i like the aussie accent ,especialy the girls....
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Two Dogs.... | Miscellaneous | Jokes2go
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Here we go
It will be a little slower whilst I inventory & store suff then on with the build as per the instruction order.
It will be a little slower whilst I inventory & store suff then on with the build as per the instruction order.
OMG, still trying catch my breath from laughing so hard at “two dogs .....”Two Dogs.... | Miscellaneous | Jokes2go
Jan
dear Paul
your movie's are great, keep on
Yes they truely are! - but I am afraid Paul will have to whipe this log again, he just opened the Box and we are in the middle of Page 2 already
HI all no I will not reset. 
I have just inventoried everything and its all there + barrels + cabins. There are some bits ( wood cutouts) that are not listed but I assume they will get resolved as we go along.
I have volunteered to translate the "English translation instructions" in the manual to " English as used" in this log for each entry.
I have asked Zoly to speak to Trident, to see if I can get an editable soft copy to update for them to include with the kits. I expect that this will take some time as we work through the build. I suspect that I will not be able to distribute it in an editable form, but with luck may be able to make it a PDF for SOS Group users pending Trident and SOS approval and any copyright issues.
Anyway we will see.
With out further a due here is entry 1.
Pre Preparation Activities:
To make this model you should plan in advance.
To most skilled modellers this is a regular habit they have gotten into
However even those with minor skills can successfully build this model as long as they follow and understand the information provided in this kit
The designers of this kit have verified all they steps needed. There are lot of steps and each must be strictly followed .
A wrong step can have significant impact to the build process and not allow further steps to proceed smoothly
Due to a significant amount of sanding involved in the build, it is suggested that this be done in a well ventilated area and that appropriate protective equipment be worn.
Before removing any parts ,mark parts with their id with a pencil.
Cut the part away from the supplied timber by cutting though the waste wood around the part and then trimming away remaining waste.
Please feel free to update/ contribute any translation I do so, we can all get the best set of instructions for both our members and any future buyers.
I will collate and amend were necessary ( this group process is awesome)
See you soon.
I have just inventoried everything and its all there + barrels + cabins. There are some bits ( wood cutouts) that are not listed but I assume they will get resolved as we go along.
I have volunteered to translate the "English translation instructions" in the manual to " English as used" in this log for each entry.
I have asked Zoly to speak to Trident, to see if I can get an editable soft copy to update for them to include with the kits. I expect that this will take some time as we work through the build. I suspect that I will not be able to distribute it in an editable form, but with luck may be able to make it a PDF for SOS Group users pending Trident and SOS approval and any copyright issues.
Anyway we will see.
With out further a due here is entry 1.
Pre Preparation Activities:
To make this model you should plan in advance.
To most skilled modellers this is a regular habit they have gotten into
However even those with minor skills can successfully build this model as long as they follow and understand the information provided in this kit
The designers of this kit have verified all they steps needed. There are lot of steps and each must be strictly followed .
A wrong step can have significant impact to the build process and not allow further steps to proceed smoothly
Due to a significant amount of sanding involved in the build, it is suggested that this be done in a well ventilated area and that appropriate protective equipment be worn.
Before removing any parts ,mark parts with their id with a pencil.
Cut the part away from the supplied timber by cutting though the waste wood around the part and then trimming away remaining waste.
Please feel free to update/ contribute any translation I do so, we can all get the best set of instructions for both our members and any future buyers.
I will collate and amend were necessary ( this group process is awesome)
See you soon.
great idea Paul!
I did an inventory in Excel to help me find all of the parts spread over the many boards.
It is not fully completed by now, since there are quite some pages in my manual I can't read ... seems the printer went out of toner, I hope I'll get a PDF or similar ...
but the "wood" part should be finished for the moment - you (all) can use/edit it if you find it usefull!
I did an inventory in Excel to help me find all of the parts spread over the many boards.
It is not fully completed by now, since there are quite some pages in my manual I can't read ... seems the printer went out of toner, I hope I'll get a PDF or similar ...
but the "wood" part should be finished for the moment - you (all) can use/edit it if you find it usefull!
