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Help with parcelling the upper shroud lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter RegW
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I'm working on a 1/48 scale model and approaching the standing rigging phase. If I choose to proceed past worming the shrouds and decide to parcel ,before serving, can anyone suggest an appropriate parcelling material? I was thinking of trying some narrowly trimmed masking tape, but I'm uncertain how it will "bend" around the mast without "wrinkling" under the serving. Suggestions or opinions welcome!
 
I agree with YT. At our scales it seems like it would be a waste of effort as it will be covered with the serving. You will be in great company if you forget the parceling but if you really want to go all out, try silk span as the thinnest type will work well. Just wet it with matte medium then wrap it and trim as needed. Using tape would be like using cloth for unfurled model sails on scales of 1:48 and smaller which are too thick, thus out of scale and totally unrealistic looking.
Allan
 
Maybe you check the way Johann alias @archjofo solved this

 
Thank you all for the great suggestions. Thanks for the link Uwe. Johann's work is truly impressive and gives me inspiration. I may have to take up metal casting for hooks and fittings. I checked out Pepetools, but that would be a totally different hobby with high start-up costs. I will plan to worm (where necessary) and serve only. Parcelling appears unnecessary after looking at Johann's model.
 
Like so many things in modeling, it depends. One approach to modeling ships is to recreate, as much as feasible, the techniques of full-size ship building and rigging. In this case, the larger the scale, the more is feasible. The process of building, including learning about actual full-size techniques, is paramount. Another approach is to build a model that looks authentic and portrays the spirit of the vessel no matter the scale. In this case, the process is unimportant and the guiding principle is appearance. Of course there are other approaches and each builder gets to decide their path. It's all fun!
 
Going back to your original question I would try 3 different approaches. I) Tamyia masking tape when comes in narrow rolls and very flexible 2) narrow pin striping tape with the same properties. 3) electricians tape which also stretches and would not "wrinkle".
 
Don't worry about it but if you must... try strips of toilet paper and wet out with small brush watered down Elmer's white glue then paint the shrouds black, (a dull black,)
 
Maybe you check the way Johann alias @archjofo solved this

I kind of wish I hadn't seen that thread. It makes my builds look like discards. It is hard to believe that his rigging and parts are not built full size in a olden ship yard or manufacturing facility, then somehow reduced to scale size like in "Honey I Shrunk the Kids!", rather than built for a model! Truly amazing!
 
Hoy mates, Well... as long as we are on this tack, may I hoist this question? What color should the shrouds, lanyards and ratlines be? I noticed European modelers prefer no paint, natural color rigging.... Americans and some others prefer painted hulls with black shrouds and black lanyards and black ratlines. Who is correct? Dark brown to a blackish tar applied from Pine tar out of Stockholm? Greased deadeys, lanyards never being adjusted ones bent on would definitely be tarred. A question that has been asked many times. I prefer painting, that way (to me) it is proper and it hides glue reflections and other small flaws. Sorry mates I'm just thinking out loud.
 
Hoy mates, Well... as long as we are on this tack, may I hoist this question? What color should the shrouds, lanyards and ratlines be? I noticed European modelers prefer no paint, natural color rigging.... Americans and some others prefer painted hulls with black shrouds and black lanyards and black ratlines. Who is correct? Dark brown to a blackish tar applied from Pine tar out of Stockholm? Greased deadeys, lanyards never being adjusted ones bent on would definitely be tarred. A question that has been asked many times. I prefer painting, that way (to me) it is proper and it hides glue reflections and other small flaws. Sorry mates I'm just thinking out loud.
This is a never ending discussion and we had also some of them in our forum made - at the end it is often the personal taste of the modeler

 
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