Grand Banks Dory Kit and supplied tools/glues

[Araczek]

I am stocking up on tools and a couple glues but I see differences in tools/glues the kit supplies ("everything you need to complete the Grand Banks Dory") and
what the instructions depict. I understand the writer has creative license here but I am trying to figure out what I need from the get-go so I can progress smoothly.
So for those that have done this please point me to other information that could help if you don't mind?

TIA.

 

[Roger Pellett]

The best advice is to buy tools when you need them. When you encounter a problem, figure out a solution then buy the tool needed. Ship modeling is an art, and as no two modelers have the same abilities, each will reach for a different tool to get the same thing done. My shop has been equipped one tool by a time over a period of over 60 years.

You do, however need some basic tools to get started:
A razor saw: Zona is the standard.
Xacto knife with plenty of #11 blades
A small bench vise
12” steel rule graduated in sixteenths
Pencil (s) and a way to keep them sharp.
Small engineers square
Clamps- see recent thread on this topic here on SOS
Small pair of needle nose pliers

Note: I have not seen the instructions, but the kit developer uses scalpels instead of an Xacto knife on other models that he has built. Scalpels frighten me because they are so sharp. You may have the manual dexterity to use them with confidence. The Xacto knife is still handy. Also, the tools above are not expensive so buy quality. They can last a lifetime.

Glue. For wooden ship models only one type of glue is required; PVA. This is the yellow stuff sold by the name Titebond or Elmers. Many modelers swear by (and sometimes at) CA glue. I personally don’t use the stuff. Its fumes are nasty. As you get into more advanced models there are better choices for difficult gluing situations.

The guy who developed this series of kits is a master modeler. I would pay attention to the tools used by him in the instructions and pass on the “all that you need” tool kit.

Roger

 

[Jim Nunn]

The best advice is to buy tools when you need them. When you encounter a problem, figure out a solution then buy the tool needed. Ship modeling is an art, and as no two modelers have the same abilities, each will reach for a different tool to get the same thing done. My shop has been equipped one tool by a time over a period of over 60 years.

You do, however need some basic tools to get started:
A razor saw: Zona is the standard.
Xacto knife with plenty of #11 blades
A small bench vise
12” steel rule graduated in sixteenths
Pencil (s) and a way to keep them sharp.
Small engineers square
Clamps- see recent thread on this topic here on SOS
Small pair of needle nose pliers

Note: I have not seen the instructions, but the kit developer uses scalpels instead of an Xacto knife on other models that he has built. Scalpels frighten me because they are so sharp. You may have the manual dexterity to use them with confidence. The Xacto knife is still handy. Also, the tools above are not expensive so buy quality. They can last a lifetime.

Glue. For wooden ship models only one type of glue is required; PVA. This is the yellow stuff sold by the name Titebond or Elmers. Many modelers swear by (and sometimes at) CA glue. I personally don’t use the stuff. Its fumes are nasty. As you get into more advanced models there are better choices for difficult gluing situations.

The guy who developed this series of kits is a master modeler. I would pay attention to the tools used by him in the instructions and pass on the “all that you need” tool kit.

Roger

I have been using scalpel blades for a few couple of decades, yes they are sharper but a sharp tool is a lot easer to use than a dull tool and safer. You will find #11 scalpel blades on ebay. 100 blades topically under $10 and they will fit most exacto type handels.
As for glue PVA glues have a big advantage over CA glue and that is with a little heat applied you can unglue a mistake. With PVA glues apply a very small amount of glue to both areas you are glueing and the glue will set up quickly.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

When thinking of blades, a #11 scalpel is same shape as #11 Exacto, the only difference is how they mount to their handles.

A few other items you may want, small paint brush collection, get good ones, as cheap one leave hairs behind in paint.

A good set of magnifier glasses, or lamp with magnifier built in. Tiny things get hard to see in dark or distance.

Also I have learned to recycle a few things from the house, like empty pill bottles, good for storing water to thin paints, and you can toss when finally done with them.

 

[Rob444]

Bright lighting is a must. I would peruse the forms here for helpful information. You Tube is another site to search.

Beginners Corner - How to Get Started

Beginners Corner - How to Get Started

shipsofscale.com

Rob

 

[Roger Pellett]

Develop the habit of not laying small parts on your workbench. It’s too easy to sweep them off with a tool or other part that you are reaching for. Once on the floor they are difficult and sometimes impossible to find. I keep an empty tuna fish can on my bench and parts go into this when not being worked on. Tuna fish cans are low and wide enough that they are not easily knocked over.

Small finished parts are stored in pill bottles with locking lids until needed. Pill bottles are too easily knocked over to make good temporary workbench storage containers. When the parts are needed, the pill bottles are emptied into the tuna fish can.

I personally do not work under magnification. I have a pair of prescription “shop glasses;” bifocals with shatterproof plastic lenses and sturdy frames. I like the increased range of vision that glasses vs magnification gives me.

Roger

 

[Grandpa]

I am stocking up on tools and a couple glues but I see differences in tools/glues the kit supplies ("everything you need to complete the Grand Banks Dory") and
what the instructions depict. I understand the writer has creative license here but I am trying to figure out what I need from the get-go so I can progress smoothly.
So for those that have done this please point me to other information that could help if you don't mind?

TIA.

The kit comes to you Laser Cut, though they still require careful cutting at connection points. Be very careful as the parts are very fragile & break easily. I had several break when removing from the sheets.