HMS Ajax 38 gun frigate. Euromodel [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hello Everyone. Thanks for your interest. I have attended to the placing of the canons, first having made one up. The carriages provided weren’t up to much, as you can see they were straight sided rather than tapered towards the front and they were oversize. To get them more correct I cut them down the middle, chamfered them then glued them back together and sanded the front and rear level. I’m not going to spend time accurately detailing them as only the rear part will be seen. You’ll notice that the one shown in the picture has a strip glued to the wheels, this is to compensate for the height where no deck planks were laid. When the upper deck is in place I won’t have access to most of the canons so for these I’ve made up cradles and will place the barrels on them through the ports.

I made up and fitted one of the capstans and as you can see a set of stairs. I made up from the plan and fitted all the beams which support the upper deck then test fitted the deck and masts, adjusting where needed, I’ll fit these much later after I get some of the detailing done. I have shown a picture from above of the balsa block that I used to shaped up the stern.


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I'm enjoying this log and learning more each post still amazed at how quickly this build is going.
 
I'm enjoying this log and learning more each post still amazed at how quickly this build is going.
Ken, you are doing well and deservedly attracting a number of compliments. In your latest post you have differentiated between those 16 cannons that will never be seen and using supporting blocks and the 10 cannons that might just be seen and using carefully constructed gun carriages. What you are doing is a sensible approach. Whether to do this or construct all gun carriages will always be a dilemma but at least Euromodel do supply material for all 26 gun deck carriages. Myself - and not an intended criticism of your work - I have built all the gun carriages. Maybe not necessary but that was a personal goal I set. Building a ship is a continuum of choices.
Pete
 
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Hi Pete. I agree with your idea of making up all the gun carriages, that was my intention at first, it would have been more satisfying and it doesn't really matter how long that it takes. To make sure that it would go ok I did a dry run whilst I still had full access. I changed my mind after I found that it was difficult getting the barrels through the ports from the outside and onto the carriages with some certainty that they were well attached, the spindle through the barrel would be too wide that's why I made the cradles, plenty of contact area. I didn’t want to fully mount the canons yet as they would be vulnerable to knocks during the rest of the build.
I must say though that they are nice barrels with a finish that I like very much, not pristine but with a slight appearance of age, much better than blackened brass.

Ken
 
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Hello Everyone, Thanks again for the interest you are showing and for your kind comments and likes, it keeps me going through the more frustrating parts of the build and there are many to come, all however eventually resolved.

Today I’ll go through the deck planking and fitting, but first a bit of a rant at Euromodel.

The plans that come with this kit look extensive and they are to a point but cause much confusion. What I hadn’t noticed prior to this stage was that the plans show two versions of the same ship, one supposedly after an extensive refit, the other prior to it. The sides above the gun ports on the model are at least an inch higher on the earlier one and are of a very different design, the later one has flush decks and different fittings, the canons and layout are different as are the stern and galleries. Because I hadn’t studied the plans closely until I reached this point I thought that the difference was only showing the hammock netting in place. I’m sure that the plans tell me this but I don’t read Italian! It was however somewhat of a relief to now understand the plans more clearly. BUT, the bulwarks provided were for the later version and didn’t go anywhere near high enough, it would have been difficult at this stage to extend the side supports, the deck ply was also for the newer version. The gallery castings and canons were for the early version so you are really obliged to build that version. I have managed to eventually modify and make up the side walls successfully, in fact I enjoyed doing them once that I’d got my mind around how, I got a lot of satisfaction doing it but why would Euromodel give you parts that aren’t compatible with each other, didn’t they have someone proof build their kit.

