Following planking the hull, four strikes done about thirty, it will take a moment... 
French war-ship Saint-Philippe 1693 - scale 1/72 - from Lemineur monograph
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Preparation and cut of a strike before gluing :
Eighth strike done about thirty :
One more curiosity about the monograph: the stern of the boat is slightly convex, although it is placed above the waterline :
Actualization of look after twelve strikes about sixty-two (20 % done... )
)
I arrived on sixteenth about sixty-two :
My traditional evening gallery, which take a early summer mood :
18th strike done, with first rear augmentation (which is invisible... ) :
) :
My 22nd strike done : 74% of this hull side, and 37% of underwater part of ship :
I've cut the excedent of strikes with the necessary stern planking merge adaptation :
Twenty-fourth strike done, the planking fore and rear rail is now well visible :
Hi Steef,
First, I pass the strike under the cold water tap, then, with the round handle of a wooden spoon, I curve it on a thermostatic electric plate, hot enough to turn the water into steam, but not enough to burn the wood. I repeat several times if necessary :
For thick pieces, like rails, I saw them in two half thickness, that avoid to broke, and I glue the two parts for reconstitute my curved piece
After bending the divided strike, the difference between out curve part and in part of the main rail of the St Philippe was around 5 mm...
To thin or adjust the different planks, I pass the edges with a Proxxon cutter by hand, I usually do it like this, and it’s quite simple to do
Best regards,
Christian
I knew a model-maker who used dental cutters and a turbine purchased in China. The flaws of the Proxxon are that the chuck is too big and has only three clamping jaws, the switch is incorrectly placed, and a trigger dimmer is missing
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Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here
and here together with the voice recorder - my Admiral is watching me ...... ;) I hope you like it Uwe. :)
shipsofscale.com
Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here
@donfarr https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33031487878.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.39362e0eTovQRR https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32991354197.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.39362e0eTovQRR plus...
shipsofscale.com
I use this one now, and must say works perfect. Light in the hand, accurate and strong. And most important, no heavy noise. I can still hear the mice on the ceiling running.
Only 2 kinds of chucks 2.35 and 3.175 in mine configuration with the extra's. 3.0 is also possible.
but that is okay when you use only cutters in the machine. Dremel is 3.175 standard and 2.35 is standard dental.
I have a similar machine, thought the handpiece is identical to yours. As per your recommendation, I ordered a set of spare collets to fit all possible burs. It does work great, I wish it could be a bit faster, but I have not had any issues with the current speed yet.I use this one now, and must say works perfect. Light in the hand, accurate and strong. And most important, no heavy noise. I can still hear the mice on the ceiling running.
Only 2 kinds of chucks 2.35 and 3.175 in mine configuration with the extra's. 3.0 is also possible.
but that is okay when you use only cutters in the machine. Dremel is 3.175 standard and 2.35 is standard dental.
The first planking side of ship is now near of entire realization :
Notice that the squarred yard will continue to be used, that is
an important detail, it defines vertical and horizontal reference
Notice that the squarred yard will continue to be used, that is
an important detail, it defines vertical and horizontal reference
Hello CRI-CRI, I believe the translator screw up again, not sure I understand the 'squared yard', and it's an important purpose. Can you elaborate, please?