Endurance - OcCre - 1:70 - Jeff T [COMPLETED BUILD]

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Bonjour,
Sur l'épave de L'Endurance, la lisse haute de la "rambarde" me parait être en bois ou du moins pas un "fil" du diamètre intermédiaire. Sur le mien, j'essaierai de me rapprocher du plus possible de cette photo. Mais je n'y suis pas encore !! Bonne continuation et je suis très content de voir votre travail !
Tanguy

Hello,
On the wreck of the Endurance, the top rail of the "rail" seems to me to be made of wood or at least not a "wire" of the intermediate diameter. On mine, I will try to get as close as possible to this photo. But I'm not there yet!! Good continuation and I am very happy to see your work!
Tanguy
 
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I have been working on the bowsprit rigging as well as the forecastle fittings. I blackened the chains at the bow but left the hawse hole fitting shiny brass.
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After a lot of thinking, I decided to use the supplied brass railings after blackening them. The cleats on the cathead beams are from some a previous build and replace eyes per the instructions.
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The rail at the rear edge of the forecastle deck is blackened brass rod instead of rigging rope.
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The stern fittings and railing lines are also installed.
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Back to posting some of my recent work on Endurance. I have assembled the masts and added the upper shrouds. I have decided to do as much of the work on the masts as possible off of the ship on the model to see how that works for me.

I don't like the idea of tying off so much of the running rigging to eyebolts on the deck around the mast. So, one of the changes I have decided on is to construct a belaying pin rail around the mast (see post #42). I tried having the rings 3D printed, but the result was not so good. I found some scrap plywood in the size I needed and carefully shaped it into the circular mast pin rails. After making 5 to get 3, I am happy with the result.
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I also added deadeyes to the upper shrouds. The plans didn't call for them, I think they are needed. Also, I added the lower shrouds to each of the masts before assembling the mast.
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Details of the three masts ready for installation of the ratlines on the upper shrouds.
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Back to posting some of my recent work on Endurance. I have assembled the masts and added the upper shrouds. I have decided to do as much of the work on the masts as possible off of the ship on the model to see how that works for me.

I don't like the idea of tying off so much of the running rigging to eyebolts on the deck around the mast. So, one of the changes I have decided on is to construct a belaying pin rail around the mast (see post #42). I tried having the rings 3D printed, but the result was not so good. I found some scrap plywood in the size I needed and carefully shaped it into the circular mast pin rails. After making 5 to get 3, I am happy with the result.
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I also added deadeyes to the upper shrouds. The plans didn't call for them, I think they are needed. Also, I added the lower shrouds to each of the masts before assembling the mast.
View attachment 325538

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Details of the three masts ready for installation of the ratlines on the upper shrouds.
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Good morning Jeff. Great stuff. I also prefer to do as much of the rigging of the ship. Well done on the belay pin rack around the mast. These are difficult.(well for myself anyway). Cheers Grant
 
Nice work.
I have just fitted the deck rings for the rigging lines but only did so in case I can't come up with a solution like yours. I remembered reading your post (#42) and seeing the picture of the collar around the mast. Making a collar to take 11 pins will be a challenge for me, I wondered if I could find an eyelet of the right size that I can modify when I come to do mine.
Back at post #42 you experimented with eye bolts. That didn't work on the actual mast? I ask because I'll be at the same point in a few weeks...
 
Nice work.
I have just fitted the deck rings for the rigging lines but only did so in case I can't come up with a solution like yours. I remembered reading your post (#42) and seeing the picture of the collar around the mast. Making a collar to take 11 pins will be a challenge for me, I wondered if I could find an eyelet of the right size that I can modify when I come to do mine.
Back at post #42 you experimented with eye bolts. That didn't work on the actual mast? I ask because I'll be at the same point in a few weeks...
There is no way to get 11 pins around the mast. The mast diameter is too small for that. I have come up with a way to get more pins around the foremast, but that's for a later post!
 
I am catching up on posting pictures of my build progress over the last couple of months.

It's time to do the upper set of ratlines before rigging the mast and mounting the masts on the ship. But wait! I remembered thinking that pictures I had seen of the ship showed rungs or battens instead of rope ratlines.
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Think of the time I could save if I didn't have to tie all of those clove hitches. After trying a number of different materials I had around the workbench (wood and wire), I decided on wood. I would not be able to make the rungs round with wood, but OK. I used deck planking (0.5mm) and cut off as thin of slivers as I could using a metal straight edge and #11 blade. I probably tossed 2/3 of the ones I cut, but I got better with time. I glued the strips to the shrouds and painted the to match the brown shrouds. I experimented with tying them on with thread, but the scale of the thread was too far off.
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Savings in time by not tying standard ratlines - 0. Extra time required using rungs - several hours. Hopefully it will be better on the lower shrouds, but they may be more difficult since I won't be able to get the shrouds parallel to the workbench surface when placing the rungs. For the most part I like them. I did improve as I when along, so I hope for a bit neater presentation on the lower shrouds which show much more.

