GLUE

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Hi all, Another question i have been having a real problem wit the glue that i am using, i have been using a TITEBOND TRANSLUCENT GLUE, it has a very quick set time and dries clear, but it sets up to quick and has a tendency to pull apart and is very hard to clean up because the set is so quick, any sugestions on the right type of PVA GLUE to use that dries clear and has a decent set time, i always use a dab of CA but i hate the stuff, as it is a mess to clean up THANKS TO JIM for introducing me to MERCURY ADHESIVES, it is much better then the ZAP-A-GAP, one other thing i had been using an accelerator and it discolored the wood so NOW NO ACCELERATOR ON FINISH PARTS. Don
 
all these PVA CA super glues have a fast grab time that is the nature of the beast. you just have to be fast and accurate.

what I have done is use Titebond II fast setting wood glue. It is a little runny so I pour some in a small container and leave it set out until some of the water evaporated and the glue gets thick. This improves the set time from the 30 minutes that it says on the bottle to 10 minutes or less depending on how thick you let it get.
 
Hi Don, I use LINECO WHITE NEUTRAL pH ADHESIVE
Neutral pH adhesive is used for artistic creations such as collages, adhering mats, objects within a frame or mounting paper to board. This PVA glue is pH neutral, has excellent lay-flat properties, good open time and is quick setting. It will not become brittle with age and is re-wettable with water.


 
Hello. Personally, I have not tried Midwest glue but wouldn't say it is just Elmer's (but who knows?). They are all a PVA based glue with different tacking behavior, cure\set time.
 
all these PVA CA super glues have a fast grab time that is the nature of the beast. you just have to be fast and accurate.

what I have done is use Titebond II fast setting wood glue. It is a little runny so I pour some in a small container and leave it set out until some of the water evaporated and the glue gets thick. This improves the set time from the 30 minutes that it says on the bottle to 10 minutes or less depending on how thick you let it get.
Long, long time woodworker here.
1) rehearse your glue assembly procedure! Lol
2) You may see better results with using a roller and applying a very light film of TB-II to both parts to be bonded, let set for 5 minutes, then clamp together. (Those cheapie 50 to a pack acid brushes also work well here too...just make sure they don’t leave any bristles behind). TB-II or Elmer’s Wood or any good aliphatic resin glue will bond a sanded smooth tight fitting wood surface pretty quickly (indeed almost instantly). For small parts, clamping is necessary. Well, for large parts clamping is necessary too, especially for pulling together and/or aligning the glue joint.
Clamp pressure till slight squeeze out, then immediately wipe excess with a damp finger or cloth. Especially on exposed to be finished surfaces.
For clear joints, I prefer Weldbond Universal. (Weldbond is also a decent gap filler)
For joints where I need a little working time, and structural strength is not critical, I use 2 part epoxies of varying cure times.
 
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Making Sokui


Sokui (続飯) is a simple starch-based wood glue that is traditionally used for joining wood to wood or paper to wood. Its uses span from tsuka making to sliding panel shoji and it particularly shines in joinery where it serves as a lubricant when inserting tenons as well as the adhesive to keep them in place. One of its advantages is that, unlike most synthetic wood glues, it is reversible by steaming or splitting when repairs are needed.
Some of the reasons rice glue was specifically chosen for making tsuka is that it is non-acidic, does not degrade either the steel or the wood over time, and does not retain moisture. Another is that, while quite strong, it is closer in strength to the wood itself. This allows a scabbard or handle to be split open for major cleaning or repair with minimal damage to the wood.
Sokui Ingredients
This all natural glue contains nothing but delicious Japanese rice and a little bit of extra water. The saying is that the most delicious rice makes the best glue. Some also say that yesterday’s rice makes a better glue than today’s. I have found that most any steamed white Japanese short-grain rice works well. Whole grain (brown) rice tends to have pieces of husk that can interfere with creating a tight, seamless joint. Rice that has been mixed with vinegar in preparation for making sushi should be avoided due to the acidity.
How to Make Sokui
A bite or two of cooked rice is placed on a board and worked with a bamboo or wooden wedge to break all the grains into pulp. As the rice is squeezed under the wedge it becomes like sticky dough. Once there are no pieces or lumps left, a few drops of water are worked in to bring the glue to the desired consistency. It is important to do all of the mashing before adding any extra water or the lumps will be very hard to remove. When adding water, do it only a drop or two at a time to prevent over dilution, if things go wrong it is often easier to start over than to rescue a watery batch.
The main consideration when making sokui is to take enough time when mashing. Once everything seems fully smooth and uniform, continue mashing all parts of the batch to ensure nothing is left intact and everything in kneaded thoroughly. The quality of the joint will be worth the extra time and care.
Evaluating Sokui
It should not be runny but should be thin enough to spread evenly on the parts to be joined. Too much water will weaken the joint and increase the drying time, too little makes it hard to spread thinly. Different woods and different climates will affect the amount of water needed, making some test pieces and practicing whenever the opportunity (or rice) avails will help with the feel of the process.

 
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