I decided to plank the deck prior to fitting, I haven’t done this before, I always plank after the deck has been fitted but as this bit was designed to be a flush deck and sit on top of the bulkheads edges I thought that it would be easier. The first picture shows the plywood deck not quite fitting. I cut the front part off and made up a new one, I’ll fit them separately; the front wall will hide any join. I’ll be using my selection of good planks so no excuses for poor fitting and finish. The same prep as before and again a three butt change. I’ve shown the sequence so I think that no explanation is needed. I used a .6mm drill for the tree nails and again rubbed coloured filler in, I used a drill this time instead of punching a hole so that it would be neater. One of the pictures shows the filler to be quite dark, this is because I photographed before it had dried, it later looked much more subtle. I sanded and sealed ready for varnishing later, I then nailed it onto the deck, it looks as good as I’d hoped that it would. Next will be raising the unsupported sides, see you then.


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Hello Everyone. Now was the time to make the sidewalls above the deck level. As I’d mentioned I would have made supports for these had I realised the need to earlier. The accepted method of doing this from kits is to have the bulwark sides go up to the full height, then when the planking has been done snap off the tabs above the deck, simple and effective. however I was now obliged to glue the first plank straight onto the deck with no support or guide to its shape, it was going to be by eye. It went very well and turned out not to be difficult at all. For the first plank I decided to use a thicker one to give it more contact area at the base, it was about 2.5mm x 6mm. As it didn’t need to be bent around the complete bow section I managed to bend it to shape just using nippers, but as there no frames to support the shape I made sure that it fitted the hull exactly without having to hold it. I used thick cyno and activator, I carefully placed the plank at the bow and only glued about an inch and used activator on it, this makes it set instantly, I find that if you let it set over the usual 20 seconds or so whilst holding, your hand can sometimes move without you noticing and I needed it set in the exact position and perfectly upright. I was able to get it all set in position like this inch at a time. It still had no side support; I had planned for this by leaving the last of my hull second planking strips a couple of mm. below where this new plank would be, I was then able to overlap the join as I continued up with my second planking. It now felt reasonably strong and was strengthened even more when I planked the inner, again overlapping, to finish off its strength I added the internal waterways, I now had about 6mm of contact area at the base which is plenty. I was then able to make up the front wall in a similar way, I trimmed it all to the shape as per plan and gave it a good sanding. I then started on some of the detail, the bolt rings for the lower deck canons, the stairs comings and rails, the stove chimney, waist beams and their support pillars, I think that’s all, the pictures look similar but were taken at each stage and the last one shows where I ended up after adding a few of the details

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Hello Everyone. Now was the time to make the sidewalls above the deck level. As I’d mentioned I would have made supports for these had I realised the need to earlier. The accepted method of doing this from kits is to have the bulwark sides go up to the full height, then when the planking has been done snap off the tabs above the deck, simple and effective. however I was now obliged to glue the first plank straight onto the deck with no support or guide to its shape, it was going to be by eye. It went very well and turned out not to be difficult at all. For the first plank I decided to use a thicker one to give it more contact area at the base, it was about 2.5mm x 6mm. As it didn’t need to be bent around the complete bow section I managed to bend it to shape just using nippers, but as there no frames to support the shape I made sure that it fitted the hull exactly without having to hold it. I used thick cyno and activator, I carefully placed the plank at the bow and only glued about an inch and used activator on it, this makes it set instantly, I find that if you let it set over the usual 20 seconds or so whilst holding, your hand can sometimes move without you noticing and I needed it set in the exact position and perfectly upright. I was able to get it all set in position like this inch at a time. It still had no side support; I had planned for this by leaving the last of my hull second planking strips a couple of mm. below where this new plank would be, I was then able to overlap the join as I continued up with my second planking. It now felt reasonably strong and was strengthened even more when I planked the inner, again overlapping, to finish off its strength I added the internal waterways, I now had about 6mm of contact area at the base which is plenty. I was then able to make up the front wall in a similar way, I trimmed it all to the shape as per plan and gave it a good sanding. I then started on some of the detail, the bolt rings for the lower deck canons, the stairs comings and rails, the stove chimney, waist beams and their support pillars, I think that’s all, the pictures look similar but were taken at each stage and the last one shows where I ended up after adding a few of the details

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Ken, I’m wondering why the bulwarks at the bow extend out past the hull at the corners? Is this how the ship was designed? It doesn’t look right to me, especially without a deck to cover the opening.
 
