garboard

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hi guys need help, once and for all NEED TO KNOW HOW MODELERS DO A GARBOARD PLANK, i use the old try and fit, try and fit and it never come out like it is supposed to, any HELP SUGESTION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Which part of the process are you having trouble with? I find it is generally most troublesome in gauging the taper and bend correctly.
 
YES ME TOO, ALSO THE WHOLE GARBOARD PLANK FROM STERN TO BOW, I HAVE NOT DONE A POB IN QUITE SOME TIM AND I AM DOING THE ARMED LONG BOAT THE GOOD ONE AND THE SHAPE HAS ME CONFUSED. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Ha. Which one is the good one? I’ve thought about doing the Model Expo one. For what it’s worth, every time Im shaping a garboard I usually make the next plank and the garboard as one and then cut them into two with a knife before bending. This usually gets me the right shapes without much hassle.
 
MINE IS THE M/S, i call the bad one the small one that nobody can build, with the CRAPY DECALS THAT LOOK LIKE JUNK THAT ONE, MS CAN NOT GIVE IT AWAY. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
hi guys need help, once and for all NEED TO KNOW HOW MODELERS DO A GARBOARD PLANK, i use the old try and fit, try and fit and it never come out like it is supposed to, any HELP SUGESTION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
Take a look at this topic about garboard planks, which is explaining a lot
 
Hi ALL, AN UPDATE ON THE GARBOARD PLANK, YEARS AGO MANY YEARS AGO THERE WAS A METHOD ABOUT USING MASKING TAPE UP AGAINST THE RABBIT TO CUT OUT THE SHAPE TRIED ON A SOLID HULL I WORKED GREATL, FINALLY FOUND THE ARTICLE IT IS in DONALD DRESSEL BOOK ON PLANKING TECHNIQUES, BUT USING MASKING TAPE ON A POB BUILD JUST DOES NOT WORK, SO I ORDERED SOME SURGICAL TAPE FROM 3M, WILL SE HOW THAT WORKS OUT, SO WILL KEEP EVERY ONE INFORMED OF PROGRESS, MY BUILD OF THE LONG BOAT IS PROGRESSING OK SO FAR WILL BE FINISHING UP ALL THE BULKHEADS ON THE FALSE KEEL TONIGHT, THEN WILL WAIT FOR THE SURGICAL TAPE TO COME IN. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Don,
Just for fun and entertainment:
You might want to look at this video to get an idea as to how to finalize the shape of the garboard plank at the front:

Or you can look at this one being installed at the stern of a large vessel:

G
 
ok will post this in my building log also maybe get a responce form either, showing the use of masking tape to get the correct shape of the garboard plank, also waiting to get the heavy duty surgical tape for the final, what do members think20200609_014846.jpg20200609_014939.jpg20200609_014939.jpg20200609_015121.jpg
 

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Watching this one with great interest... Seeing the videos above makes it so much easier to visualize how a garboard plank is fitted. Thanks guys.
 
OK JIMMY MY BAD ONCE I HERE CAD I SHRIVEL AND SHAKE, I INTEND TO TRANSFER THE TAPE TO 90 POUND BOND BOARD FOR FINAL JUST AS YOU SAID NEED TO MAKE SURE I AM DOING THIS CORRECTLY. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
Hello, Don

I must agree with Jimmystrators. Before using and cut from the actual material cut the garboard plank from cardstock template. You can easily correct template to the shape of your ship\boat. If you cut it wrong, you just get another cardstock template and cut to shape. Once you completely satisfied, you can transfer the cardboard to the timber itself.
Also, why do you waste a timber and mark you template in the middle of the board? You should start from the edge of the board, it will save the rest of timber for future use and make cut easy. :)
 
HI ALL, UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE SAYING, THE PIECE THAT I USED IS NOT THE THIS PIECE OF BEECH HAS TO BE THICKNESS SANDED I AM USI9NG CARD STOCK (90 POUND BRISTAL BOARD AS MY TEMPLETE, DOING ANOTHER SAMPLE USING STRONGER SURGICAL TAPE, I WILL USE BTHE BRISTAL BOARD GLUED TO MY FINISH PIECE ( WESTERN RED CEDER) HOW DOES THE SHAPE LOOK AM I IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
How about CAD? Card Aided Design? Either transfer the tape template to cardboard for final fettling, or start with card in the first place?

