Hi Snowy,
super glue is fine, but you need to scratch up the area to be glued on the copper plates with sandpaper to enable adhesion.
You can also use a contact cement. Thats more forgiving.
cheers buddy.
super glue is fine, but you need to scratch up the area to be glued on the copper plates with sandpaper to enable adhesion.
You can also use a contact cement. Thats more forgiving.
cheers buddy.
I have also good experience with a double sided gluing tape - I use a very very thin one (I guess it is from Tamiya) which helps to keep the plate on the place, an in addition some super glue with longer curing time
I used slow ZAP thick CA-a spot applied by metal dental pick in the centre of of the plate. Ordinary superglue is too fast -this gel allows you to slide plate into place. It can be detached fairly easily without too much damage to the wood if there is need to redo (ha! ha!) I plated the Diane and Agamemnon which is enough experience for a lifetime. The first I allowed to age naturally after some "roughing up" with a copper brush. The second with urine (mine) - after 2 years they look the same. (In truth I usually prefer seeing the natural wood). Good luck.(ps- used copper self adhesive tape on Charles Morgan-cut to size and margin overlap-looks good BUT colour doesn't fade and I think appropriate for smaller scale)
I don't seem to get on with CA, so have tried an alternative which is Super'phaltic glue, it is ultra thin, odourless, works on pretty much most materials and cures in a few minutes or so and does not mark the copper plates. it really does firmly stick the copper plates to the wooden hull. You can speed up curing with the aid of a heat iron. My Super'phaltic came from www.deluxeaterials.com and you can purchase it from most model stores.
My experience is using CA gel for this type of application. The gel is very thick...dries slow enough to give time to place the copper...and you would only need one or very small drops (or globs as it is a true gel consistency). An easier approach is to get some copper tape with the adhesive back (typically used in stain glass hobby)...cut lengths to scale...use a pounce wheel on the back side edges to simulate rivets...then peel and stick.
I recently started using accelerant with CA Glue for those jobs that are hard to keep together while straight CA sets up. I’ve had some good results.
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i also use ZAP with no problems