Dean,
At first glance the forward part of the forecastle deck bulwark does look a little unusual but there are a number of good examples to be found in drawings of other ships where the bulwark extends out further than the curving line of the deck margin plank. Now, I am no naval architect but I can see that slight opening at the bottom in each corner could serve well to drain water away ? Just guessing but it definitely was a feature. e.g. attached drawing of the Brandenburg frigate of 1674 (Mondfeld, 1987, 95). Maybe others could suggest a better rationale than mine ? This concept certainly makes the planking a little more tricky.
Pete
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Hi all. I mentioned using cyno activator in my last post, I have been asked to explain its properties as not everyone here has used it. It is usually bought in aerosol form but small pump action bottles are available. It is used to instantly harden cyno, and I mean instant. You can either apply cyno to one side of the joint and a shot of activator to the other, when they meet ZAP! it’s stuck so be careful that the part is in the right place. The other way to use it is one that I prefer is to put cyno on, place the part then give the area a quick spray, no need to wet the area just a slight mist usually does. I doesn’t give off any odour, leave a stain or effect the surface, it does however leave a very feint almost translucent surface to any visible cyno so keep the application neat. Its only really useful on thick cyno, the thinner ones set quickly anyway. I use it when I need to hold a piece in place by hand to set. Thick cyno takes about 30 secs to set and it’s often difficult to hold your hand dead steady for that length of time if it’s not supported and your part can end up not exactly as you had intended. My side wall was a part in question, it needed to match the level of the outer planking with no support, even .5mm out would have given my second planking a ridge so even that small amount of movement wasn’t acceptable. I’ve used it on my Amerigo to set the hatches in an open position, then use false supports for appearance and to attach open gun port lids at the correct angle. Useful stuff that earns its place amongst my kit.
 
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Hello, Thanks Pete, you've explained the design better than I could have done, I can only add to it by showing how it is depicted on my plan.

This is a good time to add that I have criticized Euromodel where I felt that it was justified but now I will hand them a compliment. I think that they are one of the only European manufacturers that offer ships of a different variety than the same popular ones offered by others, Victory, Bounty, Surprise etc. and the Ajax, an early frigate example shows this, that is probably why they remain a smaller player in the market, rather like a boutique brand, but being small their kits are rather expensive.

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Hello everyone. I am going to start a build log of HMS Ajax, a 38 gun frigate 1:74 scale by Euromodel.

I am currently doing a log of my Amati Riva build and I’m about a week or two from finishing, so this is just an introduction for now.

Euromodel have a slightly different approach to producing kits, they are halfway between a full on kit and a scratch build, they are renowned for being somewhat difficult to build for the less experienced, they are also thought to be very overpriced for what you get which I would agree with. You get pre cut frames, keel, decks and a stem. There are no CNC or laser cut parts, these are hand cut and you need to finish them off using the plans. For the rest of the wooden parts there is a fair amount of wood but you have to cut them out yourself using the plan. There is no photo etch, the only detailing comes from castings of the rear windows and galleries, anything else that you need you do yourself. You do get all the usual fittings, cannons, blocks, etc all good quality, and some very nice flags. The plans though are superb and are on very good quality paper, there are eleven sheets all at 1:1 scale well drawn and almost art in itself with every possible measurement that you could need or imagine. The problem with the plans for my level of experience is that they were drawn up to be used for scratch building, there is no reference at all to the kit and the two differ. There is no guide as to how you make up parts, not even the hull nor is there any sort of sequence given, just a very detailed two dimensional plan of what looks like the real ship. The instructions are a photo copy of hand typed notes, a sheet and a half of A4 which tell you nothing.