Here's the foremast with the yards attached. Next up will be the sails.
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You are setting a very high standard for me to follow. I hope I can get at least part way up there as I go along. Not sure that my clumsy fingers could cut those tiny slithers, we'll see...
 
You are setting a very high standard for me to follow. I hope I can get at least part way up there as I go along. Not sure that my clumsy fingers could cut those tiny slithers, we'll see...
You might have more luck with wire, but I didn't have any of the right diameter that was also stiff enough to be straight after cutting.
 
Working on sails.

I sewed in a rope around the perimeter of the sails to clean up the edges of the sail and to add a bit of stiffening. I included a loop at the corners where appropriate for tying on lines later.
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I liberally applied a 50/50 water/fabric stiffener solution to the sails while forming them over a tube of selected based on the size of the sail. I allowed them to dry in place and when taken off the form the sails maintained a nice billowing look. Note: The final color is not so yellow is the first 2 pictures. The third picture is closer to reality.
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Top gallant sail attached. Also note the Topsail drying on its forming tube.
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I wasn't happy with the sails supplied by Occre for the Candelaria either, so bought some sailcloth to make new but in the end I got an acceptable result by sewing an extra vertical "seam" between the existing ones on the apples sails, thus making the cloth width appear more to scale. I also sewed on a bolt rope edge.

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When I come to do the sails for my Endurance I shall also be looking to change some things. Like you, I don't like the overlock edges without something to finish them off. I saw somewhere that using a wire as the boltrope can give the sail a billowing effect.
I will also add another vertical seam like the last build because the supplied sails are seamed at 20mm, or 1.4 metres at scale. I doubt they had canvas that wide back then, more likely 36 inches or less. I'm a long way off getting to the sails and have time to experiment and to see more of your results. Thanks for posting in detail, I am learning a lot by following your build.
 
Thanks for your comments. My sewing skills are fairly abysmal, so I not sure about adding additional seams to the sails. I have nothing to base this on, but I suspect 1.4 meter-wide strips would have been more available then than now. I have not seen using wire as the boltrope. An interesting idea.
 
Thanks for your comments. My sewing skills are fairly abysmal, so I not sure about adding additional seams to the sails. I have nothing to base this on, but I suspect 1.4 meter-wide strips would have been more available then than now. I have not seen using wire as the boltrope. An interesting idea.
I am going to amend my comment above on canvas width. Wide canvas is readily available. I know that one can get 10 ft wide seamless canvas photographic backgrounds. Of course, the weight of the canvas is likely too light for sails.
 
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Square sails have been attached to the yards. I have rigged most of the rigging for these sails.
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I also rigged the foremast gaff sail.
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I will tie the running rigging that goes to the rings in the instructions before mounting the mast to the boat.
 
I am going to amend my comment above on canvas width. Wide canvas is readily available. I know that one can get 10 ft wide seamless canvas photographic backgrounds. Of course, the weight of the canvas is likely too light for sails.
The standard bolt of linen canvas for Royal Navy sails was 24" wide x 37/38 yds and came in various weights depending on use. Sometimes heavier weight on the edges than in the centre.
I'm not sure of the weight used as it was designated by a number or letter. For example the cotton canvas I used for marquee making in the 1970's/80's was 36" wide Birkmyre "O" for roofs and "N" for walls which was roughly the equivalent of 15oz and 12oz per sq yd (before adding proofing) and came in nominal 100yd bolts.
All of which is largely academic as the Endurance was built in Norway and RN standards probably didn't apply. However the photo below does show quite narrow panels. Screenshot_20220905_125132.jpg
 
The standard bolt of linen canvas for Royal Navy sails was 24" wide x 37/38 yds and came in various weights depending on use. Sometimes heavier weight on the edges than in the centre.
I'm not sure of the weight used as it was designated by a number or letter. For example the cotton canvas I used for marquee making in the 1970's/80's was 36" wide Birkmyre "O" for roofs and "N" for walls which was roughly the equivalent of 15oz and 12oz per sq yd (before adding proofing) and came in nominal 100yd bolts.
All of which is largely academic as the Endurance was built in Norway and RN standards probably didn't apply. However the photo below does show quite narrow panels. View attachment 326838
Thanks for the information. Very useful to know. I will file it away for future use.
 
The deck cabin ("Ritz") has been added to the deck. It fit pretty well to the deck. One of the gangways to the had a bit of a twist which needed to be dealt with.

In front of the fore mast hole is my solution for attaching lines instead of following the eyebolt method in the kit. It might not be completely historically accurate, but it a functional way to get around the problem.

Next up will be setting the masts in place on the shipIMG_6838-Edit.jpgIMG_6842.jpgEOSR9729-Edit.jpg.

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The deck cabin ("Ritz") has been added to the deck. It fit pretty well to the deck. One of the gangways to the had a bit of a twist which needed to be dealt with.

In front of the fore mast hole is my solution for attaching lines instead of following the eyebolt method in the kit. It might not be completely historically accurate, but it a functional way to get around the problem.

Next up will be setting the masts in place on the shipView attachment 329087View attachment 329088View attachment 329086.

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Good morning Jeff. Stunning photos of a beautiful Endurance. Cheers Grant
 
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