Edge bending planks.

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My current build is a harbor tug from Model Expo. What is the best way to edge bend? I've tried everything. Soaking the planks in warm water, handheld scoring pliers and other methods and I've been disappointed with all of the the results. There is no way I can clamp the cap-rail to the bulwarks due to the hull bottom shape. Help!
 
Maybe you find something in this thread.
 
It's important to choose the right wood for edge bending. Mahogany and walnut want to split. Bass wood is soft but can edge bend pretty well. Linden wood also bends well. Bending birch is the most flexible, and you can even tie it into knots. The trick is applying and much support as you can to prevent puckers form occuring. Tere are many jigs people have made that can do this. Also, if you bend it too far, wood will splinter, so don't bend it any farther that it can take. In extreme cases, where you need a very sharp curve, use an extra-wide plank and spile it (cut it the shape of the curve). Even on hulls with the most bluff bow, the planks should not need to be curved so much that they begin to splinter, if your edge mending technique and tooling is good.
 
In building real wooden ships planks are not edge bent for the reasons you list above. Instead, as Kurt describes, planks are spiled; each plank is sculpted to fit the natural shape of the hull. Planking with strip wood is a short cut by the kit manufacturer.

Since you are modeling a tug, I assume that the actual vessel was steel hulled and you intend to paint it. If so, try planking without edge bending. This would involve laying planks as they naturally want to bend. This will leave open triangular areas. These are filled with stealers; short pieces of planking. The resulting planking job will be patchwork but by sanding and filling you should wind up with a surface that can be painted.

Roger
 
My current build is a harbor tug from Model Expo. What is the best way to edge bend? I've tried everything. Soaking the planks in warm water, handheld scoring pliers and other methods and I've been disappointed with all of the the results. There is no way I can clamp the cap-rail to the bulwarks due to the hull bottom shape. Help!
I have never been able to get a satisfactory result edge bending something as wide as a cap rail for the section near the bow where the curvature is extreme. I trace the shape on a piece of card then use this as a template to saw out a piece of rail from sheet wood to give a good fit. Alternately, you can trace the shape onto a piece of scrap wood and saw it out to use as a former. Soak strip wood and then bend it and clamp it to the former and let it dry. You can then glue the strips together edge wise to make a laminated rail. After sanding and painting the seams do not show.
 
Maybe you find something in this thread.
Cut them out of wider pieces and shape them.
 
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