With all these negatives you may well ask why I chose this kit to do. I read a ship modelling book by Keith Jullier and was very impressed with his build of the Royal William, so much so that I bought the kit. I found ongoing logs of builds on MSW. So I started one of my own on that site, in doing so I thankfully receive all the help that I needed to complete mine, I think to a fairly high standard. It is shown here in the completed models section. Although it was very difficult and the kit had serious shortcomings it is to date the most enjoyable model that I have built and the one that has given me the most satisfaction. A few weeks ago I saw this kit of the Ajax on Ebay, remembering the pleasure that the last Euromodel gave me I decided that I was going to buy it, it went for £160 which included the postage, a bargain so a no brainer for me. When it arrived it was perfect, everything still sealed and all untouched so delighted. It appears to be at least thirty years old so I'll keep my fingers crossed as to the condition of the wood, but so far so good.

Ken

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iI build such a ship in 1994- here too there was a lot to build from scats I did it with below the gundeck fully filled- nor only stern and Bow- when sanded a very smooth hull. Gunport you had to do your selves as well the Galleries, Kitchen etc. Still have Sdrawyngs plans. In the Net yhere is a total build of another Spanish Fregat -11 in Total -which you can download and use as a guideline if NOT JUST ASK
 
iI build such a ship in 1994- here too there was a lot to build from scats I did it with below the gundeck fully filled- nor only stern and Bow- when sanded a very smooth hull. Gunport you had to do your selves as well the Galleries, Kitchen etc. Still have Sdrawyngs plans. In the Net yhere is a total build of another Spanish Fregat -11 in Total -which you can download and use as a guideline if NOT JUST ASK
As usual, I come in Late. When I first saw your message. I thought it was a new Build, then I found it that the Hull and Decks are done. Looks quite good, although the 1Th planking could be a little Better
I have attached the other Spanish Fregat -build more and less at the same timi-early 1990. just make the ikon bigger and click then the whole build comes
The only thing that worries me is there is any Royalties. I will let the Management decide.
 

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  • Fragata siglo XVIII - Paso a Paso.pdf
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As usual, I come in Late. When I first saw your message. I thought it was a new Build, then I found it that the Hull and Decks are done. Looks quite good, although the 1Th planking could be a little Better
I have attached the other Spanish Fregat -build more and less at the same timi-early 1990. just make the ikon bigger and click then the whole build comes
The only thing that worries me is there is any Royalties. I will let the Management decide.
Hi El Capi, That was very thoughtful of you to send me this, I find it interesting and it will probably be helpful.
Thank you.
 
Hello, Thanks Pete, you've explained the design better than I could have done, I can only add to it by showing how it is depicted on my plan.

This is a good time to add that I have criticized Euromodel where I felt that it was justified but now I will hand them a compliment. I think that they are one of the only European manufacturers that offer ships of a different variety than the same popular ones offered by others, Victory, Bounty, Surprise etc. and the Ajax, an early frigate example shows this, that is probably why they remain a smaller player in the market, rather like a boutique brand, but being small their kits are rather expensive.

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Well it’s an odd design, but it looks like that is how the ship was built. From a structural stand point, it would have been better to have the corners supported by stanchions. But obviously they were not concerned about that back then.
 
Well it’s an odd design, but it looks like that is how the ship was built. From a structural stand point, it would have been better to have the corners supported by stanchions. But obviously they were not concerned about that back then.
Hi Dean, I’m with you on this one, I’m not knowledgeable on these things, only what I have learned from kit plans. I was very tempted to go it my way and do that section in a more aesthetic way as I saw it. However I resisted that temptation and did it according to the plan although it looked odd at the time. As you know I’m somewhat ahead of my log with the build and am almost done with that area. There are six stantions supporting the front wall and with the head rails and cathead it looks right, in fact it would have looked wrong had I gone with my instincts instead of the plan. What do I know!
 
