• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

HELP! HOW DO I MOVE MY MODELS?

D

DFGINMIA

Joined
Jun 21, 2024
Messages
6
Points
8

I have about forty ship models I need to move across country. I'm planning on renting a truck just for them, but the problem is how do I move them without damaging them? I've done this before, so I have some experience, but I've always had problems. For example, I can't use tape on plexiglass cases, as it never comes off. I have had problems with Styrofoam peanuts because they scratch the paint.

Half of them, the largest ones (up to 40") are in plexiglass cases with wood bases. The models are not glued to the base and I'd rather not do that. I thought about turning the plexiglass over and filling the top with peanuts and sitting the models inside that (using the base as the "top"). I've done this before, but the Styrofoam peanuts scratch the model paint. Any suggestions for an alternative?

The other half of the models are "loose" in that they don't have individual cases. They average about 16" in length. Any ideas for how I might pack them? Again, I'll need to find some soft material to pack them with.

I'm moving from AZ to NC in October. Do I need to worry about heat inside the truck?

Your ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Final 22.jpg

Normandie Completed 1.jpg

Normandie Completed 3.jpg

Ariadne Final 2.jpeg
 
Your best option is to forget about moving and stay put. ROTF

Seriously, though, with forty models of that quality, I would contact Mike Wall at https://www.shipmodel.com/. He is now semi-retired, according to his website, but remains available by phone or email apparently. He ran the American Ship Model Gallery, a top-end "brick and mortar" art gallery specializing in models and paintings of ships. He will certainly know which moving companies and shippers are experienced in handling ship models and can be trusted with your fine collection. Ship models and other delicate fine art pieces are handled by specialty shippers and movers, not your local "U-Haul" outfit! I would never consign a model for shipment to anyone other than a known expert in the field and I would never let a valuable model out of my hands for shipment unless it was insured for full replacement value based on an appraisal accepted by your insurance carrier. I learned these things from my experience repairing and restoring ship models.

Do not use "packing peanuts" or "noodles" ever! Objects "floating" in a box of packing peanuts which are at all heavier than the peanuts themselves, when transported by any manner that creates vibration (e.g. by highway vehicle,) will "sink" in the packing peanuts and come to rest on the bottom of the box where they will essentially fetch up, breaking spars and detail pieces. This phenomenon completely smashed the entire top hamper and bowsprit of a large three-masted schooner I'm currently repairing when some Amex employee with a room-temperature IQ just put it in a big cardboard box and then filled the box with packing peanuts. You realize, of course, that in this post-Pandemic age, "This side up." and "Fragile - Handle with care." mean nothing to the current crop of loading dock gorillas. The box was turned upside down and the cross-country trip ended with all three topmasts and the bowsprit snapped off and the pieces, together with the attached sails, and standing and running rigging rolled into a tangled mess in the bottom of the box. The packing peanuts, of course, were just fine.

Normally the practice is to secure all models to their baseboards and/or cradles, if loose, with soft fabric "straps" tied around the hull and base, so that the model will not move. The case is then secured around the model in a similar fashion. The cased model is then placed in a custom-built wooden packing crate which often has Styrofoam blocking between the case glass and the crate's plywood sides. The crates are sometimes shipped in specialized trucks having softer cushioned suspensions than usual and may even be afforded special handling, even going so far as to be "escorted" by designated "handlers," in some instances. The insurance companies are well aware of the risks and may impose such shipping requirements as a condition of insuring the cargo.

 
Thank you so much! I will definitely contact Mike. For the reasons you cited, I am moving the models myself. I've done it before (pre-Pandemic) but in the past few years I've built so many more models. I didn't think about the settling problem with peanuts -- great insight. I could put a thin layer of small bubble wrap underneath each model, but I still don't like peanuts, anyway. I need to find some very soft support on the sides of each model. The tops will be unsupported.

Aside from packing each model, I plan to load some of the bookshelves on which they are displayed into the truck, lash them down, and put the models on the shelves, tightly packed so each case won't move. That will provide additional insulation from the truck vibration, bumps, etc.

And yes, THIS IS MY LAST MOVE. The next time these models are moved it will be to the homes of the new owners!

Dave
 
If you're models are primarily of steamships, that makes it a bit easier. There's less to break and they are more compact in shape. Still, I would opt for tying them down firmly as I described rather than trying to "pack" them with any sort of material that is in contact with the model itself. More damage can be done to fine detail parts by contact with the packing material than anything else. The professionals first secure the model inside its case, then they secure the case inside a custom packing crate. You may have less to worry about if your cases are made of plexiglass, and if you are driving them yourself and, importantly, loading and unloading them yourself, you may get away without packing crates. Lots of mover's "blankets" may suffice. If glass, though, A plywood packing crate is required to prevent breakage for long-haul commercial trips. Since you've moved them before without a problem, it seems like it's only a matter of how much more work, rather than any change in procedure.
 
Bob Cleek said:
Ship models and other delicate fine art pieces are handled by specialty shippers and movers, not your local "U-Haul" outfit! I would never consign a model for shipment to anyone other than a known expert in the field and I would never let a valuable model out of my hands for shipment unless it was insured for full replacement value based on an appraisal accepted by your insurance carrier.
Click to expand...
I second and third this statement. I have had a number of models shipped across the US as well as several from the US to Switzerland, Finland and Italy without problems. These were moved by professional shippers with a lot of experience shipping antiques and other high value pieces.
Allan
 
Sounds like a DITY move. I’d do all the boxing, handling and driving myself. For the ships permanently fixed to a base, just build a crate around them. For those not fixed to a base, a piece of open cell foam cut to the dimensions of the crate with a cutout for the hull should suffice. I was able to buy a cheap futon in Japan to harvest all the foam I wanted to move a collection back to the US, but you might be able to source some from a place that does upholstery.
 
Before renting a truck, if possible I would try to check out its ride. Some of these U-Haul type trucks ride like they have no springs.

IMHO the major problem is to immobilize the model within its container. If the model is immobilized I don’t think that internal packing materials should NR needed.

Roger
 
I DIY crated 3 sailing ships from Hawaii to California, to Scotland, to Bahrain to California. No need to pay big buck for someone else to do it!!!

1. Build a box. (wood is best, you might be able to make cardboard work, depending on size).
2. Drill some 1/4" holes in the bottom board, that follow the top rails (or some unobstructed solid point).
2. Set the model on the bottom board.
4. Run yarn through the holes, over the top rail (or solid spot on the deck).
5. Run the yarn around the ship 3-4 times and tie it tight.

That secures the model to the bottom of the box.

Next, place the top on the box and nail/screw it all together.

Good luch!

I second discussion above about no packing peanuts or anything else in the crate.
 
Rubber contact cement will work, but it's nasty stuff for use on large areas and it will discolor over time, bleeding through the paper. Scotch repositionable spray mount is a lot easier to use. ("Scotch 77" spray mounting adhesive is permanent.) The repositionable adhesive makes positioning the paper a lot easier and removing the plans paper a lot easier when your done and want to use the board for another model. With contact cement you only get one chance and it's stuck for good. If you're making the customary building board with two tee-slot tracks, you only have to make one if you can use it over and over again.

When the paper is secured to the board, you may want to coat it with clear shellac. During the building process, the plan can take a beating over time. The shellac waterproofs the paper. Shellac is alcohol-based, so it should not cause the paper to move as water will. Shellac will also stabilize the paper from movement due to changes in humidity.

1753157508558.png

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top