First build questions...

FrankJ

FrankJ

Joined
Aug 4, 2020
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Hello all,

I am getting ready to start the OcCre Polaris..my first build and have a few questions...

What varnish should I use?

Can it be applied using an air brush?

I see I will need Contact Cement...I also read somewhere that it does not last. What is best to use?

What paints should be used...Enamel? Acrylic?

Thanks in advance...

Frank
 
Hi Frank,

So everything you asked happens to fall in the builders choice type of thing. Theres numerous products for each and most guys will find one they like and stick with it. Being the Polaris is your first ship I recommend trying trying different things/ways and use her not just to learn how to build a ship but also the supplies you like for yourself.

Varnish: I see many folks are using Tung Oil to get a great finish of the wood in a natural state. I also see guys using poly and minwax stains. Thats me so far but I will be trying Tung Oil on an upcoming build. My best advice : look around at furniture, find a finish you absolutely love then ask about its finish and try to replicate it. Any liquid can be thinned so yes you can airbrush all but the rub on type, however I see little reason to do so. Wood is pourus so the finish will seep in, unlike plastic.

Contact Cement: I would only use that for transferring paper frames to wood for precise cutting. It has it's uses and in translation sometimes contact cement is actually meant to be white glue. I myself use normal everyday Elmers wood glue. Many people love using the CA's or super glues, then others use Tite Bond ( unsure of the name, basically the same as pva but easier to fix goofs ).

Paints: Again, this is your choice. Any and all paints that can go on wood can go on your ship. Id say go with Acrylic simply because its water based to easy to clean your brushes and no fumes. If you are worried about brush strokes thin the paint just a little bit before painting. For a primer I prefer Kilz, yeah the same stuff you use for priming household stuff over stains and such.

Have fun with the Polaris, it's a very pretty ship :)
 
Hello Frank, Clair has already covered all basis and completely agree with him. We have a similar question today, where a person asked about the glue type. So here how I would approach this: The kit model will be built from wood\plywood where the wood is the main component so wood glue would be most practical to use. What brand to use is a really personal preference, based on experience and situation. Basically, any PVA based glue will do the job. Some of them dry quickly and hold strong. Others, the curing time is slower and will require more time completely dry. You will probably need to experiment to find your own brand\bland or even brands for your own taste and requirements. CA glues is not my day-to-day glue, it does, however, have special needs and use in my shipyard.

For anyone who wants to know what model Polaris is, take a look below.

www.occre.com

OcCre tu tienda de modelismo | Maquetas para montar

OcCre fabrica maquetas de madera en kit, para armar y montar. Modelismo naval, ferroviario, de tranvías. Te ayudamos durante el montaje. ¡Vive el modelismo!
www.occre.com www.occre.com
 
Clair G said:
Hi Frank,

So everything you asked happens to fall in the builders choice type of thing. Theres numerous products for each and most guys will find one they like and stick with it. Being the Polaris is your first ship I recommend trying trying different things/ways and use her not just to learn how to build a ship but also the supplies you like for yourself.

Varnish: I see many folks are using Tung Oil to get a great finish of the wood in a natural state. I also see guys using poly and minwax stains. Thats me so far but I will be trying Tung Oil on an upcoming build. My best advice : look around at furniture, find a finish you absolutely love then ask about its finish and try to replicate it. Any liquid can be thinned so yes you can airbrush all but the rub on type, however I see little reason to do so. Wood is pourus so the finish will seep in, unlike plastic.

Contact Cement: I would only use that for transferring paper frames to wood for precise cutting. It has it's uses and in translation sometimes contact cement is actually meant to be white glue. I myself use normal everyday Elmers wood glue. Many people love using the CA's or super glues, then others use Tite Bond ( unsure of the name, basically the same as pva but easier to fix goofs ).

Paints: Again, this is your choice. Any and all paints that can go on wood can go on your ship. Id say go with Acrylic simply because its water based to easy to clean your brushes and no fumes. If you are worried about brush strokes thin the paint just a little bit before painting. For a primer I prefer Kilz, yeah the same stuff you use for priming household stuff over stains and such.

Have fun with the Polaris, it's a very pretty ship :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice Clair...the videos OcCre provides for the Polaris show them using Contact Cement for the deck and the second layer of planks. I could see using Wood Glue in its place but am at a loss as to how to clamp the planks to the deck and the second layer of planks to the sides.
 
In all the years I have been building ship models I have never used contact cement. It's fast but does not allow you to move stuff around so you have to be dead on with your placement of parts or your going to have a mess. I really like Elmer's Carpenters wood glue, it seems to have the fastest drying time of all the wood glues I've used. A thin coat on the piece you are glueing, wait a few seconds for the glue to tack up a little, and put it in place. If the place is curved you may want to hold it in place ( such as on hull planking) with some plastic push-pins - my go to planking tool. But for deck planking no holding is necessary. Good luck with whatever method you choose, as stated above it really is modeler's choice. And as for paints - I always use water based acrylics and stains because of easy clean up and low odor, mostly due to the fact that my build area is in what used to be our guest room, not to mention the quick drying time compared to enamel or oil based paints.
 
