help with some blocks

The bocks under the tops are best attached to wire eyes inserted Into holes drilled beneath the top. The blocks can then be stropped with wire ending in a hook and hook into the eyes. If you haven’t put the top on yet now is the time to attach the eyes. Alternately, strop the blocks to the eyes with line before putting the eyes into the top. Hope this gives you some ideas.
 
thank you everyone for the help

i have a few more questions

1st on the diagram i showed, the 4 blocks underneath the platform, i've checked the instruction 5 times already, they are not used at all, would this be natural, or am i missing something?

2nd i'm planning to seize the shroud pairs, what else should be seized?
 
You can see from my Trinidad that the blocks were seizing was used. I think I have some photos showing how the seizing was done, but maybe these images might help.

foremastshrouds38.jpg

foremastshrouds39.jpg

foremastshrouds44.jpg

yardsling18.jpg
 
I don't know what you are building, but if it is late 18th century and you are a rigging novice I highly recommend the book by Petersson, "Rigging Period Ship Models." Here are two drawings from the book. It shows brace blocks under the fore top for the fore topgallant braces and the sprit sail braces. Blocks are not needed under the main top. If I understand your shroud question, you should be seizing loops in the ends of the shroud pair for the deadeyes and the center of the shroud pair to make a loop that goes around the headt'gal braces.jpgsprit sailbraces.jpg.
 
@Donnie I've been watching your pics carefully, I know blocks are seized, I'm asking about lines, what should be seized

And if that block has no function
 
My apologies. The question was how the blocks are tied to the structure. I have to see if I find any details on this one.
 
let me try again. If I remember this is how I did mine. I drill small hole in trestle tree or top. I used a small metal or brass pin about 1/32 x 1/4 to use as a stop. I passed the line up through the tree and around the pin and back down. Then it was at that point that I seized the block. Or you can have the block and line already made and pass the loop end up through the hole and slip the pin in to hold it. Very quick and efficient.
The CAD is very rough and as I had really not much time to make it any better.

BLOCK-RIGGING.jpg
 
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