Very good idea - if the table and information are complete I suggest to make also a copy of this list to the "Project Main Support Page" of this group build. So it will be easier to find for all other modelers building this kit. Great
And so we continue:
The berth:
If you read the manual, it starts with the Ribs, then the Keel, then the Berth and finally the assembly.
As everyone has done the Berth, I figured I might as well start there as well. Besides it gets rid of most of the heavy MDF in the box.
I has some issues as you will see, specifically on one sheet of parts , the laser did not cut all the way through. It took 5 No 11 blades and a lot of swearing to get the parts out. As a result I noticed that the MDF had far less resilience that that is in Bunnings Aus and easily tore like paper if forced.
You will also get black and dusty hands from the char. The char also smells strong when in contact with the PVA. There is a note in the manual that some of the char may need to be covered with cling film whilst laying ship parts and may mark the model. I chose to lightly sand off the char where applicable and may seal the mdf with sealer before fitting the hull sections. This will also prevent pva from sticking the hull to the berth.
Sp here are the first two parts of the Birth build. ( sorry for the wavy lines but LED lights and older camcorders don't mix well)
The berth:
If you read the manual, it starts with the Ribs, then the Keel, then the Berth and finally the assembly.
As everyone has done the Berth, I figured I might as well start there as well. Besides it gets rid of most of the heavy MDF in the box.
I has some issues as you will see, specifically on one sheet of parts , the laser did not cut all the way through. It took 5 No 11 blades and a lot of swearing to get the parts out. As a result I noticed that the MDF had far less resilience that that is in Bunnings Aus and easily tore like paper if forced.
You will also get black and dusty hands from the char. The char also smells strong when in contact with the PVA. There is a note in the manual that some of the char may need to be covered with cling film whilst laying ship parts and may mark the model. I chose to lightly sand off the char where applicable and may seal the mdf with sealer before fitting the hull sections. This will also prevent pva from sticking the hull to the berth.
Sp here are the first two parts of the Birth build. ( sorry for the wavy lines but LED lights and older camcorders don't mix well)
The final part of the Berth
it;s finally done after 8 hours of fiddly sanding to remove the char in the rib holders ( 4 x 77 slots). I used sanding twigs to remove the char with no damage to the kit, but its a slow process and needs a lot of attention.
All in all I am very happy with how the berth turns out. It is fairly rigid. My only recommendation is that the base should be a bit more solid as it is flexible at its current thickness and mine was slightly warped.( There is a suggestion that flight and crossing the equator to go down under warps things ( hence our sense of humor), but who knows, it could b the other way around!)
Here is the final video in the Berth series.. Next the KEEL!
it;s finally done after 8 hours of fiddly sanding to remove the char in the rib holders ( 4 x 77 slots). I used sanding twigs to remove the char with no damage to the kit, but its a slow process and needs a lot of attention.DuraSand Sanding Twigs, Hobby Craft and Models, Mixed Grit Bulk Discounts (5 Pack) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement
DuraSand Sanding Twigs, Hobby Craft and Models, Mixed Grit Bulk Discounts (5 Pack) : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement
www.amazon.com.au
All in all I am very happy with how the berth turns out. It is fairly rigid. My only recommendation is that the base should be a bit more solid as it is flexible at its current thickness and mine was slightly warped.( There is a suggestion that flight and crossing the equator to go down under warps things ( hence our sense of humor), but who knows, it could b the other way around!)
Here is the final video in the Berth series.. Next the KEEL!
And here we go again.
This is the assembly of the main keel. The process is very straight forward and with the template it is very simple to assemble correctly. Take your time and follow the process in the manual in order !
This is the assembly of the main keel. The process is very straight forward and with the template it is very simple to assemble correctly. Take your time and follow the process in the manual in order !
The Keel continues.
The manual leaves out important information about the sanding templates. This was resolved by looking at DanielW log issues and confirming the shapes in the birth fixtures. I will update the manual where appropriate to fix this confusion.
The manual leaves out important information about the sanding templates. This was resolved by looking at DanielW log issues and confirming the shapes in the birth fixtures. I will update the manual where appropriate to fix this confusion.
Last edited:
I realy love your Video-Log!
Thanks a lot Paul!
Thanks a lot Paul!
