Fair American - False Deck?

[Ret-Navy]

I decided as my second build I would try the Fair American kit. Upon opening the box, my first thought was I may have bitten off more than I can chew. Going to be a challenge. My plan is to read the instruction manual at least twice as well as review the plans a number of times before even dry fitting anything. I have also read a couple of books on planking.

Getting to the reason for the post. When checking the parts list, I noticed the absence of any false deck. Looking through the parts didn't show one as well. I am assuming this deck is laid down individually like planking.

Mike

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I assume you are building the kit from Model Shipways. Refer to the attached instructions. I reviewed the instructions, and it appears that the deck planks are to be glued to the top edges of the frames directly, and there is no false deck below them. That would seem reasonable because the deck plank material is 1/16" or 3/32", which are rather thick and resist bending. When gluing the planks in place, make sure they are also glued to each adjacent plank at the edges, and wipe off excess glue before it dries with a moist towel, trying to lift the glue off the wood by rolling the towel away from the deck as you wipe, and not smear the glue on the wood.

Note figure 15c which shows that you will be using two thicknesses of wood for deck planking, several 3/32" strips along the centerline, with 1/16" strips from there out to the sides of the vessel's deck. There is a step created by doing this, and take care when scraping the deck not to round it over. Instead of sanding the deck, a metal scraper is used to smooth the deck, and eliminate any minor offsets where the plank edges may not line up perfectly with each other. This leaves you a smooth deck surface that is more even than using sandpaper. It also removes any glue residue in the pores of the wood which will affect staining of the deck, should you choose to apply a stain.

 

[Ret-Navy]

I assume you are building the kit from Model Shipways. Refer to the attached instructions. I reviewed the instructions, and it appears that the deck planks are to be glued to the top edges of the frames directly, and there is no false deck below them. That would seem reasonable because the deck plank material is 1/16" or 3/32", which are rather thick and resist bending. When gluing the planks in place, make sure they are also glued to each adjacent plank at the edges, and wipe off excess glue before it dries with a moist towel, trying to lift the glue off the wood by rolling the towel away from the deck as you wipe, and not smear the glue on the wood.

Note figure 15c which shows that you will be using two thicknesses of wood for deck planking, several 3/32" strips along the centerline, with 1/16" strips from there out to the sides of the vessel's deck. There is a step created by doing this, and take care when scraping the deck not to round it over. Instead of sanding the deck, a metal scraper is used to smooth the deck, and eliminate any minor offsets where the plank edges may not line up perfectly with each other. This leaves you a smooth deck surface that is more even than using sandpaper. It also removes any glue residue in the pores of the wood which will affect staining of the deck, should you choose to apply a stain.

Thanks for your input. Yes, this is a Model Shipways kit. The only thing I have done so far with the kit is an inventory. I think this will be a big challenge, but looking forward to it. I want to make the pace of this project slow and thorough. Thanks again.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Thanks for your input. Yes, this is a Model Shipways kit. The only thing I have done so far with the kit is an inventory. I think this will be a big challenge, but looking forward to it. I want to make the pace of this project slow and thorough. Thanks again.

Taking your time and making each step the way you want it is the way to go. If you have any questions or need information on planking or some other difficult step, let the forum members know because we are here to help.

 

[PT-2]

Taking your time and making each step the way you want it is the way to go. If you have any questions or need information on planking or some other difficult step, let the forum members know because we are here to help.

As this is a Plank on Bulkhead (POB) build one thing to think about related to deck planking is that the plank ends ideally butt and are centered on bulkheads, not all of them will be if you are using the proper plank length, as well as at the forward outboard nibbing ends. The plank edge gluing is critical for support of those floating ends. You will have to decide upon how you are going to present the caulked deck planks' edges. One method that I favor is to rub a very soft pencil along the edge, blackening it. The carbon somewhat seals the edge making glue absorption less penetrating and therefore more of a floating edge which when you scrape the decking to fair it out may cause some planks to drop below the others.
I offer these points for consideration as you begin to read the instruction book and study your plans. Be patient, think ahead at all times, and work slowly. It is not a race but an engrossing hobby of the moment.
Best of luck as you proceed with your voyage. Rich (PT-2)

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

As this is a Plank on Bulkhead (POB) build one thing to think about related to deck planking is that the plank ends ideally butt and are centered on bulkheads, not all of them will be if you are using the proper plank length, as well as at the forward outboard nibbing ends. The plank edge gluing is critical for support of those floating ends. You will have to decide upon how you are going to present the caulked deck planks' edges. One method that I favor is to rub a very soft pencil along the edge, blackening it. The carbon somewhat seals the edge making glue absorption less penetrating and therefore more of a floating edge which when you scrape the decking to fair it out may cause some planks to drop below the others.
I offer these points for consideration as you begin to read the instruction book and study your plans. Be patient, think ahead at all times, and work slowly. It is not a race but an engrossing hobby of the moment.
Best of luck as you proceed with your voyage. Rich (PT-2)

What PT2 said... If you hurry, the results will look sloppy. Never be afraid to add details, and NEVER be afraid make mistakes, because they are always worse in your eye than others, and you forget how much you learn from them, which benefits your next ship build.

 

[Ret-Navy]

As this is a Plank on Bulkhead (POB) build one thing to think about related to deck planking is that the plank ends ideally butt and are centered on bulkheads, not all of them will be if you are using the proper plank length, as well as at the forward outboard nibbing ends. The plank edge gluing is critical for support of those floating ends. You will have to decide upon how you are going to present the caulked deck planks' edges. One method that I favor is to rub a very soft pencil along the edge, blackening it. The carbon somewhat seals the edge making glue absorption less penetrating and therefore more of a floating edge which when you scrape the decking to fair it out may cause some planks to drop below the others.
I offer these points for consideration as you begin to read the instruction book and study your plans. Be patient, think ahead at all times, and work slowly. It is not a race but an engrossing hobby of the moment.
Best of luck as you proceed with your voyage. Rich (PT-2)

Thanks, Rich. I really appreciate the advice I am getting from you guys.

 

[PT-2]

Thanks, Rich. I really appreciate the advice I am getting from you guys.

I see that you are a retired Navy serviceman. What was your duty there. I was also Navy back in 1963-66 as a Photographic Interpreter, E-5, (PT-2) with heavy attack reconnaissance squadrons out of NSA Sanford Florida and had three carrier deployments: Independence in the Caribbean, Saratoga for 11 months in the Med, and then with a three month turnaround on the Ranger in Tonkin Gulf, Yankee Station with operations over North Vietnam. Passed by a large reenlistment offer tax free in the combat zone to return to school and finish my architectural degree. Before then I did a lot of small one-design sail boat racing so for me ship models are a late in life recollection of the forces and sensations of those events both as a crew and helmsman of my own boats.
I hope that your build brings the essence of vessels at sea as you work on it. Rich PT-2)