Hello Gilles, Forgive me if I missed it somewhere between the lines, do we have to darken the plank edges to simulate caulking (if any at all)? I can see from the above picture planks are represented as an individual, Is that a glue effect?
do we have to darken the plank edges to simulate caulking (if any at all)? I can see from the above picture planks are represented as an individual, Is that a glue effect?
Do you use a thickness caliper to probe around to verify your sanding progress and not over do it? In reloading high precision ammunition a device is used to check the casing wall thickness and those that are irregular but accepable are marked as to the side that the greater or lesser, as the reloader accepts, is located along. I envision doing the same thing to some extent in crafting the canoe. When I used to do stoneware ceramics in throwing a pot it was easy to judge the wall thickness between the fingers of each hand, inside and out.The planking strips being oversize is adding some work.
3/32 x 3/32 was originally chosen so that after sanding inside and out the planking is about 1/16" thick throughout.
The most sanding normally occurs on the outside of the canoe, which will again be the case using the lumber (cherry) received. But in order to end up with an appropriate thickness, at least at the sheer, a lot of material needs to be sanded off.
Here is an illustration:
View attachment 168576
The right side of the photo shows the sheer after fairing.
The left side shows the sheer and the thickness after sanding: the thickness of that strip ends up being about 1/16" (this strip will only be very lightly sanded on the inside.
Sanding the outside is much easier than the inside, so as a result the sheer will show a slight curve towards the inside.
G.
PS: I should mention that the dimension of the 3/32" strips was a choice made following test-builds using 1/16" (too thin) and 1/8" (to thick).
Too thin is a problem as one must be very careful during the sanding process. This size is perfect by offering optimal size to lay the strip down onto the mold keeping the edges square: furthermore, easy to bend and twist.
Too thick is more problematic as the strips located in the curve towards the bottom of the hull now need to be beveled to avoid a wider gap between the outside edges of strips: thus, requiring a lot more sanding to reduce thickness (at least at the sheer): furthermore, stiffer so bending and twisting more difficult.
G.
Hello,Do you use a thickness caliper to probe around to verify your sanding progress and not over do it? In reloading high precision ammunition a device is used to check the casing wall thickness and those that are irregular but accepable are marked as to the side that the greater or lesser, as the reloader accepts, is located along. I envision doing the same thing to some extent in crafting the canoe. When I used to do stoneware ceramics in throwing a pot it was easy to judge the wall thickness between the fingers of each hand, inside and out.
PT-2
HI GILLES, I WOULD LIKE TO SEE PICTURES IF YOU HAVE THEM OF HOW YOU DO YOUR SANDING AS I AM HAVING PROBLEMS ON A PROJECT OF SANDING TO THIN ALMOST GOING THROUGH THE PLANKING MATERIAL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
The initial material thickness sounds like experience gained along the way to make the right selection for the sanding down process as well as the "bendability" to lay it onto the frames. Thanks for your guidance. PT-2Hello,
I know the tool you are referring to and as an ex reloader myself, I did the same: especially for my "hot" loads.
No such tool is used for the purpose of building the model: as the end thickness of the strips is still going to be over sized compared to building a 1:1 scale canoe. The most important aspect of planking the model is to end up with a surface that shows nice and continuous curves: no "hills and valley" areas and no "ridges" in the joints between strips. It is best achieved with thicker lumber to begin with as we are not using "bead and cove" strips.
But thicker lumber causes its own issues, so the size is basically a compromise allowing the average modeler to achieve an attractive look in his / her model.
G
The video of salvaging a Pear tree caused me to go backinto our yardwork recycling dumpster before it was dumped to retrieve some limbs from a Sherofujin Cherry in our back yard that I had cut off last week. I'll make a poor man's try to cut those with my chain saw and larger table saw not haveing and Alaskan Sawmill attachment for the first cuts or a large belt saw.Good video showing scraping method.
Help!!!!! I have somehow moved the columns widths on my SoS screen and cannot get them back into the original and more narrow columns with a usual click and drag on the left or right edges. Suggestions will be life rings if not boats for me. Thanks PT-2 now a newbie SoS E-5Good video showing scraping method.
No worries, nothing you did wrong. This is the widths designated to a group builds. You cannot expand it.Help!!!!! I have somehow moved the columns widths on my SoS screen and cannot get them back into the original and more narrow columns with a usual click and drag on the left or right edges. Suggestions will be life rings if not boats for me. Thanks PT-2 now a newbie SoS E-5
Have to toe the mark to merit the extra chevron and not just flap my lips in the wind or dance myh fingers on the keyboard which I seem to do.Help!!!!! I have somehow moved the columns widths on my SoS screen and cannot get them back into the original and more narrow columns with a usual click and drag on the left or right edges. Suggestions will be life rings if not boats for me. Thanks PT-2 now a newbie SoS E-5
This canoe is like putting candy in front of a kid in the candy store before dinner. I used to do a lot of canoing but it was in a Grumman aluminum not beautiful wook with all of the upkeep. I have to bite the bullet and hold off until I complete my pilot boat and use the shekels for a must have tool. Too much temptation that my spending impulse is hard to control . . . but then, maybe sooner than I anticipate.PT-2