EFIM NIKONOV 1721 [COMPLETED BUILD]

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Hi

After 3 days non stopping working on the Red Dragon i decided to stop it a few days and start a new project. No... i will not leave the Red Dragon as it is. It will be finished !!!

This kit was a present of my oldest son a few months ago. He got it from ZHL MODELS.

On this link you will find an excellent review of the kit with many links to what is known about this submarine.


You will see that at the stage I am now, it will be nice to add some interior features. But I can only find a picture at this site:



Screenshot_20200702-194027_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20200702-194123_Chrome.jpg

If anyone have the skills to find more interior images It will be greatly appreciate !!!

If I do some interior, I do not like the idea of adding LEDs. Just I do not like to see a wire going to a battery power and a switch.

Another option will be to do it as it is. And do another one cut by half. Showing all the inside. For that I will need more pictures. I can risk another kit as the price is something like $70 shipped to USA from China.

Ok, let's show what I did today.

It all start here

20200702_141807_05.jpg20200702_141834.jpg

They snap very tight !!! I broke a couple that I glued at the end. It finish being a strong structure. My mistake was to start adding them in oposite sides. Just add one after the other, going all around.

20200702_171338.jpg20200702_171353.jpg

Did a good sanding to have all well shaped so "planks" will fit all the way. Like when we do the ship hull.

I cut the extra "wood extensions", sanded and glued the "artificial planking". It was already done and I highlighted the planks with pencil.20200702_173739.jpg

I had to use all those clamps because after placing the pice of wood over the wood-glue it started to bent. It was alive :). It is so thin that needed to be kept in place.

That is all for now.

Cheers
Daniel
 
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This morning I woke up thinking that this kit was a present so instead of risking its ruin by trying to do an interior, I will built it as it was designed.

I will order another one to try the Anatomy of the sub following this drawing posted by Uwek on a link.

Screenshot_20200703-135216_Chrome.jpg

Being taken a decision, I went to my working place and starting the Sub planking.

You have to place first the Plank # 12 that goes at the top middle and from there you go down, left and right, one and one (planks #13)

20200703_095740.jpg20200703_105108.jpg


You continue all the way down. The kit says do corrections if needed. I only had to sand one a little in the center. They are already shaped.

BUT !!!! when I arrived to the last plank I was sure I will find a problem......because I am not perfect :).

20200703_174936.jpg
I didn't have space for a full plank. Probably due to the sum of small mistakes along the planking. After 45 minutes of painfully shaping a plank, I was able to cover the space with a full length plank.... hurray. Fortunately is at the bottom and noone will turn upside down the sub.... i hope :)

You can see the shaped plank on the below picture.
20200703_175640.jpg

Now needs a good sanding to smooth it.

Tomorrow i will test blackening the brass parts. Got something today and I hope it works.

This kit, so far, have been a lot of fun.

QUESTION : how would you stain the wood to give the sub a look like this :

Screenshot_20200702-194201_Chrome.jpg

A few pictures of the planked Sub:

20200703_175748.jpg20200703_175759.jpg20200703_175822.jpg

Cheers
Daniel
 
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Placed an order for another kit from ZHL MODEL.

This will will be the open one. I have in mind a way of planking it, that I hope will stay in place when I cut the skeleton.

I will explain my idea in detail when I start the new thread.

2 Questions :

1) The sub has 350 mm long. What scale that could be, more or less ? (I would like to buy some human figures, if possible)

2) Any suggestions for wood staining to provide a weathering look to the planks ?

Thanks
Daniel
 
Lets see if this work. To help KURT and others with this kit Chinese instruction manual

Page 1

20200704_132626.jpg

First paragraph

Remove the keel from the No. 1 and No. 2 plates, and install according to the above illustration. It should be noted that parts 5 and 6 are relatively fragile. Be careful when installing. After the glue is completely dry, refer to Illustration 2 to highlight the ribs. The part is clear. (my reading = cut the protruding section of the rib)

Second parragraph

Bond the No. 4 rib on the No. 10 plate. Note that the bow and stern must be installed.

"BE CAREFULL" the No 10 and 11 are the same. One for bow and 1 for Stern. There is a typo on the part lists. BEFORE gluing this #10 plates, remove the excess of the ribs ... see drawing

...Wife call for lunch... wil continue later
 
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20200704_132932.jpg

First paragraph

After reading what I pasted before and having fun I better summarize it in my words.

Install plank #12 first. Then follow with planks #13 to each side of plank #12. Due to the high number of strips, small corrections will be needed (see what happened to me with my last strip). The #13 strips have to protrude as the strip #12.

Second parragraph

As shown in the illustration above, parts 34 add to 12 13 skin strips are used to thicken the parts protruding from both ends of the hull. After the glue is completely dry, polish the hull and both ends.

.. Part # 34 are small pieces of wood that have to be glued to give the visual effect that strips 12 and 13 are thicker.....

Kurt... here is where I am so far with the built. I will continue adding as I built.

Cheers
Daniel
 
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Kurt.... my next steps after a good sanding of the sub. Just following instruction manual.

20200704_160342.jpg

1st parragraph
According to the two illustrations above, install the 7th, 8th and 9th parts first. Then install the 14 15 parts 14 15 is slightly larger than the actual size, at the time of installation according to the actual size after grinding and installation.

2nd parragraph

As shown above, use the window template to open the window in the center of the hull. When opening the window, you will encounter the keel and ribs of the internal structure, you can use a knife to remove the overlap with the window.

3rd parragraph
As shown in the figure; make a window and install it in the hole opened in the hull in advance. After the glue is completely dried, the window frame protruding from the hull of the hull is removed.
Under the glass drawing say "attach behind the window).

There is a plastic film (the glass) within the manual pages.
 
I realized pages were clipped after posting. I can rescan and repost if wanted. Let me know.

Yes , thank you. I am sure will be fine.

I ordered another one. If you find a picture/drawing of the inside different of what i posted, please, post it here. I am not a scratch modeler, but will try to do the inside.

Thank you again!
Daniel
 
Hi all

These days I have been working on the sub tower. Just a couple if hours per day. Vacation time ended :-(

It look easy to do, but it has his issues. I started to do it as the kit, but then I didn't like it. The kit has horizontal planks but the Russian replicate has it vertical. So I went to vertical.

Kit (picture from ZHL MODEL):
Screenshot_20200708-082744_Chrome.jpg

Russian replicate

Screenshot_20200708-082827_Chrome.jpg

This is what I did. Unfortunately I didn't have planks a little bit wider. But is fine for me.

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Windows frames are not included in the kit. Took me a lot of time, but it is the first time I successfully do them with the 45 degree angle cut at the corner. Not just a square frame angle (as I was always doing :) )

Lot more to do yet.

Enjoy !!
Daniel
 
Hi all

During the last few evenings I was able to finish the main section of the sub tower. Still missing more details. Also did the side window. Be careful as pieces are very small. Cut the hull and placed the window. Then I started to work on the barrel that was used for breathing.

This sub is a lot of fun and very interesting. But is more difficult than what it looks.

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Cheers
Daniel
 
A few more steps accomplished :)

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Handles were done with a brass tubing provided with the kit and painted black. I still have to add the nails at each side of the handles. For now they are glued.

The rope provided with the kit was stained to provide an old used/dirty look.

This kit is really excellent and provides a lot of satisfaction. And looks great !!

Cheers
Daniel
 
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