am thinking these ribs should be seated flush with the keel from the inside. I can take these ribs down (although glued) and correct them, but will wait to hear from anyone who is generous enough to comment, before proceeding. Thanks in advance and warm regards to all. IMG_0384.JPEGIMG_0388.JPEG
 
And a couple of more views, the outside which shows the ribs are surely not seated properly from outside the hull and a further photo showing inside the hull. I am thinking these ribs should be seated flush with the keel from the inside. I can take these ribs down (although glued) and correct them, but will wait to hear from anyone who is generous enough to comment, before proceeding. Thanks in advance and warm regards to all. View attachment 253860View attachment 253861
Yes, these are incorrect. The flat spot should be in the notch of the keel, and the angled tip close to the bevel in the keel. As you said, flush with the keel inside edge.
I will post pics for reference…
 
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Also try to maintain the same distance between frames. They will be the same in the jig and keel due to notches, but they can be twisted from top to bottom and the distance will vary, as seen in some of your views posted. I used a square dowel, the same dimension as the distance between notches, to put in between the frames when gluing in. This ensures they were parallel to each other and maintained proper spacing. This will also come into play when you put in the waterway boards for the deck. If the frames are not spaced correctly, the notches in the waterway boards will not line up. That has to be done prior to adding internal beams.
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