Hi,
I am building the Occre HMS TERROR. I have only used contact cement on the second planking. I used LePage water based contact cement. It is oderless and does not contain solvents, so it is healthier to use.
I use quick dry wood glue on the first planking and Gorilla(blue cap) instant glue on the remainder.
I built the HMS VICTORY 1/98 scale entirely with the Gorilla instant glue and Gorilla epoxy and it worked out great.
Watch out when doing the second planking on the Occre kits. They show you the Extremely thin planks laid out side by side to apply the contact cement, I tried it and found out that the strips rip when pulling off the board they used to lay out the strips. I then changed the procedure and now apply the contact cement to each strip individually and hang them vertically with ample space between the strips. Good luck on your build. Have you considered lights in and on your model? If so email me as I have done this and they look great. The circuits are a bit tricky but as I said email me and I will help out.
Ted
 
I use a quick dry high tack white hobby glue as my base glue. This is typically what you find in hobby and craft stores rather than hardware stores. In my area the brand is Arlene’s Quick Dry found in Joann’s or HobbyLobby. I also use CA thin and CA gel. The CA glues are great for tacking on curved pieces. Start at one end...tack on with CA gel...then work back along the curve tacking down with the CA. The white hobby glue is great for planking. I can place the plank...move it into position...and because the glue is quick dry high tack I can hold the plank in position with my fingers for 15 seconds and it is tacked in place. I rarely need clamps. CA is my go to for small parts, moldings, and curved planking.
 
I use a water based matte or satin polyurethane brush on finish. In my area Minwax acrylic poly is my option. I also use hobby and craft store acrylic paints. I have tried all kinds including the so called specialty paints for modeling. I have found the common hobby acrylics found in hobby and craft stores to be excellent with the advantages of a large color selection, smooth coverage, and availability. I mostly use flat or matte sheen paints. I think that the only gloss sheen paint I have is a black. Also, hobby acrylic paints come in metallic colors which are convincing for copper, brass, gold metals. This is where I get the “antique white” for the white tone needed on ship hulls. I have not found the need to use contact cement (please do not use for planking) and I do not air brush (I have a hard enough time controlling a paint brush). Hope this helps...
 
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Hi Frank,
Just my opinion. Please do not use varnish. Ship modeling is a little different from making other types of wood shop projects. Varnish or shellac and other types of finishes will leave an unnatural look. If you think you must have something then I suggest like a polyurethane satin finish. It will slightly darken the wood and when it dries, the finish will have a natural satin look.
paints: acrylics only. You can dilute these w water to give a stain like effect.
Try India Ink to blacken wood like the Wales and such.
Hobby Lobby has a vast array of acrylics in nearly a hundred shades. Look for the Folk Art acrylics.
 
Personally I use Testor's DullCote to finish the model. Whether it's on raw wood or on the painted surface, this is for two reasons:
  1. I don't want any shine or even the slightest sheen to enhance, hide or draw your eyes away from any of the detail on the model.
  2. Most ships at sea would be dull and weathered hence giving the model an authentic look.
But that's just my preference. Always go with what you prefer and use test pieces before applying on model.
 
Teal2 said:
Hi,
I am building the Occre HMS TERROR. I have only used contact cement on the second planking. I used LePage water based contact cement. It is oderless and does not contain solvents, so it is healthier to use.
I use quick dry wood glue on the first planking and Gorilla(blue cap) instant glue on the remainder.
I built the HMS VICTORY 1/98 scale entirely with the Gorilla instant glue and Gorilla epoxy and it worked out great.
Watch out when doing the second planking on the Occre kits. They show you the Extremely thin planks laid out side by side to apply the contact cement, I tried it and found out that the strips rip when pulling off the board they used to lay out the strips. I then changed the procedure and now apply the contact cement to each strip individually and hang them vertically with ample space between the strips. Good luck on your build. Have you considered lights in and on your model? If so email me as I have done this and they look great. The circuits are a bit tricky but as I said email me and I will help out.
Ted
Click to expand...
Ted - I have the Occre Terror for my next build. I appreciate a description of the lighting circuits. I've never used illumination. Thanx jbeerman@me.com
 
Hi k,
I am sort of busy tonight but will send as much info as I can tomorrow.
I will also try to add some pictures. Never added pics before it could be a good challenge.
I hope you haven’t put the bulwarks on the keel yet as it will make the adding of lights a bit more tedious.
 
kaisersozay said:
Ted - I have the Occre Terror for my next build. I appreciate a description of the lighting circuits. I've never used illumination. Thanx jbeerman@me.com
Click to expand...
Hi K,
I will send more info on the flickering lights but need to know your knowledge level of electrical theory.
If you have no knowledge then I will give you a step by step method. If you are knowledgeable on electrical theory I will send the web sight for a supplier of the LEDs and resistors along with what I did to the model to accommodate the wiring, including the lanterns on deck which I have made myself and look pretty good.
Ted
 
Teal2 said:
Hi,
I am building the Occre HMS TERROR. I have only used contact cement on the second planking. I used LePage water based contact cement. It is oderless and does not contain solvents, so it is healthier to use.
I use quick dry wood glue on the first planking and Gorilla(blue cap) instant glue on the remainder.
I built the HMS VICTORY 1/98 scale entirely with the Gorilla instant glue and Gorilla epoxy and it worked out great.
Watch out when doing the second planking on the Occre kits. They show you the Extremely thin planks laid out side by side to apply the contact cement, I tried it and found out that the strips rip when pulling off the board they used to lay out the strips. I then changed the procedure and now apply the contact cement to each strip individually and hang them vertically with ample space between the strips. Good luck on your build. Have you considered lights in and on your model? If so email me as I have done this and they look great. The circuits are a bit tricky but as I said email me and I will help out.
Ted
Click to expand...
I would eventually like to add lights to a ship but with my first, I'm not sure if I want to attempt that one...lol
 
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