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Tutorial FreeCAD making a simple ship model

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Dec 15, 2024
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Plenty time on leading/using "FreeCAD" , I only use Opensource Programs, and results, excellent, very nice smooth transition from on bulkhead to another.
will be using simple model for a full scale 1780 French warship.....a framework has been design.

First simple-minded model is needed to start the CAD build. wish old drawing had more detail otherwise still fun and smiles when success is achieved,
Any hints to improve shipbuilding please do and thank you!!!!!!

SHIPWRECK DESIGN TEST.jpg
 
I to use Freecad, I used Solidworks before I retired and can't believe the power of Freecad ( yes, it's totally FREE) with loads of tutorials on YouTube.
I scratch build ( or try to) by putting images of plans I find on the web into Freecad where you can then calibrate the drawing to any scale you want. I then copy each station, print it off and stick it to the plywood. You can easily build an assembly up with all the frames and make sure the hull is fair before cutting any wood
Happy and Healthy New Year to all

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alert freecad.jpg
 
With reference to Freecad, what does the statement, "First simple-minded model is needed to start the CAD build." what would a simple-minded model be?
 
Hi Syn,
I think you would get a lot of helpful information if you get a set of the scantlings to go with the original plans. (What ship is this?) The reason I mention this is the shape of the frames you show. For example, the drawing you are using as a reference looks like a sixth rate or maybe a sloop or cutter. The moulded dimensions of a frame at midships follows for a 16 gun:
Floor timbers at the head 8"
First futtocks at the head 7.5"
Second futtocks at the head 6"
Toptimbers at the head 4"

Your drawing has the moulded dimension of each frame going from thick to thin to thick going up from the keel rather than getting thinner as the you go up the frame.
Hope this helps :)
Allan
 
Correct, I cheat because all the insides are hidden. I only use the outside profile to build the model, In drawing I just copy the outside profile and paste it inside about 5mm at the top, that's why it looks odd.
The boat is a cutter, a cross between the Alert and Sprightly.
I have run out of room for anymore models so I thought the cutter would be smaller, however I hadn't realised the bowsprit is nearly as long as the hull. I might build it in the harbour stowed position.
Cheers
Mick

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I just copy the outside profile and paste it inside about 5mm at the top, that's why it looks odd.

Hi Mike.
5mm seems quite heavy, and it will result in a hugely wide cap rail to cover the tops of the frames. For a cutter, depending on the scale of your model, if 1:32 the top of the top timbers would be 3.2mm, if 1:48 about 2mm, if 1:64, about 1.6mm, and if 1:96, 1mm.
Visually it is usually better to err on the small side versus the large side.
As you are doing this drawing a book of scantlings will make your job much easier. There were 16 HMS Alerts, three of which were cutters, 1753, 1777, and 1779 so not sure which scantlings would be appropriate for you. There were also several named Sprightly. If the 1778 Sprightly and 1777 or 1779 Alert either the Shipbuilder's Repository or perhaps David Steel's The Elements and Practices of Naval Architecture would be useful. Both can be found in Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships at Seawatch Books along with the Establishment scantlings.
Allan
 
Thanks Allen, I cut the tops of anyway after I put the outer planking on. I build them as a hobby so I go for what pleases me, although I do try to get as near as I think they looked like. I'll be doing the gun tackle next and have been thinking, would they have had the outhauls connected. My thinking is the recoil would throw the gun back in battle and the outhauls would only get in the way. They would of course have to be used for maintenance and practice etc. does anyone know the correct sequence of operation with all the gun tackles?
Cheers
Mick
 
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