Hello Paul, thank you very much for your V-Log. While watching the assembly of your keel I noticed the missing Rabbet strip. In figure 2.4 a few Chinese Letters are not translated and I could not interpret it yet. How did you solve this? You have now assembled the keel. Do you mill the Rabbet afterwards or have you forgotten it?
Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the information.
Tks all for the likes , I really appreciate it.
It gives me something to do whilst the glue dries and also forces me to take my time and fit & re fit ( sand, shape) parts so that it looks easy ( just joking - the birth has to be sanded quite a bit in the holding joints to allow the keel to sit firmly, but not forced. ). There are lots of cuts, mistakes & swearing between takes,
If I can benefit anyone,its all worth it. Thats what a group build and a forum is all about
The Rabbet line is there, however I decided to us a slight 45 deg angle sand along the entire lower lower section lip. This allowed me to represent the rabbet, but not lower the structural integrity of the keel. at 5mm, creating a 1-1.5mm Rabbet will leave me with just 2 -3 mm for the connection between the lower and upper keel joins.
As this is my first POF and the keel is not pinned together and is fragile anyway, I decided that the risk was not worth it.
I provided a representational .5 deep x 1mm wide channel that is clearly visible on the entire length of keel on both sides , but does not show on the video well. See below.
It gives me something to do whilst the glue dries and also forces me to take my time and fit & re fit ( sand, shape) parts so that it looks easy ( just joking - the birth has to be sanded quite a bit in the holding joints to allow the keel to sit firmly, but not forced. ). There are lots of cuts, mistakes & swearing between takes,
If I can benefit anyone,its all worth it. Thats what a group build and a forum is all about
The Rabbet line is there, however I decided to us a slight 45 deg angle sand along the entire lower lower section lip. This allowed me to represent the rabbet, but not lower the structural integrity of the keel. at 5mm, creating a 1-1.5mm Rabbet will leave me with just 2 -3 mm for the connection between the lower and upper keel joins.
As this is my first POF and the keel is not pinned together and is fragile anyway, I decided that the risk was not worth it.
I provided a representational .5 deep x 1mm wide channel that is clearly visible on the entire length of keel on both sides , but does not show on the video well. See below.
The Keel she's done!
Here's the last Video of the keel for a while.
It's been a real pleasure so for to do this kit.
The tools used so far:
( No power tools were harmed in the making of this VLog.)
Sandpaper
Xacto knife & no 11 blade(s...)
Dental pick to remove sawdust
Pencil
Square & flat mini file
PVA glue
Vernier to measure keel taper. ( only hi tech tool used)
and
Several Litres of coffee!
and a few damaged brain cells
Amazing that it took less tools than used on a POB. Just goes to show the thought put into the kit. Well done Trident!
Next 76 Ribs ( hah!) and no I'm not doing 76 videos ( God Help us if I did!)
See you soon.
Here's the last Video of the keel for a while.
It's been a real pleasure so for to do this kit.
The tools used so far:
( No power tools were harmed in the making of this VLog.)
Sandpaper
Xacto knife & no 11 blade(s...)
Dental pick to remove sawdust
Pencil
Square & flat mini file
PVA glue
Vernier to measure keel taper. ( only hi tech tool used)
and
Several Litres of coffee!
and a few damaged brain cells
Amazing that it took less tools than used on a POB. Just goes to show the thought put into the kit. Well done Trident!
Next 76 Ribs ( hah!) and no I'm not doing 76 videos ( God Help us if I did!)
See you soon.
I suffer from my music and now its your turn
Many thanks to all who contributed on this one: DanielA, JognA & JollyRoger and anyone else I have forgotten at midnight.
Many thanks to all who contributed on this one: DanielA, JognA & JollyRoger and anyone else I have forgotten at midnight.
Hello Paul,
it has become a great video again, thank you very much!
Are you planning to bolt the frames/ ribs? On this scale, bolts would be a good idea, especially if you don't have to plank the hull. I am currently thinking about how far I can or want to go in the implementation.
it has become a great video again, thank you very much!
Are you planning to bolt the frames/ ribs? On this scale, bolts would be a good idea, especially if you don't have to plank the hull. I am currently thinking about how far I can or want to go in the implementation.