Has anyone thinned wood glue (water) and used it like thin CA to seep into wood?

R

RichardT

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One of the thinks I like about thin CA is the ability to attach the parts then let the CA seep into the touchpoints. I was wondering if anyone had tried this approach by thinning Wood Glue (PVA)?

Also, I am sure it is in the forums somewhere, but what do you use to remove CA and remove wood glue?

Thanks
Richard
 
Try acetone (fingernail polish remover) for removing CA. Yes, you can thin wood glue and let it run but you need to experiment to get your own best results. Regarding removing wood glue that has already cured... multiple opinions on this forum.. for myself, I only use Weldbond when building wooden models. This brand of wood glue can be removed using isopropyl alcohol.

Hope this helps.... Im sure others with chime in as well.
 
White wood glues (PVA) are mostly water based. They can be removed while wet/damp with a cloth/rag dampened with water. After drying, things become more problematic. Some of them are "waterproof" and some others are "water resistant", while a few remain water 'soluble' even after drying. I don't know of one single product that will remove all types. It's best to make your choice of glue while considering the particular traits. If dry, some scraping will probably be necessary along with water and maybe vinegar or alcohol.

CA glues have a 'remover' specifically for them. You can use acetone. Also a strong vinegar solution will work. You will most likely have to do some scraping.

It's SO much easier to remove these glues while still wet or damp. After removal, some staining of wood can occur.
 
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Hobbit99 said:
I don't know of one single product that will remove all types.
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Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will dissolve and remove "cured" Weldbond every time. This is the only PVA glue I use on my wood models for this one reason. It is something Bob Hunt taught his students and has stayed with me ever since.
 
polydoc, i'll give it a try but not sure about the odor.
Mike, So far, alcohol has worked best for me but i'm not sure about the effect of alcohol on wood. Also, why Weldbond?
Richard
 
RichardT said:
Mike, So far, alcohol has worked best for me but i'm not sure about the effect of alcohol on wood. Also, why Weldbond?
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Alcohol really has no effect on wood since it evaporates so quickly. Some might say it could dry out the wood but I doubt that really causes any problems.

Why Weldbond? This PVA is specifically formulated to dissolve with Alcohol after it has cured. Other brands might also, but I don't know. I started with Weldbond, I know it works, so I have stayed with it for years and years. I really have no other reason than to say experience and builder's choice I guess.
 
mrshanks said:
Alcohol really has no effect on wood since it evaporates so quickly. Some might say it could dry out the wood but I doubt that really causes any problems.

Why Weldbond? This PVA is specifically formulated to dissolve with Alcohol after it has cured. Other brands might also, but I don't know. I started with Weldbond, I know it works, so I have stayed with it for years and years. I really have no other reason than to say experience and builder's choice I guess.
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Mike, I've never used Weldbond. What color does it dry.? Some of the Titebond carpenter's glues dry yellowish. I'm considering switching back to an "old-school" white PVA that dries "clear".
 
Hobbit99 said:
What color does it dry.?
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Cloudy clear... like Elmer's white glue. Not at all like Titebond. Just my opinion, I would never use Titebond carpenters glue on a model ship. It is far stronger than needed and nearly impossible to remove. Carpenters glue is for building 1:1 scale full-sized wooden structures..... we really dont need that strength in a scale model.

Just my 2 cents...
 
mrshanks said:
Cloudy clear... like Elmer's white glue. Not at all like Titebond. Just my opinion, I would never use Titebond carpenters glue on a model ship. It is far stronger than needed and nearly impossible to remove. Carpenters glue is for building 1:1 scale full-sized wooden structures..... we really dont need that strength in a scale model.

Just my 2 cents...
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Sounds like a good plan.
I haven't seen any Weldbond around here. I'll look some more....maybe order from Amazon. I've been using Titebond because I've always had it on hand. I'm not wedded to it. I'll gladly switch to something else.
Thanks...
 
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