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After studying this, it appears there may have been some logic in play. It seems everything tied into the catheads. However they have to support the weight of the anchors. Given their location, you can see there is a moment arm (which is normal) stress wise. Think pry bar! But ideally from an Engineering stand point, you want more length supported than unsupported. This lessons the tension load on the bolts holding the end (inboard). Because more of the cat head is hanging over the edge of the hull, being unsupported. This would become a load multiplier (think pry bar). But with the railings tying into the catheads, that moves the unsupported length, making it less. And looking at the drawing appears to at least have reduced it to a 1 to 1 ratio, having equal lengths on both sides. So perhaps this design is to lesson the load on the catheads?
In conclusion, if I designed it, I would have moved the corners back and had more of the catheads length inboard than outboard, to lesson the moment. But shipwrights may not have had much Engineering background?
In the end, the inclusion of the catheads ties everything together, making more sense. ;)
 
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After studying this, it appears there may have been some logic in play. It seems everything tied into the catheads. However they have to support the weight of the anchors. Given their location, you can see there is a moment arm (which is normal) stress wise. Think pry bar! But ideally from an Engineering stand point, you want more length supported than unsupported. This lessons the tension load on the bolts holding the end (inboard). Because more of the cat head is hanging over the edge of the hull, being unsupported. This would become a load multiplier (think pry bar). But with the railings tying into the catheads, that moves the unsupported length, making it less. And looking at the drawing appears to at least have reduced it to a 1 to 1 ratio, having equal lengths on both sides. So perhaps this design is to lesson the load on the catheads?
In conclusion, if I designed it, I would have moved the corners back and had more of the catheads length inboard than outboard, to lesson the moment. But shipwrights may not have had much Engineering background?
In the end, the inclusion of the catheads ties everything together, making more sense. ;)
Hi, Dean. Who said ship building wasn’t interesting, your reply shows that that there is much more to development and design with regards to function than one cold have imagined
 
Hi, Dean. Who said ship building wasn’t interesting, your reply shows that that there is much more to development and design with regards to function than one cold have imagined
You bet Ken. They were actually very well designed! Look at the moment being applied to the mast through the wind in the sail. It’s that force x distance, thus the higher up the sail and the more area of the sail, the more force being applied to break the mast! But that load is being reduced with the shroud lines, and by the diameter of the mast, and finally by the addition of wooldings to strengthen the mast. The more you look at them, the more you see the logic behind them. ;)
 
Hi, Dean. Who said ship building wasn’t interesting, your reply shows that that there is much more to development and design with regards to function than one cold have imagined
Hi. Just inform all, that ship-and the one build erly90, are a total 100 % scratch build. It got via monthly magazine in Spain about Modelling in general, plastic, wood, painting wit bruce and spray came over 4 Years and ended up with 4 Book in A$ format each boog were going up in difficulties. This ship came as the maximum difficulties. There was help every month of this build, and still have the originals Plans, starting after all those Yearsopen up where it is folded. will have to find a special copy shop, to get new ones. The one I build was sleight different from changing a lot of parts. The Galleries are really hand build.. The most difficult one was carving on the main gallery
 
Hi, Dean. Who said ship building wasn’t interesting, your reply shows that that there is much more to development and design with regards to function than one cold have imagined
Hi. Just inform all, that ship-and the one build erly90, are a total 100 % scratch build. It got via monthly magazine in Spain about Modelling in general, plastic, wood, painting wit bruce and spray came over 4 Years and ended up with 4 Book in A$ format each boog were going up in difficulties. This ship came as the maximum difficulties. There was help every month of this build, and still have the originals Plans, starting after all those Yearsopen up where it is folded. will have to find a special copy shop, to get new ones. The one I build was sleight different from changing a lot of parts. The Galleries are really hand build.. The most difficult one was carving on the main gallery
 
Hello Everyone. Here we go again, still catching up on my build. Today’s pictures show the rudder made up, the hinges are rather chunky and not really to scale. They are cast from a soft metal with the bolts in place and not the usual thin brass, but I really like them, they have a sort of character, larger than life, I have plenty of brass ones but I didn’t want to replace these, just a personal preference of how I want things to look, the port lid hinges are the same and I’ll be keeping them as well.

I cut out the opening for the guns along the whole of the upper deck, twelve in all. I lined them with strip then added the capping rail and gave it all a good sanding to finish off. It doesn’t sound much when I write it down but it all amounted to quite a bit of work but is shaping up nicely.



Thanks for following

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