That is right.
Use either thick paper or cardstock (better) to make sure the template actually follows the curves in the shape of the hull: tape will not curve smoothly over the empty space between your frame (for POF) or bulkhead (for POB).

Describing how to do this in words is difficult: that is why I posted the video.
We will try anyways:
Start by cutting out a paper template of the full size plain rectangular plank (dimension of the actual plank).
Then:
Step 1 dry fit the paper/cardstock plank onto the model and follow the horizontal portion of the rabbet in the keel. Where the curve begins, at the foot of the stem, you will likely notice that the paper will twist (up) a bit and that is ok, The twist should begin slightly back from where the curve begins at the foot of the stem, at that point, just bring it / force it back down to draw the curved area.
If you just keep the template as is, you will end up with a wood plank that is not straight on the top edge: and it should be.

Step 2 draw the curve on the template to follow the rabbet at the foot of the stem.

Step 3 Remove the paper plank template from the model and cut the curve. When you put the cut template back onto the model, you will see that the plank is too short (because it naturally twists up) and that there is now a gap between the edge of the plank (curve area) and the rabbet towards the foot of the stem.

Step 4 place the plank in position onto the model: dry fit the template on the framing and into the keel rabbet again. You will likely notice that when you dry fit the plank without twisting or forcing it into the rabbet at the foot of the stem, the curved area will tend to move upward a bit, which will give you some space between the edge of the template at the curve and the rabbet. At this point keep / secure this template in place where ever it falls and tape a thinner paper extension to it and redraw the curve to follow the rabbet at the curve. As mentioned above in step 3, you will also end up with a plank that is too short.

Step 5 you now have a new template, a combination of the 1st template and the extension, cut the curve in the new / modified template: the top edge of the template should be straight.

Step 6 dry fit the new template and adjust as needed so that the plank runs naturally: not forcing the curved area up or down to fit into the rabbet. When happy go to step 7.

Step 7 transfer template to lumber.

Step 8 cut the plank with curved area, leaving a little extra material (the portion of the plank fitted into the rabbet) for fine tuning before final installation into the rabbet.

G
 
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OK ANOTHER LEARNING PROCESS, NOW SHOWING, THE PATTERN ON 90 POUND CARD STOCK ( BRISTAL BOARD), THE TAPE I USE IS HEAVY DUTY SURGICAL TAPE WILL USE THIS TAPE FOR SPILING THE THE PLANS (BULKHEAD DIMENSION) NOW LOCATING THE BATTENS FOR MARKING BULKHEADS FOR SPILING EVERY OTHER BULKHEAD IS MARKED EXCEPT THE 3 BOW BULKHEADS AND 3 STERN BULKHEADS WHERE EACH ONE IS MARKED, ALSO I NOTICED ON MY PATTERN THE WIDTH OF THE PLAND FOR 3 BULKHEADS BOW AND STERN ARE THE 1/4 INCH PLANKS LIKE CALLED FOR20200609_220418.jpg
 
OOPS GILLES YOU ARE CORRECT TAPE WILL NOT WORK AT ALL, I WILL SEE HOW THE HEAVY DUTY SURGICAL TAPE WORKS QUITE THICK NOW TO TRY GILLES WAY TO SEE HOW THEY COMPARE, I AM USING WESTERN RED CEDAR FOR THE LOWER PORTION OF PLANKING, AND PADACK FOR THE UPPER PLANKING, AN WILL PROBALLY GET FEED BACK FOR USING BEECH FOR THE SHEAR PLANK WANT IT TO STAND OUT, AS ALWAYS THANKS TO ALL HELP IS ALWAYS NEEDED. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
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